colin.gray
Guest
Can anyone help. I need to remove the tank on my 1150 gs to put engine bars on and fit a starcom kit can anyone help?
Cheers Col
Cheers Col
If memory serves 
Ride bike until not much petrol left in tank - less the better unless you're feeling strong
Remove both seats
Remove plastic cover on RHS below tank where you'll find...
1. Undo electrical connection
2. Undo fuel line quick connects (x2)
Undo drain lines (x2)
Undo & remove tank mounting bolt on rear RHS nearest seats
Lift tank back and up and there you go...
If you've missed anything then you'll soon realise something is still connected
Ride bike until not much petrol left in tank - less the better unless you're feeling strong
Remove both seats
Remove plastic cover on RHS below tank where you'll find...
1. Undo electrical connection
2. Undo fuel line quick connects (x2)
Undo drain lines (x2)
Undo & remove tank mounting bolt on rear RHS nearest seats
Lift tank back and up and there you go...
If you've missed anything then you'll soon realise something is still connected
I'll try!Take off seat, take off RH black plastic cover above throttle body. All connections are on RH side. Two fuel lines, if you have QD clips great, if not you'll need to pinch the lines to stop fuel pissing everywhere before undoing hose clamps. Disconnect electrical connector that's attached to the frame. Pull apart to breather pipes that are zip tied to sub frame rail below & behind rear of tank. Now undo bolt through tank bracket at rear RH side of tank(taking care not to drop the nut!). Now lift tank up and backwards. A helper is very handy, as is an empty tank.
Hope that helps
as Tarka would say RTFM.
OK here goes,
First go for a ride to use as much fuel as you can cos a full tank is heavy.
Put bike on centre stand.
Remove seat
Remove black Plastic cover from right hand side of tank.
diconnect the block connector.
disconnect the two QD connectors
disconnect the two Breather pipes.
undo the allen bolt that holds the tank on BUT do not drop the nut.
lift of tank.
When you have re ftitted the tank check the RHS throttle cable to make sure it is seated correctly.
Must type faster.
OK here goes,
First go for a ride to use as much fuel as you can cos a full tank is heavy.
Put bike on centre stand.
Remove seat
Remove black Plastic cover from right hand side of tank.
diconnect the block connector.
disconnect the two QD connectors
disconnect the two Breather pipes.
undo the allen bolt that holds the tank on BUT do not drop the nut.
lift of tank.
When you have re ftitted the tank check the RHS throttle cable to make sure it is seated correctly.
Must type faster.
Dead Easy
1 remove the seat
2 Disconnect the battery
3 Remove the plastic cover on rhs below tank, here you`ll find the 1 and only bolt that holds the tank on.
4 Disconnect the electrical plug socket in front of the fuel tank bolt
5 The fuel lines to each throttle body are joined by a white conector, push the metal part its about the size of a 5p piece. the fuel will not escape as once these are disconnected the connectors prevent fuel from running out.
6 disconnect the breather/overflow pipes that run down behind the brake pedal, these pull apart at the joins at the top of the frame, just trace them until you find the joints.
7 pull tank back towards the back of the bike to bring it off its front mounts.
8 under neath the tank there is a pipe that connects the 2 sides of the tank, disconnect the same way as the fuel supply pipes to the throttle bodies.
9. Now lift the tank off making sure none of the connectors or pipes get caught on frame.
hope that helps, if I`ve missed something someone will post a better/easier way of doing it
1 remove the seat
2 Disconnect the battery
3 Remove the plastic cover on rhs below tank, here you`ll find the 1 and only bolt that holds the tank on.
4 Disconnect the electrical plug socket in front of the fuel tank bolt
5 The fuel lines to each throttle body are joined by a white conector, push the metal part its about the size of a 5p piece. the fuel will not escape as once these are disconnected the connectors prevent fuel from running out.
6 disconnect the breather/overflow pipes that run down behind the brake pedal, these pull apart at the joins at the top of the frame, just trace them until you find the joints.
7 pull tank back towards the back of the bike to bring it off its front mounts.
8 under neath the tank there is a pipe that connects the 2 sides of the tank, disconnect the same way as the fuel supply pipes to the throttle bodies.
9. Now lift the tank off making sure none of the connectors or pipes get caught on frame.
hope that helps, if I`ve missed something someone will post a better/easier way of doing it
Dont ask me how to put it back on !!!!
Zdaveuk just a three points..
2. how do you do that without lifting or removing the tank
5. one fuel line feeds both the injectors, the other is a return feed to the tank for the waste fuel from the inector system.
8. That is only on the Adv tank.
As a matter of interest, the return feed can be used for removing fuel from the tank, either to drain the tank or filling camping stoves etc. with the pipe disconnected and the engine running the waste fule is then pumped to where ever you want it.
Dead Easy
2 Disconnect the battery
5 The fuel lines to each throttle body are joined by a white conector, push the metal part its about the size of a 5p piece. the fuel will not escape as once these are disconnected the connectors prevent fuel from running out.
8 under neath the tank there is a pipe that connects the 2 sides of the tank, disconnect the same way as the fuel supply pipes to the throttle bodies.
2. how do you do that without lifting or removing the tank
5. one fuel line feeds both the injectors, the other is a return feed to the tank for the waste fuel from the inector system.
