Removal of ABS...Switch issues

[TheMcQuaid]

do you think ive nohing better to do??? nah just kiddin

i did the normal method of going about it, using the following parts

34327650965 x 1 distribution piece
34211236793 x 1 bleed nipple
34211236794 x 1 dust cap
34327677201 x 1 rear brake hose
07119963072 x 8 sealing ring for all banjo bolts
61312305729 x 1 front brake switch ( connection needs to be switched with old switch
61311459747 x 1 rear brake switch ( connection same as above but also needs the arm removed off old switch and replaced with new one, thats the actual bit that touches foot lever

And brakes are now perfect

 

[Timolgra]

There's no need to change the rear brake hose

 

[TheMcQuaid]

The original hose has an angle on it at master cylinder end, this way......looks like it was made for it!

 

[Timolgra]

There's still no need at all to waste money on another hose

 

[TheMcQuaid]

read 6th post....list of needed parts, ive also read on other forums that people experience problems with the original hose...so i was replacing it, im doing this for a customer and as a business...i wasnt taking any risks

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=499068&page=1

 

[Steptoe]

There's still no need at all to waste money on another hose

it's an RT.

 

[Timolgra]

it's an RT.

Oh feck, my apologies

 

[TheMcQuaid]

not a problem

 

[Humbug]

I posted a wiring diagram and pictures of the servo/abs removal over two years ago, plus what switches and section of brake line you'll need.

I can't find this article. Does it still exist?

I have a friend who would lke to remove this from his R1150RT due to a the ABS modulator failing.

Any links would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Steptoe]

Any links would be greatly appreciated.

[URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232002"]Font of wisdom[/URL], thanks to daveh it's now even easier and at no cost for switches etc .

 

[Humbug]

Thanks Steptoe.

Much appreciated.

 

[sogsniper]

Hello Humbug, I am looking for a right side toolbox for a Norton 16H Lex Schmidt told me
you can probbeli help me?? can you send me a direct mail [email protected]

 

[Humbug]

Hello Humbug, I am looking for a right side toolbox for a Norton 16H Lex Schmidt told me
you can probbeli help me?? can you send me a direct mail [email protected]

WTF?

 

[Idkfabob]

I posted a wiring diagram and pictures of the servo/abs removal over two years ago, plus what switches and section of brake line you'll need.
Since copied by a independant bmw parts supplier (who passed on the advice for later K series bikes and then found out it's wrong for those bikes, so i'll be keeping the wiring diagrams for all the other models to myself ) who will also sell you a vastly overpriced conversion kit

Here it is from an old post. The part that you need is in red.

Yes there are 23 wires - i've sat for half a day and traced and checked the function of each and every one of them.
And now for your benefit i'll let you have all the knowledge that you need to do the job for no cost and no effort to your good self. And bear in mind that anything you read on your USA websites, is for some reason always made much more complicated than is necessary.

Rear light wiring - open the fuse box, and add a link between the grey/white (from the rear light) with the grey/black output wire from fuse number 2 .

To wire the brake lights - On the servo plug ( now redundant) from the loom, cut back the sheathing and link the green( iginition live), white/blue, yellow/green all together - and the grey/yellow, yellow/black, white/yellow together. ignore all the other wires.
So you now have two seperate circuits, one for the rear brake light and one for the front brake light .

Hi Steptoe
Can you please offer me a little assistance
I have bmw r1150 r 2002 ABS 3
No brake light
Constant continuity at both brake switches until applied
Thanks

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hi Steptoe
Can you please offer me a little assistance
I have bmw r1150 r 2002 ABS 3
No brake light
Constant continuity at both brake switches until applied
Thanks

Is your Servo still fitted?

If not? what Method did you use for the removal?

Have you checked the Bulb / Bulb holder for corrosion ??

There "Used" to be an issue where cables frayed

 

[Idkfabob]

Is your Servo still fitted?

If not? what Method did you use for the removal?

Have you checked the Bulb / Bulb holder for corrosion ??

There "Used" to be an issue where cables frayed

Servo fitted = no
Both hydraulic brakes work fine / independently non ABS
Bulb is fine / bulb holder working correctly
Tail light is functioning correctly
Continuity along all wiring I have check is fine.
I have continuity through both front and rear brake switches until applied

 

[DrFarkoff]

Servo fitted = no
Both hydraulic brakes work fine / independently non ABS
Bulb is fine / bulb holder working correctly
Tail light is functioning correctly
Continuity along all wiring I have check is fine.
I have continuity through both front and rear brake switches until applied

So did you plug the ABS control electronics back in to the loom after the removal or what method was used ??

 

[Idkfabob]

So did you plug the ABS control electronics back in to the loom after the removal or what method was used ??

I removed the circuit board from the ABS unit

So did you plug the ABS control electronics back in to the loom after the removal or what method was used ??

Okay so there has been much talk of the "new" method, it has actually been around for quite a while!

I can claim no credit for this procedure and my apologies for schite photos it wasn't meant to be a process I just figured (when I was halfway through removing one for a mate) it was time folks stopped cutting their wiring looms and causing themselves grief

Why use it over the original first post ?? Okay whilst I did use that method a couple of times and it is fine it leaves a weak point in the wiring

Its "basically" the same process for any of the bikes with servo ABS the 1200 Hexhead bikes have no blue relay to "pull" and the GS has surface mount LED for warning lights so all you do is remove bulbs from the panels (or in the GS case paint the LED with black nail polish and/or the warning indicator cut out )

Its simple I snip the pipes with a decent pair of diagonal cutters Basically it seals the pipes and prevents fluid spillage as you lift the unit out

THIS METHOD POST #248 IN A DIFFERENT THREAD

 

[DrFarkoff]

THIS METHOD POST #248 IN A DIFFERENT THREAD

Check the username on those photos LOL

the grey with the Black trace is Sidelamp circuit positive

Brown is Ground or earth

Grey with Yellow trace is the Brake lamp feed


Hints Use a proper Incandescent Bulb type tester and not an LED or Voltmeter

they can show 12 V or that there is voltage but the draw is so minimal it will show at the lowest current available

Also start at the ECU plug and make sure that they input from the Brake switches actually gets back to the ECU

then it is just check the outputs !

Its just a made and break switch to trip a circuit in an electronic box

 

[Idkfabob]

[URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232002"]Font of wisdom[/URL], thanks to daveh it's now even easier and at no cost for switches etc .

Hi steptoe this link doesn’t work for me mate
I have bmw r1150r 2002
Trying to make my brake light work after abs removal
Can you help ?