Johnnymac
Registered user
f800?
so, has anyone done this with an F800GS?
so, has anyone done this with an F800GS?
Remap by Hilltop Motorcycles
- Thread starter Roberto
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Yes .... It's within this thread
If you can't be bothered to read through it I'll not be bothering to do it for you
F800?
Johnny Mac - Both myself and SWMBO (Magnet) have had 800's 'done' by Geoff. In fact Magnet has now had two remapped. Well worth it in our view.
Micky's right in saying that our findings are further back in the thread (the grumpy old git)
Johnny Mac - Both myself and SWMBO (Magnet) have had 800's 'done' by Geoff. In fact Magnet has now had two remapped. Well worth it in our view.
Micky's right in saying that our findings are further back in the thread (the grumpy old git)
Johnny Mac - Both myself and SWMBO (Magnet) have had 800's 'done' by Geoff. In fact Magnet has now had two remapped. Well worth it in our view.
Micky's right in saying that our findings are further back in the thread (the grumpy old git)
Less of the 'old' youngun
http://www.boxer-design.de/en/default.asp
Go to handle bar and ergonomics. £50 odd for a tiny bit of plastic - and it's fragile - very easy to snap when fitting, but well worth it.
Seeing if this will fit the RT too (emailed them).
Re-map
Had mine done yesterday on my way home from Italy (done Stelvio).
Immediately noticed an improvement in smoothness and pick up on the roads away from the garage. I used the motorways after that and it was very blustery so did not fully appreciate the changes.
Hopefully will be out on it over the weekend to fully test it out.
Cheers Geoff
Had mine done yesterday on my way home from Italy (done Stelvio).
Immediately noticed an improvement in smoothness and pick up on the roads away from the garage. I used the motorways after that and it was very blustery so did not fully appreciate the changes.
Hopefully will be out on it over the weekend to fully test it out.
Cheers Geoff
johnwiffen
Registered user
tune up
I had my GSA 1200 put right at Hill top, it performs much better now. I have just had a ride around, France, 2000 miles. Much more power with less flat spots, fuel consumption was 60.1 mpg at best to 44 at worst. I have seen 38 mpg in uk against a head wind when pushing on a bit. The GSA is not at its best for fast motorway work, too low geared and like a brick.
All Geof is doing is getting the mixture correct, no different to changing needles and jets in the good old days.
I had my GSA 1200 put right at Hill top, it performs much better now. I have just had a ride around, France, 2000 miles. Much more power with less flat spots, fuel consumption was 60.1 mpg at best to 44 at worst. I have seen 38 mpg in uk against a head wind when pushing on a bit. The GSA is not at its best for fast motorway work, too low geared and like a brick.
All Geof is doing is getting the mixture correct, no different to changing needles and jets in the good old days.
Agree
could not agree more Geoff did my Multistrada and made a huge difference on the standard set up - waiting for a few more pennies and my 1200 GS will be there no questions asked - He is a spot on bloke who knows what he is on about as he does it not just thinks he can ( like so many presume they know more)
What he said ^
Lots of armchair TT racers and engine tuners, fook me its sent me to sleep
I believe in what Geoff is doing, and to quote the gent who made the comment "He's putting the bike back to how it should've left the factory before the EU ruined it all".... is probably spot on
And theres a lot to be said for that, quote " crispness, pick up, smoothness"
That is all.
could not agree more Geoff did my Multistrada and made a huge difference on the standard set up - waiting for a few more pennies and my 1200 GS will be there no questions asked - He is a spot on bloke who knows what he is on about as he does it not just thinks he can ( like so many presume they know more)
I would imagine the smoother fuelling of the remap would be much more pronounced on the Multistrada. From a recent on a standard bike, anything below 30mph was tiring - 50mph plus was rather nice though.
If someone were to install Dynolicious or something similar on their phone and do before and after runs on the road, we could end the speculation about potential performance increases once and for all.....http://www.dynolicious.com
Hi!
Took my bike to Hilltop on Saturday 29th September for the much talked about remap.
Geoff was a great guy, very friendly and knowledgeable too. I have to say thank you to him for doing such a great job on my bike.
Results for my 2010 GS were as follows:
Before remap: 84.2 bhp/Torque 62.71 Ft/lb
Final result: 103.32 bhp/Torque 82.15
In conclusion, it does what is says on the tin, improvements all through the rev range, definitely smoother and faster to boot!
I think it is a worthwhile investment.
Took my bike to Hilltop on Saturday 29th September for the much talked about remap.
Geoff was a great guy, very friendly and knowledgeable too. I have to say thank you to him for doing such a great job on my bike.
Results for my 2010 GS were as follows:
Before remap: 84.2 bhp/Torque 62.71 Ft/lb
Final result: 103.32 bhp/Torque 82.15
In conclusion, it does what is says on the tin, improvements all through the rev range, definitely smoother and faster to boot!
I think it is a worthwhile investment.
Seeing if this will fit the RT too (emailed them).
Did you get an answer?
