Rear wheel play, Paralever adjustment, going in......

[Redsprocket]

Hi

Advice please!

Mot last week, and passed however........

Play in back wheel bearing he said, I looked and he's right, bugger.
A read on here and seems its likely to be Paralever needs tweaking, so 30mm socket, check, 12mm hex, check, heat gun check,

So I'm ready to go, but all the talk of stripped threads is making an easy job on the face of it, sound daunting!

The bike is 2003 1150 GSA, 31k, serviced by BMW before me, so I doubt it's been done before.

Any words of wisdom appreciated

 

[ducatiparts.110mb]

Remember for every tale of woe there are 10 that go well and don't get written about.

Get stuck in, you'll be fine.

 

[Uncle Crumpet]

90 per cent of stripped threads are caused by not knowing left from right, righty tighty, lefty loosey, you can't go wrong! (unless it's a LH thread)

 

[MattW]

Plenty of heat (more than you think - remember the pivot pinion is screwed into a bloody great heatsink). A licked finger should fizz nicely when you touch the hot pinion.

Most people don't bother with locktite when re-tightening but you'll need to use a marker pen to make 'witness marks' on the adjustable pinion to ensure it hasn't moved (as you are using a socket to tighten the locknut and won't be able to hold the adjustable pinion in place). I use a big 30mm ring spanner to start the locknut off.

Remember torque figures will be irrelevant as what you're adjusting / tightening will be covered in old loctite - do it by feel.

 

[bowser]

Remember torque figures will be irrelevant as what you're adjusting / tightening will be covered in old loctite - do it by feel.

that will be, just right, then half a turn to far, snap/crack buxxxxxxxxx fuxxxxxxxxxx bolxxxxxxxxxx ;-)

 

[MattW]

that will be, just right, then half a turn to far, snap/crack buxxxxxxxxx fuxxxxxxxxxx bolxxxxxxxxxx ;-)

True, but if you're not confident about doing it by 'feel' then your only other option is taking the pinion / locknut out completely and cleaning it all up properly

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

same bike as mine, same job recently done.

Its scary to do it the first time for sure, but the advice on hear is usually fab and it went well for me

wheel was wobbly, now its not

heat gun tip true above, i had to give it a lot longer than i expected to melt the loctite.

good luck

 

[west coast traveller]

Hammerite thinners is excellent for cleaning off old locking compound. As has been said, many folk don't use loctite when replacing. I've never had them come loose, though you can always use a blob of paint on the pinion and nuts as a reference to check if anything has shifted.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Hi

Advice please!

Mot last week, and passed however........

Play in back wheel bearing he said, I looked and he's right, bugger.
A read on here and seems its likely to be Paralever needs tweaking, so 30mm socket, check, 12mm hex, check, heat gun check,

So I'm ready to go, but all the talk of stripped threads is making an easy job on the face of it, sound daunting!

The bike is 2003 1150 GSA, 31k, serviced by BMW before me, so I doubt it's been done before.

Any words of wisdom appreciated

You can adjust & tighten up, but I bet you need new bearings within 6k

 

[bowser]

True, but if you're not confident about doing it by 'feel' then your only other option is taking the pinion / locknut out completely and cleaning it all up properly

Cheap option get the c spanner attachment that takes a torque socket wrench and the job is simple

 

[MattW]

and the job is simple

Assuming you've cleaned all the old locktite off...

And if you're going to use a torque wrench, why not use a proper 30mm socket and hex bit for the adjustable pinion?...

 

[davegs]

Bearings

It realy is an easy essential job to remove the locktight so why on earth would you not do it?, having done it many times it is EASY Steppers says he never uses locktight and never had a prob. I always do as I know my luck!.
dave GS

 

[Redsprocket]

Thank you all, I'll be heating and adjusting in the morning, so should be good..........

 

[Geno]

Done my 1100 few years back and all went well , I didn't use loctite just dabs of paint on each part , hasn't moved yet ,

 

[dizzyrascal]

Whats the best procedure

Hi

Would somebody please clarify what is meant by adjustment, I keep reading conflicting advice.

is it

If you want to get rid of the play: Heat the inner lock-nut and pivot pin, back off the lock-nut a little, tighten the pivot pin until the play is gone, then re-tighten the lock-nut.

Or do you have to completely remove the lock nut and pin and then re assemble, just detected a small amount of play and want to get it right,

Thanks in advance

 

[west coast traveller]

Hi

Would somebody please clarify what is meant by adjustment, I keep reading conflicting advice.

is it

If you want to get rid of the play: Heat the inner lock-nut and pivot pin, back off the lock-nut a little, tighten the pivot pin until the play is gone, then re-tighten the lock-nut.

Or do you have to completely remove the lock nut and pin and then re assemble, just detected a small amount of play and want to get it right,

Thanks in advance

If it was me and there was locking compound on threads I would heat pivot pin and remove the whole pin. Clean the threads then you can tighten to the correct torque-7nM. The problem with trying to adjust with compound on the threads is that you will have great difficulty getting a correct reading OR adjustment (if you chose to tighten till you lose the play rather than torque up). Also it's worth checking the pivot pin for wear because I think you will not get proper adjustment if you have any lateral play between the bearing and the pin. The benefit of replacing without using locktite (and lets face it the lock nut is done up feckin' tight), is that you can adjust the bearing in future without need to remove the rear wheel-takes only a couple of minutes-I think there is a thread on here by Steptoe. If the bike has high miles, probably worth removing unit from swing arm to check all and grease.

 

[Redsprocket]

Soooooo, heated up, loosened, tightened, happy, but.......still play

So time for an expert!

Popped and saw Scriminger here in Sleaford and they find paralever bearings are knackered.....
1150, 30k miles, that'll be right then, they all do that sir..........

So, new bearings and fitted at a very fair price, all done.
Nice guys, and clearly know their boxers, I know where I'll go next time!

No play, hurrah, now ready for the sunset to sunrise charity ride in a couple of weeks

 

[iftikartaxis]

bearings

gonna say no point in adjusting the bearings take them out clean them inspect them and replace if needed plenty grease that way you know it's right good luck

 

[Grizzly]

New Bearings

I wouldn't waste time trying to adjust the bearings - there probably fecked by now.
Get new bearings, remove pins as per advice with heat, remove all Loctite from pins and swinging arm threads then rebuild with new bearings and no Loctite just use moly grease to lube the threads. Pre-load can be set using torque wrench or just by "feel" which is sometimes easier.
Adjustment can now be done easily in the future as no Loctite is present.

Cheers...........Grizzly

 

[hank]

I wouldn't waste time trying to adjust the bearings - there probably fecked by now.
Get new bearings, remove pins as per advice with heat, remove all Loctite from pins and swinging arm threads then rebuild with new bearings and no Loctite just use moly grease to lube the threads. Pre-load can be set using torque wrench or just by "feel" which is sometimes easier.
Adjustment can now be done easily in the future as no Loctite is present.

Cheers...........Grizzly

Hmm! Confused.