rear wheel play

[andy malton]

I have had a little play in my rear wheel now for the last 4.5k.If I hold it at 9&3 o'clock it can moved about 2mm in each direction,but no movement at 6&12 o'clock the seal is not leaking either and it appears not to be getting any worse than when I first discovered it,but with another alps trip just round the corner I want to get it sorted so there a few questions I need answers to.I have done lots of work on GS's,but never a bevel box!
1.Do you need any special tools once you split it?
2.I have heard about shims,can you buy these?
3.Can the play be taken up,is it adjustable?
4.just stick with it nothing to worry about?
I do have another bevel box available for use,but I would rather get this one done so I still have a spare.Cheers Andy

 

[Smartbazza]

Andy,

your point 3) I`ll not pretend to know too much about it but i had a similar problem. took it to the dealer and he fitted a new bearing for £17 at time of service.
couple of weeks later when cleaning the bike i checked again and there was movement. took it back to the dealer and they were able to tighten it up.

 

[Merlin999]

Try the taper roller bearings..?

Same symptoms on mine last year, nasty to ride...!

 

[BiG DoM]

OK I have had this movement on two occasions - the first time it was one of the taper roller bearings on the rear wheel drive that was shot and the second time (last weekend) it was the taper roller bearing further up on the swing arm (same deal) that merely needed proper adjusting and loading (appy I suspect had not torqued it properly when they did some warrenty work last time!!). Both are easy to check and fix. Firstly you will need to take off the rear wheel to be able to actually check where the play is (- the wheel exagerates this play) ... then grip the rear drive and move sideways and see if there is lateral play at the
drive or whether it is further up at the swing arm bearings. My guess is it will be one or the other. Both have a fixed stud bolts on the RHS that are torqued to 160Nm and then floating stud bolts that 'load' the taper bearings - these importantly only have a torque spec of only 7Nm with a lock nut torqued to 160Nm. To loosen the fixed stud bolts to check/replace and/or adjust you will need to heat them with an airgun to about 120C to loosen the Locktite. Go check it out - is not rocket science mate.

 

[andy malton]

Bearing

I have just changed the oil to see if any thing nasty comes out, but nothing,it's a little dark but there is no sign of any swarf on the magnetic plug.No silver floating on top the oil.I'm beginning to wonder if it's been like it since I have owned the bike .The thing that I am confused with is why it only does this a 3&9 o'clock it doen't matter how many times I move the wheel round I have tried it in 20 different places,but it only has play in one place.If it was the bearing surely it would show signs of wear all round wouldn't it. Andy

 

[andy malton]

bearing

I had the gearbox/swingarm/shaft/bevel out last week all the bearings are like new,no play or even signs of wear and it is all back together correctly and all torqued and glued up,so I know it's not that. I'm 110% sure this is a bevel problem.Andy

 

[cookie]

Re: Bearing

The thing that I am confused with is why it only does this a 3&9 o'clock it doen't matter how many times I move the wheel round I have tried it in 20 different places,but it only has play in one place.If it was the bearing surely it would show signs of wear all round wouldn't it. Andy

seen that on a normal wheel bearing before. it was just worn.

 

[BiG DoM]

Re: bearing

I had the gearbox/swingarm/shaft/bevel out last week all the bearings are like new,no play or even signs of wear and it is all back together correctly and all torqued and glued up,so I know it's not that. I'm 110% sure this is a bevel problem.Andy

In that case cannot help - just know that lateral play like you describe is most times taper bearing that is shot or not loaded enough - especially the swingarm one... will be interested in final prognosis.

 

[hops]

Freeplay

Andy,

I had the same problem on my 1100GS and it was the needle bearings in the final drive. If it is the wheel bearing the freeplay should not be noticeable if you apply the rear brake and hold it on while rocking the wheel.

Try getting an assistant to rock the wheel whilst you feel at the attachment points on the final drive and swing arm. You might need to undo the rubber boot to see into the unit as this may assist you in locating the point where the freeplay is.

The symptoms you describe should only really be attributable to the bearings on the swing arm, final drive or wheel bearings.

Possibly loose/missing spokes on the wheel itself but NOT likely as the play is only in one plane. This also makes the wheel bearing being at fault not likely.

Good luck, let us know please if you discover the cause.

