Rear pads from new to nothing in 80 miles!!!

rup5555555

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Now please don't all jump tp the obvious conclusion - I was not unwittingly dragging the rear brake - honest governor!

My new rear pads went down to the metal in the miles from London to Brighton and back !! :(

What can cause this? The rear wheel spins freely when the bike is on the centre stand with or without the engine running. Testing the brake on the centre stand produces expected results i.e. the wheel spins freely after releasing the brake. There is no brake errors.

Bad pads?

I have just had the brake fuild changed by Jap and German and they pressure tested it on the computer afterwards. They seem to think it was bad pads.

Any ideas?:confused:
 
Do the pistons move in and out freely?

Is the securing pin badly worn? Is the pin under the boot ok?

Or the pads were crap. Try http://www.gsshop.biz - the ferodo pads they sell are great on my 1200.... :thumb
 
Might sound stupid BUT !!
Maybe someone stole your new pads while you were stopped eating ice cream in Brighton.


:hide
 
You know, it did cross my mind that someone may have nicked the pads, ha ha!

The guide pin is worn - yes, but how would this result in the pads disappearing?

The pistons run freely enough.

The securing pin looks ok but I can replace it.

I have put some of the Ferodo Platiums on now and we'll see how we go... :D
 
I remain convinced that about 5 years ago BMW produced a load of rear pads made out of cheese - we had several people, me included, who needed rear pads on my Baltic States trip despite the pads being in good nick at the start of the trip.

The replacement pads I bought from BMW dealer in Warsaw are still in the bike 5 years on!

Maybe you got a set of the cheese pads?

:confused:

Greg
 
There's something strange going on as the disk would have got red hot if the brakes had been on hard enough for normal pads to wear that fast. Bit of serious saftey issue if the pads are at fault I would have thought.

Another vote for ferodo platinums. They finally cured the fast wear (15k per set) on my rear brake
 
Good point about the discs getting red hot, I will check my rear discs against the fronts after a 10 min ride without much braking.

PS Can anyone recommend the grease to use for the guide pins under the rubber boots?

Also does anyone sell replacement guide pins? Looks like BMW want to sell me a whole new caliper...
 
Well, it looks like it is the guide pins getting stuck in the guide holes. I say this because after 15 miles not using the rear brake (apart from the linking from the front) on new pads the rear disc and capiler is very very hot AND 1/3 of the inner pad has been worn - the outerpad is fine.

This leads me to the conclusion it is guide pins because if the pistons were sticking then the outer pad would wear first, right? As the inner pad is wearing then I assume it is getting stuck on the disc and not releasing on the pins when I release the brake.

I have attached photos of the pins, the front pin is badly pitted and corroded, can it be slavaged? Will rubbing smooth with wet and dry paper do the job? Does it matter if the pin has some play in hole as long as it runs smoothly? What about the guide holes? Do they wear as well.

Thanks in advance :blast
 

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In the top picture there's damage to the caliper.

What's caused this? Have you had something stuck in there? Road debris?

Or just ham fisted spannering :D

Perhaps the pin/holder is slightly bent, not allowing free travel (I remember earlier you were having trouble sliding the caliper off the holder). Are the pins still parallel to each other?

Can someone confirm that the pins are slightly "triangular" by design?
 
The damage was caused by the garage trying to get the caliper apart, they tell me it is just superficial....

I can get a caliper from a non-ABS model, mine is an ABS model - does anyone know if it will fit?

Also, is Optimoly a good paste to use on the pins?

Thanks
 
Not much lubricant on that unless you cleaned it off??

Yes just use emery and just remove any humps and bumps so you have a smooth pin and then use Rubber grease (Fuchs Silkolene Renolit) or good old vaseline
Optimoly and other greases get sticky after a short time and will add to friction istead of easing it

The test is to put it back together and test it by checking the calliper slides freely on the mounting bracket with no stress and no pads Then try with pads??

Then mount it on the rear drive and pressurise the brake let it sit a few seconds and then see if moves freely back on it's own I usually just lean my boot gently and push lightly and you can feel it move it should be good


Good Luck!
 
Thanks Jaythro, just the advice I needed

The front pin is very pitted so I have just purchased a second hand unit in replacement :D
 
The thing was well seized, I gave them the go ahead to do whatever it took. They did a great job, got it apart. The BMW stealer would not of touched it. I was happy with the job. :thumb2
 
Well, i've found something interesting today that maybe the cause of a lot of premature rear brake wear bikes and servo high pressure fault readings on both 1150 and 1200 servo models.


I'll do a post with pictures later :thumb
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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