Replacing clutch, what else to do?

[KHOONKEAT]

Hi guys (and gals)

I am looking for suggestions on what else to do when I change my clutch.

I have my pre-owned R11GS for more than 1 year now. I have also been reading your post for that long. Now it is my turn to post.

I am thinking of getting the clutch replaced . My mileage is 120k km, bike registered in 1998. Do you consider this reasonable wear and tear? I owned the bike from 100k onwards and 100% on tar road only. I am not sure of previous owners but in Singapore, there is not much chance of going off road or tour the world...

Symptom: I have to release the clutch almost near to end before it would bite and from what I read, that is sign that clutch is wearing out. I also experienced some slippage when I was in 5th gear.

My dealer told me changing clutch for RGS is a big job so I would like to know when I am at that, what else should I do. I am sure the they will recommend to change thousands and one thing but I have limited budget.

Please tell me what is MUST CHANGE, what is GOOD TO CHANGE and what is NICE TO CHANGE.

Thanks a lot!

kk

 

[Dragon Master]

Hi guys (and gals)

I am looking for suggestions on what else to do when I change my clutch.

I have my pre-owned R11GS for more than 1 year now. I have also been reading your post for that long. Now it is my turn to post.

I am thinking of getting the clutch replaced . My mileage is 120k km, bike registered in 1998. Do you consider this reasonable wear and tear? I owned the bike from 100k onwards and 100% on tar road only. I am not sure of previous owners but in Singapore, there is not much chance of going off road or tour the world...

Symptom: I have to release the clutch almost near to end before it would bite and from what I read, that is sign that clutch is wearing out. I also experienced some slippage when I was in 5th gear.

My dealer told me changing clutch for RGS is a big job so I would like to know when I am at that, what else should I do. I am sure the they will recommend to change thousands and one thing but I have limited budget.

Please tell me what is MUST CHANGE, what is GOOD TO CHANGE and what is NICE TO CHANGE.

Thanks a lot!

kk

Before you go changing it, have you tried adjusting it? I've covered a similar mileage to you; I've had 'slip' appear a few times over the years, as with yours, in fifth gear, but adjusting the cable has cured it. It's an easy enough job, have a look here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39246&highlight=Clutch+adjustment+1100

One tip; make sure you have one of those magnetic retriever things, or a bit of sturdy wire (unwound coat hanger) with you. I dropped my 13mm socket the first time I tried this; it got stuck under the swinging arm. As I tried to retrieve it I lost my balance, knocked the bike off the centre stand, and as the suspension operated the socket was trapped between swinging arm and gearbox casing, and snapped a large chunk out of the casing. New gearbox required. Just be a bit careful...

Dave.

 

[(RIP) ugg]

Before you go changing it, have you tried adjusting it? I've covered a similar mileage to you; I've had 'slip' appear a few times over the years, as with yours, in fifth gear, but adjusting the cable has cured it. It's an easy enough job, have a look here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39246&highlight=Clutch+adjustment+1100

One tip; make sure you have one of those magnetic retriever things, or a bit of sturdy wire (unwound coat hanger) with you. I dropped my 13mm socket the first time I tried this; it got stuck under the swinging arm. As I tried to retrieve it I lost my balance, knocked the bike off the centre stand, and as the suspension operated the socket was trapped between swinging arm and gearbox casing, and snapped a large chunk out of the casing. New gearbox required. Just be a bit careful...

Dave.

"OWCH"

 

[KHOONKEAT]

Thanks!

Thanks a lot! That may save me big time!

 

[Steptoe]

You must adjust the clutch at the back of the gearbox, not at the lever on the bars.

 

[speeder]

The clutch on my 1100 has always engaged on the last couple of milimeters, been like it for the last 40,000 miles with no problems!
I don't believe it is a sign of impending clutch failure.

speeder.

 

[nunesaf]

Hi,

Sorry KHOONKEAT to hijack your thread, it's just I have a similar concern. My clutch doesn't slip but it bites at the very end of the lever. I have a 1150 that is hydraulic. Like in your case, I was told to adjust it. My question is how to do actually it?

Cheers

 

[D6]

theres a rather informative and factual account of how to remove a gearbox in my posts somewhere

 

[D6]

Hi,

Sorry KHOONKEAT to hijack your thread, it's just I have a similar concern. My clutch doesn't slip but it bites at the very end of the lever. I have a 1150 that is hydraulic. Like in your case, I was told to adjust it. My question is how to do actually it?

Cheers

its all in the haynes manual, get urself one, it,l pay for itself

 

[Dragon Master]

theres a rather informative and factual account of how to remove a gearbox in my posts somewhere

Yep, reddit. But you don't need to remove the box to adjust the clutch on the 1100. In fact you don't have to remove anything if you have what Haynes like to refer to as 'a bit of dexterity'. And preferably a wobbly extension for the socket and a ring spanner. And the aforementioned retrieval device on stand-by.

|I would suggest though that, if you have the time/tools/ability, it would pay to remove the swinging arm. It makes the whole adjustment much easier, and it gives you chance to have a look at the back of the gearbox. There can be a lot of crap gets in there, so a good clean-out wouldn't go amiss. There are also four oil seals back there, you can do a visual on these.