Hops

 

[andy malton]

bearing

Hops,I can elimenate the spokes as I have alloys fitted.If I hold the back brake on there is still play,you can hear a slight knocking at the centre if you do it fast from side to side.Andy

 

[boxer]

Ignorance Was Bliss.

Andy.

After reading your initial post I rushed to check if my wheel had any play. Tragically, my '98 1100 rear wheel had play exactly as you described, that's to say a distinct wobble at 9&3 o'clock but rock steady at 12&6.

I've just had time for a closer look and feel pretty sure that it's the bearings or the pivots that are closest to the bevel box.

Pull the rubber gaiter back and insert your finger into the swinging arm, place it on the bevel box near the bearing/pivot so it touches the swinging arm bore as well, then rock the wheel, movement can be clearly felt. It is also possible to see the bevel box move but the swinging arm remains still.

Bugger.

 

[andy malton]

Bearing

Ok I will try tomorrow with another pair of hands.Cheers

 

[andy malton]

Bearing

Well,after the replies I have got back from various people and most saying pivot pin bearings,I decided to get up early and strip the whole thing apart again.The swing arm bearings are NOT the cause,but the bevel pivot bearings are.I decided to torque the left hand adjustable one a little more,9nm instead of 7nm then replace the wheel and give it a good wiggle and hey no movement I will get some new ones next week.Cheers Andy

 

[BiG DoM]

Re: Bearing

Well,after the replies I have got back from various people and most saying pivot pin bearings,I decided to get up early and strip the whole thing apart again.The swing arm bearings are NOT the cause,but the bevel pivot bearings are.I decided to torque the left hand adjustable one a little more,9nm instead of 7nm then replace the wheel and give it a good wiggle and hey no movement I will get some new ones next week.Cheers Andy

As expected = I would not necessarily rush to replace them as it is possible that they are still fine. When you did the strip did you inspect them for wear - most often visible on the race and rollers. Obviously if wanting to play safe you can replace but I believe later technical directives from BMW to dealers stated not to Locktite the LHS stud bolt (presumably only the lock nut) as to make for easy adjustment as bearings seat. Makes sense and there is really not much in it between 7Nm and 9Nm. In fact I load mine using the 'elbow torque wrench' and feel happeir that way. My dealer mech says that is just fine.
Pleased you got it sorted.

 

[andy malton]

Re: Re: Bearing

As expected = I would not necessarily rush to replace them as it is possible that they are still fine. When you did the strip did you inspect them for wear - most often visible on the race and rollers. Obviously if wanting to play safe you can replace but I believe later technical directives from BMW to dealers stated not to Locktite the LHS stud bolt (presumably only the lock nut) as to make for easy adjustment as bearings seat. Makes sense and there is really not much in it between 7Nm and 9Nm. In fact I load mine using the 'elbow torque wrench' and feel happeir that way. My dealer mech says that is just fine.
Pleased you got it sorted.

Dom I did inspect them infact it was under a strong magnifine glass which I have and there are no signs of any wear or marks on the rollers or race.I would not be surprised if this has been like it since I have had the bike from new 06/00.And I doubt that they have worked loose with all that locktite and locknut done up to 160nm.They were an absolute shit to get out,and I did reassemble it with ordinary loctite so I will not the heat to adjust next time,So I think I will sleep on this for a couple of days before ordering new ones,and consider it sorted.Cheers for your help Andy

 

[Ian Whinnett]

Get some new ones

I have changed the bevel boxpivot bearings on my GS, they are only about £12 from Motorworks and not difficult to change.

Ian

 

[RadioActive]

I was changing the rear pivot bearings on my '98 1100 (66K miles on the clock) and on checking the rear universal joint it's distinctly notchy. My local BMW dealer doesn't stock this item and would have to order from Germany and although they were closed by the time I'd discovered the problem so I couldn't confirm, according to their websites Motobins, Motorworks and Sherlocks don't either. I presume the UJ should be free moving in all directions and if so, does anyone know where to get them from stock?

 

[Steptoe]

How many do you want.

 

[davegs]

U/joints

See Mtr Steptoe he's the boy if they have to come from germany it aint the moon and they would be there in a couple of days.
dave ( had stuff from germany before)Gs.

 

[RadioActive]

How many do you want.

One'll do