Have a 2013 GSA1200 with 3k on the clock bought new in end of Sept. There is already signs of corrosion around where the spokes enter rim. The black paint is beginning to bubble slightly. No amount of cleaning removes the marks. Is this part of the course? The front wheel looks fine.
Rear wheel corrosion
- Thread starter amesbub
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oddshapedballs
Registered user
Take it back to the dealer, they should sort it under the warranty. I had corrosion on the valve covers on my 2012 GS and they were replaced under warranty.
Old Wobbly
Registered user
Nothing on my 13 GSA rear wheel - best get it back to the dealer as you don't want a corroding rear wheel!
Blimey you have ridden it 
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it will be fine once the final drive seal lets go and puts a bit of oil on it,that will stop the corrosion
Bendy toy
Registered user
Surely anything like that is a warranty issue - assuming the bike is within a warranty of some sort it.
If not you have some hassle and expense ahead. The wheel will need to be stripped and rebuilt (search for Kevin Blurton), the hub powder coated and the rim either powder coated or better anodised. The spoke nipples fret into the metal and eventually corrosion starts. ACF-50 will help and ideally should be used during the rim lacing.
The original paint is tougher than the metal so shot blasting will rip into the alloy before it moves the paint. It has to be (specialist) chemical stripped.
If not you have some hassle and expense ahead. The wheel will need to be stripped and rebuilt (search for Kevin Blurton), the hub powder coated and the rim either powder coated or better anodised. The spoke nipples fret into the metal and eventually corrosion starts. ACF-50 will help and ideally should be used during the rim lacing.
The original paint is tougher than the metal so shot blasting will rip into the alloy before it moves the paint. It has to be (specialist) chemical stripped.
Over the last 5 years years I've had two replacement rear wheels on two bikes due to corrosion. Neither was a WC mind you, but both had between 5 and 15,000 miles on them and both within two years of new.
Jut for a change it was one corrosion item I didn't have to have an argument with the dealer about!
Jut for a change it was one corrosion item I didn't have to have an argument with the dealer about!
Mad_Accountant
Registered user
Please don't tell me you wash your bike in washing up liquid......
I can't imagine how else you would have corrosion in that time frame.
david a hall
Registered user
I expect you are referring to salt in washing up liquid? So salt on the road may do the same thing in this time span? Or could be just poor application of the powder coating? As others have said get some ACF50 on her.
Farmer Palmer
Registered user
ACF50 as said before on the rim and on the spoke nipples. It stops the wheel hub corroding too!
Bendy toy
Registered user
Who knows if its powder or paint but the BMW finish on alloy parts is incredibly tough. It thins at the corners and edges letting the damage start. There are more than a few edges on the GS hub to cause problems. Being such tough paint, the problem hides until well established when the paint eventually bubbles.
The rims are anodised so at least any damage soon shows up.
My solution was to have the wheels stripped and refinished. I fitted GS alloys (which I had stripped and powdered in gloss black) and still haven't got around to doing doing the GSA wires.
The rims are anodised so at least any damage soon shows up.
My solution was to have the wheels stripped and refinished. I fitted GS alloys (which I had stripped and powdered in gloss black) and still haven't got around to doing doing the GSA wires.
If it's a new bike take it back under warranty and get them replaced BUT when you get it back with it's new shiney wheel apply ACF50 to each and every spoke at both the hub and wheel ends from both directions , then you can rest assured the new wheel won't go the same way 
................ be aware that you may get a bit of spin off of the ACF50 first time you ride it so have a careful first short ride then wipe off any excess that may have found it's way onto edge of the tyre with a suitable degreaser/ solvent.
................ be aware that you may get a bit of spin off of the ACF50 first time you ride it so have a careful first short ride then wipe off any excess that may have found it's way onto edge of the tyre with a suitable degreaser/ solvent.
I spotted some white furry stuff growing on the rims at the spoke-holes so applied some ACF resulting in this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?358254-Tourance-EXP-vs-Mud
Bendy toy
Registered user
Unless the wheel has been dipped in ACF-50, I would simply ride the bike. A small amount on the sidewall or even edge of tread wont make any difference road, trail or wherever.
I got my supplying dealer to put AC50 on my bike pre delivery. Thedick then proceeded to wash it of at the first service !!DOH
hurricane
Registered user
That is baad.
Thought mine was bas. In aus my discs started rusting round floating rivets within months. Exhaust collect was discolouring also.
