Rear Disc Bolts - Any tips for extracting?

[Gerbs]

Thanks for all the wisdom guys.
I've held a blowtorch over the flange for a few minutes at a time and sprayed some PB Blaster in to try and get some movement and still nothing.
I've heated the flange and then used an ice spray on the bolt and still nothing.
I've snapped 2 long reach bits and twisted 2 smaller ones on extensions. I have another set on order which should arrive this evening.
My next attack plan is to get a bolt into the flange and another bolt in through the disc so I can rotate them in opposite directions to try and get some more movement.

 

[Joepi5]

Once had a screw really tight in an engine casing (bolt that held the stator secure). Tried the same steps you have done upto this point. What did the trick for was was drilling the head of off the bolt, and use vice grips on the little stub that was left behind. Because the threads didn't have a clamping load anymore they came out, with more heat application.

This bolt was also secured with ore applied permanent Loctite, but (as it was internal in the engine) corrosion free.
I was ready to use a helicoil there if I wouldn't have gotten it out. I would want to suggest to have one ready for when the bolt does get removed.

 

[Gerbs]

Once had a screw really tight in an engine casing (bolt that held the stator secure). Tried the same steps you have done upto this point. What did the trick for was was drilling the head of off the bolt, and use vice grips on the little stub that was left behind. Because the threads didn't have a clamping load anymore they came out, with more heat application.

This bolt was also secured with ore applied permanent Loctite, but (as it was internal in the engine) corrosion free.
I was ready to use a helicoil there if I wouldn't have gotten it out. I would want to suggest to have one ready for when the bolt does get removed.

I’ve thought about drilling it out but due to the (ridiculous) access space it would be very difficult to work with once the head is removed.

 

[Joepi5]

I’ve thought about drilling it out but due to the (ridiculous) access space it would be very difficult to work with once the head is removed.

Drill the complete thing out from the wheel side towards the FD and helicoil it. Should be enough room from that direction, but then maybe as a last resort.

 

[zerax9]

Drill the complete thing out from the wheel side towards the FD and helicoil it. Should be enough room from that direction, but then maybe as a last resort.

Personally... I'd prefer a "time sert" to a helicoil in that situation... if possible.

 

[Burridge01]

This is what you want. It’s near the end of its working life now. But I have been using it for 20 years

View attachment 526674

Exactly,right tool for the job.That erm,,heavy duty torx looked like something out of a Milwaukee box..

 

[Gerbs]

Exactly,right tool for the job.That erm,,heavy duty torx looked like something out of a Milwaukee box..

it very nearly is out of a Milwaukee box. I’m fairly limited with options here in Ireland.
Also…is Milwaukee not a decent brand of tools?

 

[steadysteve]

I had similar issues on an RT disc.

Declared victory after cutting the brake disc off so that I could cut some flats onto the head of the bolt and get a normal spanner on it.
Heat was supplied by a hot air paint stripper, taking care to not get heat directly onto the wheel itself. I think I used a piece of old tin to act as a shield to concentrate the heat onto the bolt head and prevent the paint coming off the wheel.
Hot air gun gets it hot enough so that you can’t touch it worth out saying “shit, that’s hot”
I’m not suggesting a flame is wrong but I ain’t got one and probably wouldn’t have used one on my own bike anyway.
You’ll be needing some thread taps to chase the thread through before fitting new studs.
Good luck.

 

[Burridge01]

it very nearly is out of a Milwaukee box. I’m fairly limited with options here in Ireland.
Also…is Milwaukee not a decent brand of tools?

Gerbs,those "Milwaukee bits" aren't for this application.As Steptoe posted earlier,you need meater gear.
My weapons of choice would be these
Halfords Advanced-Life time guarantee-Get a trade card(piece of piss to get)Always done deals on multi buys etc.

Meater

Had this so long,I have no memory of it's origin

As most on here,I'm learning all the time,at home wannabe grease monkey.
Tools are what father's day,Christmas, birthdays are for,get with the tool pornAND NEVER LEND ANYTHING TO ANYONE-NO EXCEPTIONS.

 

[MotoRevive]

Personally... I'd prefer a "time sert" to a helicoil in that situation... if possible.

A helicoil is actually stronger than a timesert in torque tests. A timesert is just less likely to wind out. They suffer fools better...
But neither should ever wind out of correctly installed.

Both are far stronger than the parent material.