And... I had a problem last year where the clutch activator arm, the one that you're adjusting, snapped. I don't know why it did this. I was told that the bearing it pivots on can became full of crap and seize, but mine was working OK. But it might pay to get the swinging arm off to give that pivot a glean up/grease.

Just suggestions if you have the time, but nothing actually needs removing.

Dave.

 

[Colban]

Hi,

Sorry KHOONKEAT to hijack your thread, it's just I have a similar concern. My clutch doesn't slip but it bites at the very end of the lever. I have a 1150 that is hydraulic. Like in your case, I was told to adjust it. My question is how to do actually it?

Cheers

Naughty boy hijacking the mans 1100 thread with a 1150 question.
The 1150 clutch lever can be only adjusted for finger reach.
As the hydraulic clutch wears,it pushes fluid back into the clutch cylinder,overfilling it and causing a hydraulic lock.Check fluid level and whether the clutch lever is being fouled by the handguard.How many miles has the bike done?.The clutches normally last a long time (over 100k easy) unless an oil seal fails but you may be able to check the wear if you remove the starter.

 

[KHOONKEAT]

Thanks for the info. I shall check it out.

btw, there is problem with the ABS too and I suspect they are related. The error (alternative blinking) comes on so often that I gave up resetting.

I did a change of battery and also sent it to the dealer for a check. They told me that no errors were registered on the ABS computer when they did the diagnosis. Their suggestion: to change the ABS unit but I am not prepared to spent anymore as they already charged me SGD$1.7k on replacing may other parts! Yes, it is bloody expensive maintaining a BMW bike in Singapore.

On the other hand, I noted that after I reset the error, it will come on the minute I start off by release the clutch slowly. Quite a few time I released it fast with the bike lurched forward but no errors! Have anyone experienced this before?

Lately even if I manager to start riding without errors, the error would suddenly appear while riding if I m not "careful" with the clutch if you know what I mean. So I stopped trying to reset but ABS and telelever was the main reasons I choose RGS.

I shall start by adjusting the clutch and report the changes if any.

Thanks again.

kk

 

[BSD]

Hi Khoon Keat,your dealer sounds really expensive.Have you ever tried taking your bike into Malaysia for servicing?Labour would def be cheaper with the exchange rate.
I can highly recommend Welly Cycle in Sungai Buloh Selangor.He does a lot of BMW's.Apprx 350kms from you?Even if you're worried about riding all the way,you can always put the bike on the train in Johor...pick it up in KL.
Best thing is to ring them up,and get a quote on the phone to see if it's worth the trip.
+603-65622135

Good Luck

 

[(RIP) ugg]

Yep, reddit. But you don't need to remove the box to adjust the clutch on the 1100. In fact you don't have to remove anything if you have what Haynes like to refer to as 'a bit of dexterity'. And preferably a wobbly extension for the socket and a ring spanner. And the aforementioned retrieval device on stand-by.

|I would suggest though that, if you have the time/tools/ability, it would pay to remove the swinging arm. It makes the whole adjustment much easier, and it gives you chance to have a look at the back of the gearbox. There can be a lot of crap gets in there, so a good clean-out wouldn't go amiss. There are also four oil seals back there, you can do a visual on these.

And... I had a problem last year where the clutch activator arm, the one that you're adjusting, snapped. I don't know why it did this. I was told that the bearing it pivots on can became full of crap and seize, but mine was working OK. But it might pay to get the swinging arm off to give that pivot a glean up/grease.

Just suggestions if you have the time, but nothing actually needs removing.

Dave.

only if you have tiny hands
thats why i removed the swing arm , easy wen ye add a bit of heat...just remember to double check the pivot bolt torque settings on re assembly.....

ugg

 

[D6]

only if you have tiny hands
thats why i removed the swing arm , easy wen ye add a bit of heat...just remember to double check the pivot bolt torque settings on re assembly.....

ugg

omg, ur learnin ugg

 

[Dragon Master]

Originally Posted by ugg:
only if you have tiny hands

Yeah, it would help; maybe I wouldn't have dropped that socket. Oh, and removing the rear suspesion adjuster gives a bit more room as well.

Dave.

 

[KHOONKEAT]

Thanks BSD

Will consider doing that if I ever ride to KL. Thanks for the contact.

kk

 

[KHOONKEAT]

Hi guys,

Just an update. Managed to get the clutch adjusted. Now the slip feeling is gone! Thanks. Also took the opportunity to get the clutch cleaned of all those dust. The pad still have approx 1mm. Also, the ABS error did not go away.