8. That is only on the Adv tank.
As a matter of interest, the return feed can be used for removing fuel from the tank, either to drain the tank or filling camping stoves etc. with the pipe disconnected and the engine running the waste fule is then pumped to where ever you want it.
must just be me then
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OK - the only helpful comments I can add are:
1) if yours is a GS (not Adv) you might not have Quick Disconnects. This makes it more of a pain as you will want something to plug the end of the fuel line when you remove it. Before I fitted QDs, I used to do this with a bolt.
2) Also, if yours is not an Adv, point 8 from zdaveuk's post is irrelevant as you won't have a pipe linking the 2 sides of the tank. *edit* took me too long to type this so Keith has already picked that up...
3) When you lift the tank off, it's very common for the rubber mount, where the bolt that secures the tank was, to fall off. Watch both halves as they bounce their merry way into the gravel....
4) There's also a little rubber mount where the black plastic side panel you removed locates on the frame. It is very common for this to dislodge from the frame and bounce around.
Think that's about it...
oh one more
5) When putting the tank back on, locate it on the frame bungs at the front and before you bolt it back to the frame - reconnect the battery. The reason for this is that you can still lift the back of the tank to give yourself room to work. (I prop the tank up on the airbox with a hammer to keep both hands free - so Jam, no it's not just you that uses a hammer ). You can still get to the battery (just) when the tank is in place, but I've seen more than one person short the terminals with a spanner. Makes a great noise
Hope that helps
p.s.
We're all making it sound really complicated - It's not. It's a fairly straightforward job and shouldn't take you very long.
1) if yours is a GS (not Adv) you might not have Quick Disconnects. This makes it more of a pain as you will want something to plug the end of the fuel line when you remove it. Before I fitted QDs, I used to do this with a bolt.
2) Also, if yours is not an Adv, point 8 from zdaveuk's post is irrelevant as you won't have a pipe linking the 2 sides of the tank. *edit* took me too long to type this so Keith has already picked that up...
3) When you lift the tank off, it's very common for the rubber mount, where the bolt that secures the tank was, to fall off. Watch both halves as they bounce their merry way into the gravel....
4) There's also a little rubber mount where the black plastic side panel you removed locates on the frame. It is very common for this to dislodge from the frame and bounce around.
Think that's about it...
oh one more
5) When putting the tank back on, locate it on the frame bungs at the front and before you bolt it back to the frame - reconnect the battery. The reason for this is that you can still lift the back of the tank to give yourself room to work. (I prop the tank up on the airbox with a hammer to keep both hands free - so Jam, no it's not just you that uses a hammer
). You can still get to the battery (just) when the tank is in place, but I've seen more than one person short the terminals with a spanner. Makes a great noise Hope that helps
p.s.
We're all making it sound really complicated - It's not. It's a fairly straightforward job and shouldn't take you very long.
see told you !!!
point 8 only for an ADV tank better to include it and not need it than miss it out and wonder whats holding his tank on.
johnypebs
Guest
re-connecting fuel lines
Be careful when reconnecting the fuel lines 'quick-connectors'. If the frame side of the lines is tiewrapped to the frame tube, remove these first to allow easy joining of the male & female parts. If not connected cleanly with the slide locking plate held in fully, it's possible to shave the 'O' rings and cause a fuel leak when pressurised on startup. Here's how I know this:
I had a brand new twospark r1150r which quickly revealed a duff battery. I took the bike to the dealer in Dundee for the battery to be replaced under warranty, a round trip in sub-zero temperatures of 300 miles for me. I picked up the bike later, rode it straight home and parked it. Next morning my wife noticed a puddle under the bike which turned out to be petrol. The BMW assist bloke turned up to replace the 'o' rings. The shop denied it was their fault, but I overheard the BMW guy say to them on the phone that the 'o' rings were gone. He showed them to me and sure enough that was the problem. I never noticed a smell of petrol on the ride home, but there was a leak. I never used the dealer again.
Be careful when reconnecting the fuel lines 'quick-connectors'. If the frame side of the lines is tiewrapped to the frame tube, remove these first to allow easy joining of the male & female parts. If not connected cleanly with the slide locking plate held in fully, it's possible to shave the 'O' rings and cause a fuel leak when pressurised on startup. Here's how I know this:
I had a brand new twospark r1150r which quickly revealed a duff battery. I took the bike to the dealer in Dundee for the battery to be replaced under warranty, a round trip in sub-zero temperatures of 300 miles for me. I picked up the bike later, rode it straight home and parked it. Next morning my wife noticed a puddle under the bike which turned out to be petrol. The BMW assist bloke turned up to replace the 'o' rings. The shop denied it was their fault, but I overheard the BMW guy say to them on the phone that the 'o' rings were gone. He showed them to me and sure enough that was the problem. I never noticed a smell of petrol on the ride home, but there was a leak. I never used the dealer again.
colin.gray
Guest
Thanks
Thanks everyone. I agree with the RTFM. However I will give it ago this weekend and lets hope i dont need the hammer.
Cheers Col
Thanks everyone. I agree with the RTFM. However I will give it ago this weekend and lets hope i dont need the hammer.
Cheers Col
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