I've always bitched about having to grab two handfuls or hold the grip further round for a full throttle.
Mines going to Hilltop next week, freshly serviced 72,000 miles, Lennies sprockets removed, back to standard.
\v/
both mine and Patto's 1200RT's have been remapped no problem and from what I've read even the 1100's can be done
dutch97501
Registered user
Hilltop Motorcycles GSA ECU Remap USA
Well after reading the many pages on the remap I took the plunge and sent Geoff my ECU from the USA. Here is my take on the remap. First off my bike is a 2009 GSA with a K&N filter and a Offenbach muffler. I knocked the guts out of the cat per a discussion with Geoff. I was able to do this with out cutting or welding using simple hand tools. It took about two hours to do. Sending the ECU to the UK presented some challenges with the VAT tax but thats a different story. I have had my GSA since new so I have a good knowledge of how it runs. I got the ECU back from Geoff and installed it per his instructions. I took the bike for a spin and the surge that its had since new at 55-60 mph is gone. it takes less throttle and clutch to pull away from stops. It finds the rev limiter much faster. I can ride the bike at 2k in 6th gear without surging and open the throttle without down shifting and have it pull to redline. In second gear at 6k I can close the throttle and snap it open and start clicking it thru the gears on the rear wheel. Their is defiantly more hp. The dip that it had in the mid range power seems to be gone. it pulls even all the way to redline. I will have to check the fuel mileage but I suspect being able to ride the bike under 3k now is where the mileage will be made up. So would I do it again? You bet! This thing is a blast to ride now. Thanks Geoff for all the work. The video of all this is in editing and waiting for the weather and fuel mileage numbers.
Well after reading the many pages on the remap I took the plunge and sent Geoff my ECU from the USA. Here is my take on the remap. First off my bike is a 2009 GSA with a K&N filter and a Offenbach muffler. I knocked the guts out of the cat per a discussion with Geoff. I was able to do this with out cutting or welding using simple hand tools. It took about two hours to do. Sending the ECU to the UK presented some challenges with the VAT tax but thats a different story. I have had my GSA since new so I have a good knowledge of how it runs. I got the ECU back from Geoff and installed it per his instructions. I took the bike for a spin and the surge that its had since new at 55-60 mph is gone. it takes less throttle and clutch to pull away from stops. It finds the rev limiter much faster. I can ride the bike at 2k in 6th gear without surging and open the throttle without down shifting and have it pull to redline. In second gear at 6k I can close the throttle and snap it open and start clicking it thru the gears on the rear wheel. Their is defiantly more hp. The dip that it had in the mid range power seems to be gone. it pulls even all the way to redline. I will have to check the fuel mileage but I suspect being able to ride the bike under 3k now is where the mileage will be made up. So would I do it again? You bet! This thing is a blast to ride now. Thanks Geoff for all the work. The video of all this is in editing and waiting for the weather and fuel mileage numbers.
mcinlb
Registered user
No need to shout 
So how was it done, did he mount your ECU in another bike and run it on the rolling road or did he flash your ECU static?
Well done ripping your CAT out without cutting, I've just seen your other post on it, I'd have done that myself, just didn't want the bother of cutting it open
Well done ripping your CAT out without cutting, I've just seen your other post on it, I'd have done that myself, just didn't want the bother of cutting it open
Bendy toy
Registered user
I just googled these folks. http://www.hilltopmetal.co.uk/ They would probably be able to weld a cut open cat case.
I use http://www.xtremestainless.co.uk/. They are hardly local to York but would do a good job of cutting the case, extracting the cat and rewelding. They made a pair of link pipes for my Yamaha Diversion for £80 while I waited. Top job it is too.
Edit: He makes parts for Beowulf and others as well as doing custom work on bikes and cars. His baseline work comes from supplying exhausts to JCB for models no longer in production. They are REALLY fussy but he hits the spot.
I use http://www.xtremestainless.co.uk/. They are hardly local to York but would do a good job of cutting the case, extracting the cat and rewelding. They made a pair of link pipes for my Yamaha Diversion for £80 while I waited. Top job it is too.
Edit: He makes parts for Beowulf and others as well as doing custom work on bikes and cars. His baseline work comes from supplying exhausts to JCB for models no longer in production. They are REALLY fussy but he hits the spot.
Not to far away in Nottingham you will find Wayne Jackson, JAC Exhausts, he was the head fabricator at ART and runs his own fabrication company now www.jacexhausts.co.uk
He's brilliant and would have no problem either making a set of headers, or indeed performing a "cat-ectomy" if you wanted it. He's a proper craftsman is Wayne, and won't charge the earth.
dutch97501
Registered user
Removing the guts from the cat just wasnt that hard. I looked around online and was headed down the cut the header in half and once I got the header off the bike and saw I had a fair shot at getting the core apart I figured why not try. The worst that I would have to do is cut the header in half which is what I was planing on doing anyway. I was going to make a video of doing it but it was so easy it was boring to watch so I deleted it. As far as tips for anyone who wants to do it here is my hind sight on it.
