Rear Shock

[Udders]

I've removed my rear shock on my 2002 1150 GS to have it reworked by MCT Suspension. Now, do I put new bushes in the top and bottom while its off AND do I put a brand new bottom shock mount bolt in or reuse the old one? The bikes done 24,000 miles and the bushes look ok but not sure if I should renew them?

 

[Roadcaptain]

new bolt

 

[Cortina]

new bolt

Because ..... ??

 

[Madmountainman]

Whoever's refurbing your shock should also change the bushes if they need doing, that's all part of a shock service. If you can find a nice shiny stainless bolt that can take the loading, then change that too. If not, stick with the original but put some antisieze on or something to prevent it from getting stuck. I helped a mate do his F650 t'other day and the lower mount bolt needed a big bar to get it spinning. BMW really ought to lube their threads on the bikes they build.

 

[MattW]

I've always reused both the top and bottom shock bolts (if you're going to change the bottom bolt, why wouldn't you change the top one?) With the number of times I've had the shock on and off recently, it'd have cost as much as the shock - well perhaps not, but you get the idea...

As long as they're visibly free of defects, I see no reason why they shouldn't be reused. They're a high tensile bolt - whatever you do, don't put some piece of cheese stainless bolt in there. Anti seize isn't necessarily a good idea - you don't want them working loose. I always use blue loctite on them - stops them seizing and also stops them coming undone .

Regarding anti-sieze - the same with wheel studs - why the bloody hell do people lather them in copperslip?!

Perhaps if I was about to go round the world off road, I'd change the shock bolts for peace of mind (and take a spare - top and bottom are the same bolt on my 1100)...

 

[The Grey One]

Regarding anti-sieze - the same with wheel studs - why the bloody hell do people lather them in copperslip?!

...

I spent more than 35 years working on cars ( or in later years overseeing the work) we always put a little copperslip in the bolts or studs. If correctly tightened there is no risk of them coming undone. There is also little risk of seizure and sheered off fixings that way.

John

 

[Cortina]

I spent more than 35 years working on cars ( or in later years overseeing the work) we always put a little copperslip in the bolts or studs. If correctly tightened there is no risk of them coming undone. There is also little risk of seizure and sheered off fixings that way.

John

This is my method too ..... not too much , and use the torque wrench !!
The bolts in question are not stretch bolts , the load on them is shear ... so why would you want to change them ??

 

[monkeyboy]

Regarding anti-sieze - the same with wheel studs - why the bloody hell do people lather them in copperslip?

Why not? What harm will it do? Its never caused me any problems and the bike has had a lot of rough use.

 

[cookie]

This is my method too ..... not too much , and use the torque wrench !!

but if you copper slip them, then you need to adjust the torque value. figure given for shock bolts and wheels is dry.

of course if you can tighten them by hand, then it doesn't matter

 

[alfazer]

Copper grease gets over-used. Good for some threads but it seems to get plastered onto bushes, bolts and linkages where proper grease should be used.

 

[MattW]

but if you copper slip them, then you need to adjust the torque value. figure given for shock bolts and wheels is dry.

of course if you can tighten them by hand, then it doesn't matter

Exactly.

If you're going to use copperslip all bets are off regarding factory torque values. You're far more likely to damage a wheel / hub or over stretch and weaken a wheel stud of you try to achieve a dry thread torque with a lubricated bolt.

If you insist on using copperslip then tighten by hand.

 

[Madmountainman]

I don't own a torque wrench, tighten my bolts by hand - with a smidge of copperslip or pro rg2 grease - and have never had a seized bolt after i've done so, nor have i experienced a bolt come undone.

 

[alfazer]

Torque value for a lubed thread is about 70% of the dry figure. There are charts you can use to check this.

Now that's got me wondering if thread lock acts like a lube while the fastener is being tightened. And maybe the torque figures quoted for some fasteners already takes this into account. Hell knows.

 

[Mzokk]

Probably would not use a ss bolt either as it is likely not as strong as the original?

 

[monkeyboy]

Exactly.

If you're going to use copperslip all bets are off regarding factory torque values. You're far more likely to damage a wheel / hub or over stretch and weaken a wheel stud of you try to achieve a dry thread torque with a lubricated bolt.

If you insist on using copperslip then tighten by hand.

I do and I do. Has anyone had one come undone because it's been coppeslipped? If I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere and the wheel has to come off then I'd rather have it on. As far as I understand it, it's to stop things seizing and not for lubrication. Never had a problem.

In this argument, where exactly SHOULD copperslip be used then?

 

[Timolgra]

I do and I do. Has anyone had one come undone because it's been coppeslipped? If I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere and the wheel has to come off then I'd rather have it on. As far as I understand it, it's to stop things seizing and not for lubrication. Never had a problem.

In this argument, where exactly SHOULD copperslip be used then?

They don't come undone when copper slipped

But, the bolts can snap in heavy use which can lead to a snapped paralever casting, I have a high tensile lower bolt in my bike these days after having one break

Western Mongolia's not a very convenient place for it to happen

 

[MattW]

I do and I do. Has anyone had one come undone because it's been coppeslipped? If I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere and the wheel has to come off then I'd rather have it on. As far as I understand it, it's to stop things seizing and not for lubrication. Never had a problem.

Copperslip uses a grease carrier - it lubricates.

The argument against using it on structural fastenings without a secondary locking mechanism (ie tab washer, split pin etc) is that it *could* cause them to loosen when subjected to repeated vibration but equally importantly it can lead to the fastening being over tensioned and weakened (as a higher torque is needed to overcome the lubricating properties).

But if it works for you, knock herself out. I'm not telling anyone what to do - I just asked why people insist on lathering it all over wheel studs (and shock mounts).

In this argument, where exactly SHOULD copperslip be used then?

Strictly speaking, ferrous to ferrous fastenings which are either non-structural or have a secondary locking device. But of course it's used all over the place with no problems by millions of people. It's great for stopping wheel and swinging arm spindles from sticking on bikes with 'normal' suspension

I tend to use acf50 grease or chromate paste on most stainless / alloy fastenings on my bike but I use blue loctite on shock bolts and nothing on wheel studs.

But that's just me - its your bike(s), do what you like

 

[monkeyboy]

Copperslip uses a grease carrier - it lubricates.

The argument against using it on structural fastenings without a secondary locking mechanism (ie tab washer, split pin etc) is that it *could* cause them to loosen when subjected to repeated vibration but equally importantly it can lead to the fastening being over tensioned and weakened (as a higher torque is needed to overcome the lubricating properties).

But if it works for you, knock herself out. I'm not telling anyone what to do - I just asked why people insist on lathering it all over wheel studs (and shock mounts).




Strictly speaking, ferrous to ferrous fastenings which are either non-structural or have a secondary locking device. But of course it's used all over the place with no problems by millions of people. It's great for stopping wheel and swinging arm spindles from sticking on bikes with 'normal' suspension

I tend to use acf50 grease or chromate paste on most stainless / alloy fastenings on my bike but I use blue loctite on shock bolts and nothing on wheel studs.

But that's just me - its your bike(s), do what you like

So you adjust all the torque settings accordingly?

I understand your point, I think my main point of objection is the use of language like 'lathering it all over' which is quite emotive. Does Copperslip lather anyway? Perhaps it does... I'm sure you'll explain. I expect a lot of people just put a little on and as you say, it seems to sell quite well and be in use by millions without lots of scare stories of wheels falling off. I guess it comes down to usage and conditions.

Still, each to their own eh.