Rear wheel bolts stuck.

Traffic893

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Hi,
I had a mobile fitter to the house to change tyres, GS1200 LC. On the rear wheel he managed to crack loose 3 bolts but 2 defeated him. Same fitter torqued them up when he changed the tyre last time.
He has actually broken 4 hex head sockets trying to loosen them. At the moment they are now being drenched with WD40.
Air wrench not an option at home, does anyone have any tips please?
 
Hi, first things first, the WD40 probably wont penetrate so use a plus gas or some such penetrating oil. It is far thinner and will seep into any gaps. Although, sounds like you dont have many gaps there ��
Heating the casting can expand it enough to draw in the fluid, but dont use flame, perhaps some hot water 5 minutes off the boil,
Then a heavy duty battery type impact driver borrowed from a good tyre fit garage and a good quality impact socket.
You say its the same guy from last time, hope he did not use bloody loctite but i have known it happen.
Using a little anti seize paste to stop the same happening next time, after cleaning the threads could help, but not wd40 whatever you do. It sets like wax and can really make things difficult.
Good luck eh.
 
Cheers Captain,
I will pick up some penetrating oil and try the hot water. No loctite type stuff used last time. :thumb2
 
Use heat on the bolts. It will soften any contaminants or indeed loctite that have glued the threads. Note: not a naked flame or paint stripper type blower, a domestic hair dryer is plenty hot enough for this purpose.
Alan R
 
Is he using a cordless impact gun to remove the bolts? That makes the job easy
 
A good quality one piece impact torx socket (less likely to snap), do not put an extension on it to keep the pivot as close to the bolt and then a 2 foot breaker bar.
Put it in gear and have someone standing on the rear brake, it will shift
 
Use heat on the bolts. It will soften any contaminants or indeed loctite that have glued the threads. Note: not a naked flame or paint stripper type blower, a domestic hair dryer is plenty hot enough for this purpose.
Alan R

Boiling water works well too and you have a brew while it works

Never tried it before and doubted its efficacy

Had a seriously stuck bottom shock rebound screw on a rear shock - tried Plus Gas, heating with hot air gun and nothing would shift for weeks

Tried the hot water trick and plunged the water on it and hey presto within 5 mins it was freed off and turning
 
This is one of the bolt sets that I always put in by hand. If you over torque them you can do a lot of mischief trying to undo them. DAMHIK :blast
 
IIRC torque for these is only 60lbs? That’s not much more than hand tight! What did he torque them up to last time?! There are plenty of pics on the internet of cracked hubs where people have torqued up to what they think feels right for a wheel nut but in this instance is too much.
 
Could you not brace the cardon side of the hub and use an impact driver?

I did hear Coke (the liquid stuff) is also an effective corrosion breaker as well , but not so aggressive
 
It might be worth using a freeze spray on the wheel hub to take some of the tension off,
With the torx bit on an extension hit it a few times with a hammer, ideally an impact driver as mentioned,
As an exception i do put a smear of coppaslip on the rear wheel bolts due to risk of corrosion,
noted how corroded the bolts were on my first gsa many years ago, no issues since,
 
As suggested by Neil W - A good quality impact bit and a decent (long) breaker bar will do it. :okay

IIRC torque for these is only 60lbs? That’s not much more than hand tight! What did he torque them up to last time?! There are plenty of pics on the internet of cracked hubs where people have torqued up to what they think feels right for a wheel nut but in this instance is too much.

I believe the rear wheel bolt torque is 60nm (not 60 lb's). :thumb2
 
It might be worth using a freeze spray on the wheel hub to take some of the tension off,
With the torx bit on an extension hit it a few times with a hammer, ideally an impact driver as mentioned,
As an exception i do put a smear of coppaslip on the rear wheel bolts due to risk of corrosion,
noted how corroded the bolts were on my first gsa many years ago, no issues since,

The plate that the wheels and brakes used to be screwed on to used to be aluminum. However, it is now a steel plate, hence no problem with galvanic corrosion. Personally, I stil do like you do and lubricate the bolts with some antiseize. May not need it, but it feels good :D

As for tips to OP: Change fitter.
 
While putting as much pressure on the breaker bar as you can with a steady force get someone to smack the end of the breaker bar with a lump hammer ar 3lb ball peen that often works to free stuck bolts.
 
While putting as much pressure on the breaker bar as you can with a steady force get someone to smack the end of the breaker bar with a lump hammer ar 3lb ball peen that often works to free stuck bolts.

The socket end, not the hand end....
 
Some good answers there guys, Thank you.
I have a few more weeks to mess about, as Welsh roads not open yet.
I will try a few of the recommendations and see what works first. :thumb2
 
Cordless impact gun

And if you do use one make sure you have impact torx bits - I didn't and the bit snapped in the head of the screw. The first four were fine, the fifth wouldn't budge, despite me torquing it up correctly after the previous removal.

Lesson learnt...
 


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