Refitting Throttle bodies-1150GS snags

[Nigel]

Just had my throttle bodies back from Scriminger (all good)
However when fitting the LH body, the cable will not allow the butterfly quadrant to return fully to the stop by about 2mm (approx 5-10degrees by eye)

1) RH body is fine and has a little free play allowing the butterfly to fully close to the stop.
2) Its the same cable as before
3) I've checked cable run etc and ensured there is no more adjustment.

Without lifting the battery box etc does adjusting the RH have any effect on the LH ?

Have I overlooked something obvious before i get annoyed and start hacking at cable outers etc.

Thanks
Nigel

 

[Cook1e]

Slacken the cables at the handlebar end - throttle and/or the fast idle lever.



I posted the relevant page out of the manual on here somewhere...

Here it is: LINKY

 

[Trullion]

This might be b*llox, but when I had the r/h tb done by Steve Scriminger I specifically asked for the throttle stop setting not be disturbed, or if it had to be, then for it to be set the same as it was. Could it be that the initial setting has been altered, thereby affecting the cable adjustment?

 

[Steptoe]

Just had my throttle bodies back from Scriminger (all good)
However when fitting the LH body, the cable will not allow the butterfly quadrant to return fully to the stop by about 2mm (approx 5-10degrees by eye)

Is the outer L/H cable fully seated in the throttle cassette ? -

With the cable attached to the throttle body hold the throttle pulley fully closed with one hand and with the other hand twist the throttle grip fully open. You should feel it pop into place.

 

[Nigel]

Thanks all for input

Hi Cook
All cables set with maximum slack.

Taking Steptoe's cable stretching tip I've got to the stage where both sides now fully close. However to achieve this I have had to slip the lock nut to the "wrong" side of the bracket.

Hi Trullion. In my ignorance re fuel injection I'm assuming that the stop is set to achieve the minimum airflow for tick over and the throttle position sensor set to match it. Re bushing the pivot points shouldn't require the stop to be changed but it may be disturbed. Steptoe you may be able to clarify that point
I'll get it fired up tomorrow and see what I've got.
Thanks all for your input
Nigel

 

[Nigel]

Got it running but impossible to get a sensible idle (ie idle at 1500 rpm with both brass screws fully in) clearly something wrong.
Got peed off at the ridiculous compromise of having the adjusters in the wrong place and pulled it all apart again.

After much head scratching and trying to understand why the choke (fast idle) wouldn't do anything to I found it. Primary throttle cable not fully home in the little plastic "sleeve" hidden under the retainer at the splitter box end, effectively using using up about 5mm of travel.

The good news is I can now do a cable change in about half an hour so I have treated myself to a beer. Still don't understand why they don't use a splitter like my Meriden bonny.must be about half the cost and monkey proof.
Thanks again all who chucked something I the mix.
N