Remote key after 3 new batteries.

Wondered how long it would be.
 
richtel said:
The only scenario I can think where failure might get you in a pickle is with the lock release for the petrol cap- not necessarily the RF fob failing, but the servo-actuated fuel cap release.
Click to expand...

They can stick sometimes for sure. I did the ORS course in 2019 and several bikes had problems refuelling before the days training due to the mechanism sticking. I just keep mine lubricated as part of my monthly ride checks. Prevention being better than cure in my book - a little like the drive shaft splines!
 
RallyeGS said:
They can stick sometimes for sure. I did the ORS course in 2019 and several bikes had problems refuelling before the days training due to the mechanism sticking. I just keep mine lubricated as part of my monthly ride checks. Prevention being better than cure in my book - a little like the drive shaft splines!
Click to expand...

That's good to know. What parts of the lock mech you lubricate?
 
I remove the two torx screws at the front of the fuel filler and lubricant the components indicated. Literally 5 mins of your time. Removing those screws will also alert you to the fact that in an emergency by removing those screws you can access the fuel filler to fill up.
 

Attachments

  • D556B5AA-C3F7-486A-BB2B-9EB09A283005.jpg
    D556B5AA-C3F7-486A-BB2B-9EB09A283005.jpg
    256.6 KB · Views: 210
  • 53488C90-660F-483E-9B2A-A1D9CB615B50.jpg
    53488C90-660F-483E-9B2A-A1D9CB615B50.jpg
    245.3 KB · Views: 214
A new one for me -
I haven’t used the bike for a month or two so it’s sat happily as usual on a battery tender. Went out a couple of days ago with the intention of going on on the first dry day in ages, so disconnected the charger and placed the fob on the petrol cap (to save it falling off), pressed the ignition button.
All the lights came up, it did its’ check ok but on pushing the starter everything went off except for a red flashing light on the dash, and the bike failed to start.
I put it back on charge, and then a couple of days later tried again thinking that maybe I had somehow disconnected the charger previously.
Everything working, bike stated except that there was the ‘key in a case’ symbol lit up on the dash. I have 2 fobs so I repeated the starting process again with the 2nd fob. Again it started as before except the ‘key in a case’ symbol came up again.
I couldn’t see it that both fobs were down on batteries but I changed them both with different makes of batteries 3 times, no difference.
Bahnstormers say to bring it in and try one of their BMW ones and if that doesn’t work they’ll book it in. That’s OK (if pricey) but I wondered if anyone had seen this before? I don’t have a 911 btw.

Thanks
 
When I had a keyless RT it went through loads of fob batteries to begin with. Dealer advised to use only Varta batteries and to ensure the O Ring sealing the battery compartment was in place to prevent moisture ingress corroding electrical contacts.
Sounded a bit far fetched, but it worked.
 
I’ve had this problem. Took it into dealers in Cardiff, thinking there may be an issue with the fob, baffled them.
I’ve tried Varta, Enigizer, and Duracell. All brand new but still get the message.
The original lasted well over 2Yrs.
 
I've had similar the issue is the batteries the key is like the bike when trying to read codes very voltage sensitive. I found the key needed a minimum of 3.2v anything less and its not going to work properly. Often especially eBay batteries can be old and dropped below that. I also found some main makes as mentioned above didn't work.

What did was Panasonic (y)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom