Removing rear 'deck' or gaining access to rear lighting loom on 2011 GSA.

[RSavage]

I want to obtain access to the loom feeding the rear indicators and tail light cluster and can see no means of doing so other than by removing the rear 'deck' - the part that the rear seat sits on. Is it really that difficult?

Suggestions as to how to get to the loom would be gratefully received.

 

[TLSgazza]

Yep pretty much, I had to undo loads to get access just to change the corroded rear light cluster

 

[RSavage]

Yep pretty much, I had to undo loads to get access just to change the corroded rear light cluster

Crap design :-(

Must the carriers for the panniers be removed in their entirety or can just the bolts securing them to the top deck be removed?

 

[Steptoe]

You muppets - The plastic mudguard section underneath the rear subframe unscrews enabling you access all the wiring loom and plugs I think it's a total of 7 small torq screws, 5 underneath and two on top holding the plastic tool tray/starter relay section

 

[SteveM]

You muppets

 

[RSavage]

You muppets - The plastic mudguard section underneath the rear subframe unscrews enabling you access all the wiring loom and plugs I think it's a total of 7 small torq screws, 5 underneath and two on top holding the plastic tool tray/starter relay section

Thanks Steptoe

Tool tray - yes - but can't recall seeing any relays in that area,

Plus, presumably, removal of the Mudsling.

Richard

 

[TLSgazza]

You muppets - The plastic mudguard section underneath the rear subframe unscrews enabling you access all the wiring loom and plugs I think it's a total of 7 small torq screws, 5 underneath and two on top holding the plastic tool tray/starter relay section

So you've confirmed my comment on undoing loads to get access, ta!!
I had to undo the panniers rails and said 7_12 torx screws, still a pita.

 

[Steptoe]

So you've confirmed my comment on undoing loads to get access, ta!!
I had to undo the panniers rails and said 7_12 torx screws, still a pita.

A pita !!! 2 minutes max to remove the plastic cover..

 

[Bendy toy]

A connector (in the battery/tool tray area) to the back end wiring would have been a handy feature.

 

[Steptoe]

A connector (in the battery/tool tray area) to the back end wiring would have been a handy feature.

There is s connector in the rear section, easy enough to move it/add one in the tool tray.

 

[TLSgazza]

A pita !!! 2 minutes max to remove the plastic cover..

How much for 2 minutes labour if I get you to do it next time,

I just spent quite a bit of time taking it apart to replace the rear light cluster that was full of dirt and crap and was fairly corroded, then cleaning a!l the accumulated road dirt out

 

[Steptoe]

How much for 2 minutes labour if I get you to do it next time,

Minimum workshop charge of £80.

 

[Bendy toy]

How much for 2 minutes labour if I get you to do it next time,

I just spent quite a bit of time taking it apart to replace the rear light cluster that was full of dirt and crap and was fairly corroded, then cleaning a!l the accumulated road dirt out

Mine was all stripped off when I had the frame powder coated. The rear lamp brackets were a mess of rust. The alloy spacers under the carrier brackets had reacted badly with the stainless carrier frame. They need to be stainless or fitted with hard plastic washers.

The powder coating seems to have coped but its failed on some other parts. On the Kettle rebuild, I’ve gone to grit blasting and hot zinc metal spray to pretty much galvanise the steel. It’s low cost with a quick turnaround. Admittedly, I still have to do the paint so there’s no financial saving but that should stop any remaining corrosion dead.

It needs a gentle rub down with wet/dry to flat any “nibs”, then prime with a suitable zinc compatible primer etc etc. I don’t bother where it’s not seen.