1. Put on a pair of gloves. I had several small cuts on my hands when I got done.
2. Get a piece of carpet to work on. As you are working on the cat end of the header the curved end will get scratched up if you dont.
3. Get a hose clamp and put it on the opening of the cat where you will be working. It will keep you from distorting the portion of the header that the muffler slips on.
4. The core its self is about 70mm thick and is a metal honey comb. As you are tearing it apart in the housing make sure the piece you tear of will fit out of the opening. Once its loose in the header its hard to make it smaller.
As for the tools I used.
1. 48oz Hammer
2. Long needle nose pliers. Mine were 12 inches long
3. A sturdy vise mounted to a work bench.
4. A 19 inch pry-bar that can be struck with a hammer.
5. A 16 inch heel bar made in China. You will need to be able to bend it.
How I did it. I started by putting the hose clamp around the opening for protection and trying to drill a hole in the core with a long drill bit and quickly realized that wasn't going to work. I next took the cheap heel bar and sharpened the pointed end like a chisel. I could then use the hammer and without driving it thru the side of the pipe hammer it thru the core in several spots. After you have driven it thru the core you will need to clamp the remaining part of the heel bar in the vise and twist the header by hand as you pull the header off the heel bar. Once you have a few holes in the core you can then switch to the pry-bar and do the same thing. Now that you have some room to work you can pick a spot and start knocking the pry-bar thru then clamping the end of the pry-bar in the vise and breaking pieces of cat off by twisting the header by hand being careful not to bend up the lip of the the opening as you work. The hose clamp will only help so much. After about an hour and a half I had most of the cat removed. I then put a few more bends in the other end of my cheap heel bar and used the hook end to scape the remaining cat from the housing. 2 hours spent. No cutting or welding.
I have always had sportbikes in the past and when I or rather the local law enforcement decided I needed to slow down so I bought a GS and have called it my two wheeled pickup truck due to being able to haul everything under the sun on it and its lack of power. I spent a few dollars on shocks and got it to go around the corners dragging a knee with my sportbike buddies but in the strait parts they would run away from me. Im looking forward to the little surprise I have in store for the on our next ride...lol. As soon as the rain lets up I will go for a ride and check the fuel mileage. My guess is that with being able to ride at the lower rpm is going to equate to better mileage. As for hoe Geoff programmed the ECU I wasnt there so You might give him a call. I can recommend his services with no reservations.
.
1. Put on a pair of gloves. I had several small cuts on my hands when I got done.
2. Get a piece of carpet to work on. As you are working on the cat end of the header the curved end will get scratched up if you dont.
3. Get a hose clamp and put it on the opening of the cat where you will be working. It will keep you from distorting the portion of the header that the muffler slips on.
4. The core its self is about 70mm thick and is a metal honey comb. As you are tearing it apart in the housing make sure the piece you tear of will fit out of the opening. Once its loose in the header its hard to make it smaller.
As for the tools I used.
1. 48oz Hammer
2. Long needle nose pliers. Mine were 12 inches long
3. A sturdy vise mounted to a work bench.
4. A 19 inch pry-bar that can be struck with a hammer.
5. A 16 inch heel bar made in China. You will need to be able to bend it.
How I did it. I started by putting the hose clamp around the opening for protection and trying to drill a hole in the core with a long drill bit and quickly realized that wasn't going to work. I next took the cheap heel bar and sharpened the pointed end like a chisel. I could then use the hammer and without driving it thru the side of the pipe hammer it thru the core in several spots. After you have driven it thru the core you will need to clamp the remaining part of the heel bar in the vise and twist the header by hand as you pull the header off the heel bar. Once you have a few holes in the core you can then switch to the pry-bar and do the same thing. Now that you have some room to work you can pick a spot and start knocking the pry-bar thru then clamping the end of the pry-bar in the vise and breaking pieces of cat off by twisting the header by hand being careful not to bend up the lip of the the opening as you work. The hose clamp will only help so much. After about an hour and a half I had most of the cat removed. I then put a few more bends in the other end of my cheap heel bar and used the hook end to scape the remaining cat from the housing. 2 hours spent. No cutting or welding.
I have always had sportbikes in the past and when I or rather the local law enforcement decided I needed to slow down so I bought a GS and have called it my two wheeled pickup truck due to being able to haul everything under the sun on it and its lack of power. I spent a few dollars on shocks and got it to go around the corners dragging a knee with my sportbike buddies but in the strait parts they would run away from me. Im looking forward to the little surprise I have in store for the on our next ride...lol. As soon as the rain lets up I will go for a ride and check the fuel mileage. My guess is that with being able to ride at the lower rpm is going to equate to better mileage. As for hoe Geoff programmed the ECU I wasnt there so You might give him a call. I can recommend his services with no reservations.
.
Bendy toy
Registered user
This shows just how slow these bikes are and this is a boring 1150
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Cu8BZJ_hw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Cu8BZJ_hw
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