I feel the manganese alloy product used to make the components is the root cause of the problem. If you recall what is the catalist/rust inhibitor used on hulls of large ships etc .......you guessed it magnesium.'
Magnesium alloy components .....might as well be sugar cubes .
I have had honda and even suzukis in all weathers for many winters not just the one my bmw has ridden and nothing near the deterioration of the german.
I would sacrifice a few kg for longetivity of finish..... Get real BMW.
Washing with Warm Water,washing with Fairy liquid ,scrubbing anticlocwise, Washing a warm engine all rubbish . I always rinse with fresh water thoroughly and seems not to have made any difference.
I dont see cars disolving these days.
God forbid maybee the French should make motorbikes as their cars seem to last forever at least bodywise these days
Thought mine was bas. In aus my discs started rusting round floating rivets within months. Exhaust collect was discolouring also.
I feel the manganese alloy product used to make the components is the root cause of the problem. If you recall what is the catalist/rust inhibitor used on hulls of large ships etc .......you guessed it magnesium.'
Magnesium alloy components .....might as well be sugar cubes .
I have had honda and even suzukis in all weathers for many winters not just the one my bmw has ridden and nothing near the deterioration of the german.
I would sacrifice a few kg for longetivity of finish..... Get real BMW.
Washing with Warm Water,washing with Fairy liquid ,scrubbing anticlocwise, Washing a warm engine all rubbish . I always rinse with fresh water thoroughly and seems not to have made any difference.
I dont see cars disolving these days.
God forbid maybee the French should make motorbikes as their cars seem to last forever at least bodywise these days
Bendy toy
Registered user
We have too much alloy in the wrong places. Wheel rims need to be light but hubs could be steel or a less easily corroded alloy. Brakes are alloy but stainless sleeves in the bores would solve need to change seals every few years.
Brakes could also be (a lot) smaller if they used powered hydraulics then the excess weight of steel or iron calipers would not matter. The weight of a small hydraulic pump is minimal and could be driven off the alternator belt. It could be used to drive other stuff like on the fly ride height. Hmm sounds like another French car.
Engine parts are an issue. Car engines dont need to be especially light and dont spoil the car if they get rusty marks on the block. Ditto the back axle.
Brakes could also be (a lot) smaller if they used powered hydraulics then the excess weight of steel or iron calipers would not matter. The weight of a small hydraulic pump is minimal and could be driven off the alternator belt. It could be used to drive other stuff like on the fly ride height. Hmm sounds like another French car.
Engine parts are an issue. Car engines dont need to be especially light and dont spoil the car if they get rusty marks on the block. Ditto the back axle.
ACF50 - spray it into a small saucer and then use a square of sponge (1 inch by 1 inch square) to get into all the areas on wheels and spokes without getting it all over your brake discs - by using a sponge and keeping it fairly well squeezed dry it allows you to mop up any surplus ACF50.
It takes a while but only needs doing once a year and then just clean normally without scrubbing solvent cleaners into it and it will be there until you remove it.....
Job done and corrosion kept at bay.
Rik
It takes a while but only needs doing once a year and then just clean normally without scrubbing solvent cleaners into it and it will be there until you remove it.....
Job done and corrosion kept at bay.
Rik
have you forgotten the sometimes troublesome servo assisted bmw brakes?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Servo brakes are not the same as powered hydraulics as used by Citroen. They were criticised by some for being too light and lacking feel but once adapted to they were actually very sensitive to use. I once had a BX the front brakes were a very basic design but being fully powered were very powerful. The downside was loss of hydraulic pressure meant no brakes so had backup from an accumulator. It also had the hand brake working on the front brakes.
Modern cars use "normal" hydraulics but the servos are so huge they are also effectively unstoppable when the engine stops.
With mechanical power going into the system the brake calipers and discs could be made smaller but give the same braking effort. The overall vehicle weight probably would not change but any excess weight carried close to the CofG has far less effect than down on the wheels.
AFAIK, BMWs bikes with servo brakes were not the same thing. If they were, its a shame they never sorted the glitches.
Modern cars use "normal" hydraulics but the servos are so huge they are also effectively unstoppable when the engine stops.
With mechanical power going into the system the brake calipers and discs could be made smaller but give the same braking effort. The overall vehicle weight probably would not change but any excess weight carried close to the CofG has far less effect than down on the wheels.
AFAIK, BMWs bikes with servo brakes were not the same thing. If they were, its a shame they never sorted the glitches.
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