Rear Shock Noise.

[Big E]

I have just noticed a noise coming from my rear shock absorber. The noise happens when I lift my body weight off the seat and allow the bike to lift up; I get a similar noise when I sit back down onto the seat.

Has my rear shock failed?

1150 GSA 24k

 

[Grizzly]

Paralever Pivot Bearings?

Hi Big E,
Only time I've had a noise in the circumstances you quote was when the paralever pivot bearings in front of the bevel box were knackered and you got a sort of "creaking" noise as you moved up & down on the back suspension.

Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[MattW]

Hi Big E,
Only time I've had a noise in the circumstances you quote was when the paralever pivot bearings in front of the bevel box were knackered and you got a sort of "creaking" noise as you moved up & down on the back suspension.

Cheers......................Grizzly

+1
Just changed mine (along with the gearbox output seal) - properly goosed:

As was one of the pivot pins:

 

[ianboydsnr]

I have just noticed a noise coming from my rear shock absorber. The noise happens when I lift my body weight off the seat and allow the bike to lift up; I get a similar noise when I sit back down onto the seat.

Has my rear shock failed?

1150 GSA 24k

Unlikely at 24k, is it working ok, is it leaking, check the paralever bearings, to see if theres any play

 

[vilguy]

you havent said what kind of noise it is mate. Could be anything.

If its a swishy noise its just the damping in the shock

 

[seamus1504]

Same think happened to mine awhile back in Italy thought it was the rear spring, but turned out to be the paralever bearings !!
Seamus

 

[Big E]

Noise !!!!

Same think happened to mine awhile back in Italy thought it was the rear spring, but turned out to be the paralever bearings !!
Seamus

Replaced the paralever bearing today but still getting this noise.

If the driveshaft joint splines do not have enough grease on them would this make a noise as the joint moves in and out of the drive shaft?

The noise happens when the bike moves up and down.

 

[MattW]

I wouldn't have thought the drive shaft splines would clunk like that (I assume you took a look at the spline condition when you removed the FD to do the bearings?).

Have you checked the shock bushings and mounts?
Torque arm bushings?

 

[Stewart H]

Why not take the rear shock off,then raise and lower the rear wheel to see if it makes the noise ? I was thinking of a fulcrum and a lever under the rear wheel, you could move the whole back end up and down at will, you could also inspect the shock mountings at the same time.
Stewart

 

[Tsiklonaut]

I'd give 70% probability: swingarm bearings. They're close to the rear shock thus you can confuse the sound.

Dirt penetrates the swingarm bearings in time. Check 'em, replace 'em, if necessary. I did mine before the big trip - an easy jobby - kick the old ones out with the correct radius hex key using long rod, I took the swingarm to +100C degree sauna with me in the freezing Estonian winter (you can use heat gun as a replacement ), throw the new bearings into the -15C snow outside (you can use deep freezer as a replacement ) and they go on w/o probs. Have a decent shot of cold vodka as a reward. Sorted.

Cheers, Margus

 

[MattW]

Like Margus says, if the swingam bearings need changing, it's just as simple as the paralever bearings (although you'll have to take the paralever pinions out again to get the swingarm off ).

If, like me, it's the second time you've taken the swingarm off in two weeks you'll regret using loctite 2701 and will use 243 next time

 

[Carl]

If, like me, it's the second time you've taken the swingarm off in two weeks you'll regret using loctite 2701 and will use 243 next time

Matt, did you loctite the paralever pivot pins as well? I've never bothered, and not had one come loose yet... plus it makes nipping up the adjustable one just a 5 minute job through the spokes.

 

[MattW]

Matt, did you loctite the paralever pivot pins as well? I've never bothered, and not had one come loose yet... plus it makes nipping up the adjustable one just a 5 minute job through the spokes.

Yep - loctited the fixed and adjustable pins and locknuts. Probably overkill, but not having the special tool I was concerned about the adjustable pins moving when I torqued up the locknuts (I left the adjustable pin loctite harden overnight before doing the locknuts). First time round I used loctite 2701 as the book says. This worked fine until I discovered the gearbox output seal was still leaking and I had to take it all apart again. The new 2701 was a complete sod - both to heat and remove the pins and then to clean off (much harder than the original BMW stuff). I've just put it all back together but using ordinary blue loctite 243

 

[davegs]

Locktite

I've always used blue locktite no probs ever (yet!) and it comes off easy after heating it up.
Dave gs.

 

[Big E]

NOISE

Why not take the rear shock off,then raise and lower the rear wheel to see if it makes the noise ? I was thinking of a fulcrum and a lever under the rear wheel, you could move the whole back end up and down at will, you could also inspect the shock mountings at the same time.
Stewart

We have done exactly this and the noise could not be heard from the swing arm.

I have inspected the rear shock and it looks fine, no leakage and the bike moves up and down on the shock with no problem.

I will just have to live with a noisy rear shock; will this cause me any major problems?