Reluctant to start

[Keith Chapman]

Twice this week I have had to doubt the reliability of my 1150GS in 11 years and 116K miles

Here is what is happening,

Ignition on, I can hear the fuel pump prime. Hit the starter button engine spins over but wont start.

Pump will prime after trying.

Occasionally nothing happens when I hit the starter button, no clicks from the solenoid, just silence.

Then all of a sudden the bike will start and run sweetly and continue to behave for a few days.

I suspect the sidestand switch, as previously the engine has coughed when the stand has been moved. But , I don’t think the engine will spin over if the switch is faulty. The completely dead starter button is what makes me think sidestand switch.

So, is there an easy way to by-pass the sidestand switch in such a way that I can easily revert the modification?

 

[MattW]

So, is there an easy way to by-pass the sidestand switch in such a way that I can easily revert the modification?

Trace the wiring up from the switch and find the connector by the frame rail under the seat (it's pretty well hidden and tightly cable tied). Disconnect the plug and short the two connections with a piece of wire (or a piece cut off a paperclip).

 

[Packer]

Is your neutral switch functioning and lamp displaying correctly? Try pulling in the clutch if the starter button doesn't work. That is actually good policy anyway starting on cold mornings, it gives the starter an easier time not having to turn the gearbox and cold thick oil.

 

[Steptoe]

Trace the wiring up from the switch and find the connector by the frame rail under the seat (it's pretty well hidden and tightly cable tied). Disconnect the plug and short the two connections with a piece of wire (or a piece cut off a paperclip).

It's an 1150. Plug is tucked away under the tank. Plus it's one of those "modern" plugs where you ain't going to be able to use a piece of wire to work magic.



I'd suspect the starter motor, or maybe. just maybe the switch as well, or perhaps both .

 

[Keith Chapman]

It's an 1150. Plug is tucked away under the tank. Plus it's one of those "modern" plugs where you ain't going to be able to use a piece of wire to work magic.



I'd suspect the starter motor, or maybe. just maybe the switch as well, or perhaps both .

A new sidestand switch is ££££££££'s Think I will see what motorworks have in their used stock.

The starter motor turns the engine over Ok So I will try the switch first. I hate intermittent faults.

 

[Losttheplot]

I had issues like this with my 1150, bike was really sluggish to turn over and wouldn't fire, sometimes wouldn't fire at all.

Symptoms similar to having a flat battery.

Turned out the plate that separates the planet gears and the armature on the starter had come adrift, and was shorting the coils out of the armature

Stripped starter, binned gear cover (was full of holes anyway), reassembled and all was fine again.

 

[MattW]

It's an 1150. Plug is tucked away under the tank. Plus it's one of those "modern" plugs where you ain't going to be able to use a piece of wire to work magic.



I'd suspect the starter motor, or maybe. just maybe the switch as well, or perhaps both .

Oops - I stand corrected.

Sorry for the missinformation.

 

[Keith Chapman]

I had issues like this with my 1150, bike was really sluggish to turn over and wouldn't fire, sometimes wouldn't fire at all.

Symptoms similar to having a flat battery.

Turned out the plate that separates the planet gears and the armature on the starter had come adrift, and was shorting the coils out of the armature

Stripped starter, binned gear cover (was full of holes anyway), reassembled and all was fine again.

Sounds possible, I will see if I can get hold of another motor to try before pulling mine apart.

 

[zeltus]

Occasionally nothing happens when I hit the starter button, no clicks from the solenoid, just silence.

That is symptomatic of the start motor acting up - it is exactly what happened to me when the poxey tinplate separating the planetary gears from the armature pops loose and rattles around, shorting everything in sight.

It is no big deal to take the motor off, clean it up/strip it down and see if the plate is loose. If it is this, take the f*cker off. Probably not too good a thing to do long-term but it'll work like this for months before the gears complain of dryness, I would suggest.

By which time, you'll have decided to get a new motor anyway, before the magnets fall off, the brushes disintegrate, the casting cracks, your head explodes with worrying about what is about to go wrong next

Anyway, as I said, it's just an hours' amateur labour to get the motor off - it'll be ready for a good clean anyway. And no new spare parts are needed in the meantime, so cheap to boot. For now.

FWIW, I got one of them there cheap German motors (£50 odd delivered) and that is working fine. So far. Other people have differing results, but mine was a good experience.

HTH

Bill

 

[Keith Chapman]

Well, it appears to be the starter, a borrowed motor fires the bike up easily, recon starter from Motorworks will be ordered. Hopefully it will last longer than the "cheap" German one off ebay did.

 

[Keith Chapman]

A recon starter from motorworks was fitted a week ago, spins over quickly and fires up as good as new. Motorworks were super fast supplying the motor and paying back the refund when my old one reached them, great service. Happy chap now.

 

[Wolfgang]

I had issues like this with my 1150, bike was really sluggish to turn over and wouldn't fire, sometimes wouldn't fire at all.

Symptoms similar to having a flat battery.

Turned out the plate that separates the planet gears and the armature on the starter had come adrift, and was shorting the coils out of the armature

Stripped starter, binned gear cover (was full of holes anyway), reassembled and all was fine again.

Same thing happened to me this year.
Drove me & Steptoe mad for two weeks.
New pattern starter off Ebay.
Problem solved for me.
Could still be another electrical issue tho...................

 

[Fanum]

Trace the wiring up from the switch and find the connector by the frame rail under the seat (it's pretty well hidden and tightly cable tied). Disconnect the plug and short the two connections with a piece of wire (or a piece cut off a paperclip).

Or just disconnect the two wires from the back of the switch and connect them.
I think they're spades so it's easy, but you don't need to cut them