Rear sub frame removal

[Welshman]

That's one option. I have removed it and will clean it up.
While it's out I've removed the plugs and front cover so that I can turn the engine by hand.
There's one point where something is lightly scraping.
Bu**er
Next I will remove the alternator. If it's not that, it going to have to be a check on the clutch. That's this summer(!)'s riding over

Alternator bottom pulley been knocked?

 

[johnhorsley5]

Strange Noise

The alternator hasn't been touched, other than to remove the connections.
I plan to turn the engine and see if the noise happens at crankshaft speed or something different.

More anon

 

[johnhorsley5]

Strange Noise

Turned the engine by hand (socket on the pulley actually) The noise occurs once per clutch revolution. When it happens the S symbol on the flywheel is visible where the starter gear meets the starter ring. It almost sounds like something is touching the teeth of the starter ring. Odd
Next episode of this sorry saga is to extract a sheared M8 screw from the Catalyser/front silencer. What idiot designed that?

 

[MattW]

Have you tried operating the clutch while turning the engine over?

 

[johnhorsley5]

Probably, but I will put the starter back in and try again
Thanks

 

[johnhorsley5]

Lessons learned - Clutch noise

This is an exercise in stupidity that I share for others not to do it.
To recap, after renewing the wiring loom, there was a scraping noise when the engine turns.
I finally got around to removing the gearbox ready to strip the clutch but found that the bolt I had used for the gearbox earth connection was too long and was hitting the flywheel teeth. Duh!

Morals of story:-
1. Make sure you use the correct length bolt.
2. I should have done some analytical thinking. The noise could not have appeared by co-incidence. What had I done that affected the clutch? I could have saved months of delay and a load of work.
3. Be careful how you remove the gear position indicator switch. Mine came apart and will have to be replaced.
4. Be prepared to buy a new bleed nipple to the Clutch bleeding/Breather pipe. The Allen Grub screw just stripped. Or are there alternatives?

However it is not all bad. If I had not done this I would not have seen that the slave cylinder end of the Clutch hose was badly corroded (Thanks to James Sherlock for a replacement)
As far as I can see the clutch and flywheel are still OK (at 45k miles), so If it's not broken don't mend it. Or should I replace it all anyway?

 

[Packer]

As far as I can see the clutch and flywheel are still OK (at 45k miles), so If it's not broken don't mend it. Or should I replace it all anyway?

It very much depends on how it's been used but if ridden with mechanical sympathy, mostly out of town work, no drag racing and no wheelies it will probably do more than 100,000 miles.

I stripped my bike at around 69,000 miles for a repaint and the clutch seemed fine so I left it. I'm confident enough that I'm taking it on an 8,000 mile trip this summer which will make it >80,000 miles on the original clutch.

 

[B4ndit]

It very much depends on how it's been used but if ridden with mechanical sympathy, mostly out of town work, no drag racing and no wheelies it will probably do more than 100,000 miles.

I stripped my bike at around 69,000 miles for a repaint and the clutch seemed fine so I left it. I'm confident enough that I'm taking it on an 8,000 mile trip this summer which will make it >80,000 miles on the original clutch.

Hi Packer, Do you know how much meat is left on your clutch? Just trying to gauge the amount of miles left on mine.

 

[MikeO]

As far as I can see the clutch and flywheel are still OK (at 45k miles), so If it's not broken don't mend it. Or should I replace it all anyway?

I replaced mine (1150 ADV) at 128k miles - it wasn't worn out (but close).

I replaced everything - right down to the bolts and new slave cylinder.

If I had ANY doubt about the clutch I'd replace it whilst the engine & gearbox was split - too much effort to have that lot apart again if you can avoid it - plus I'd like to do the job on my timeframe, not the clutch plate's...

Mike

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Hi Packer, Do you know how much meat is left on your clutch? Just trying to gauge the amount of miles left on mine.

Mine had 6mm when measured during my recent gearbox rebuild and I have had read around here and found that the general consensus is that they are 6.4mm or less when new. The service limit is 4.8mm or when it starts slipping.

It very much depends on how it's been used but if ridden with mechanical sympathy, mostly out of town work, no drag racing and no wheelies it will probably do more than 100,000 miles.

I stripped my bike at around 69,000 miles for a repaint and the clutch seemed fine so I left it. I'm confident enough that I'm taking it on an 8,000 mile trip this summer which will make it >80,000 miles on the original clutch.

I wish. Mine is 35,000 miles old and is now slipping, and smelly, after a days' supposed gentle lanes with SkyGod yesterday.

Now, when I inspected it all during the gearbox rebuild the clutch plate was fairly good but the pressure plate, or was it the housing, had noticeable wear. It should be coming out again this weekend and I'll report back, with some pictures, and hopefully provide some physical information about what's gone wrong.

I hope the gearbox input seal which I installed is in good condition otherwise I've only got myself to blame.

 

[Packer]

Hi Packer, Do you know how much meat is left on your clutch? Just trying to gauge the amount of miles left on mine.

Sorry, I didn't put a micrometer on it. Between 5 & 6mm with the metal measuring stick.

 

[Steptoe]

Hi Packer, Do you know how much meat is left on your clutch? Just trying to gauge the amount of miles left on mine.

When Packer has measured his clutch thickness for your bike i wonder if he'll be so kind as to measure his tyre tread depth, as i'd like to know if my tyres need replacing yet.

 

[dancata]

Yes, sometimes you are really funny

Dan.

 

[rudiemoto]

I wish. Mine is 35,000 miles old and is now slipping, and smelly, after a days' supposed gentle lanes with SkyGod yesterday.

hope u got home ok Ditch

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Thanks. I picked up the message last night enquiring about my health.

It was easy on the home after all the worrying. Once I had some speed the snow was simply swept away from under the tyres.

 

[SIM]

I know this is dragging up an old thread but what a t**t getting the sub frame off, any tips for reassembly.........dont want to work on the previous tip of put back as you took it off. Cheers

 

[Steptoe]

I know this is dragging up an old thread but what a t**t getting the sub frame off, any tips for reassembly.........dont want to work on the previous tip of put back as you took it off. Cheers

Slide it back in, i leave the rearshock in place, so i have to lift it slightly and then drop , Make sure you've gone inbetween the throttle cables and not trapped any wires.
Lever the fuse/relay box back into it's location and the rear section of loom.
Insert front subframe long rod, then the two subframe bolts, then the rear subframe bolts I leave the footrests in place, just loosened off so the subframe can drop into place.
Then airbox bolts, rear bodywork,lights, indicators etc, and silencer bolt.

 

[SIM]

Thanks very much Neil!

 

[SIM]

Well I have put just about all of the rear back together, but like a d*ck I have a cable left over and have no idea where it connects, on the picture it is the one to the right of the emission control laid loose on the rear mudguard, it is actually attached to the emission control where it runs across the back of the fuses. Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers Simon

Think I have sorted it, its for a cat or summat like that. great back on road tonight!!

 

[hops]

try

putting a ratchet strap between the rear grabrail and the support bar on the handlebars, slowly ratchet it up, this should begin to pull the frame into a position where you align the holes up. This worked on mine for a recent clutch job.