Replacing head bearings R100GS??

[Noely]

Hi Guys

May be venturing in to replace a mates head bearings on his 89 100GS, are any special tools needed or anything i should look out for??

Cheers Guys

 

[ians]

Weld a bead around the outer race. The heat will loosen it and also give you something to hammer against.

 

[Beemerboff]

Yes, either a welder or a good quality internal expanding bearing puller - on most bikes there is no lip to hammer against to remove the bearing.

Cycleworks sells a reasonably priced remover - about a quarter of what I was quoted for a pro puller.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Cycleworks sells a reasonably priced remover - about a quarter of what I was quoted for a pro puller.

I have one of those. It works a treat but is starting to wear out. It relies on a sharp edge expanding under the edge of the bearing. Mines got a few chips and has lost a section of the edge so sometimes slips. You have to pull a lot of bearings to wear them out though.

As with a lot of the cycleworks kit it's fine for occasional home use but if you plan on lending them out or a group of you chipping in to buy one I'd pay the extra and buy a pro puller.

I use one of cycleworks gearbox flange pullers, works ok but the weld let rip when I was using it, I ended up smacking my hand into the vice and dropping the gearbox on the floor breaking the case.
I didn't get a reply when I sent the photograph over. You're using some serious pressure when using some of this kit so becarefull.

 

[Beemerboff]

I bought a flange puller from a German Ebay site, made of aluminium and the handle was a 8 mm rod about 120 mm long -- wondered why I was the only bidder at 5 euros

Sad to say it removed the flange on a box I had just had rebuilt - the jerk must have put about 15 ft lbs on the nut. Confirmeed my doudts about his workmanship.

I had to add a few chamfers to the cycleworks tool to get it working, as the expansion of the collar had to move the bearing - there was absoloutly no lip or gap so by the time I was ready to pull the bearing had already moved a mm or two.

 

[jazzmanb]

seem to remember i chickened out and left the "difficult" runner in and just replaced the bearing half.The runner wasnt too bad tbh...

 

[B Murr]

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html also do a puller set. Anyone used them, price similar to cycleworks but wonder about quality.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Fcuk Me Rob how they ever expected that to stick the pace No V groove, no penetration, no root and filler passes ....

It would appear its Very poor quality in the welding dept yet their machined stuff is lovely

I use one of cycleworks gearbox flange pullers, works ok but the weld let rip when I was using it,

 

[Box’a’bits]

Cycleworks gearbox puller

They've changed the design of the gearbox puller now. Bought one a few weeks ago. Don't know that they've got around to updating the website photo though.

 

[cookie]

They've changed the design of the gearbox puller now. Bought one a few weeks ago. Don't know that they've got around to updating the website photo though.

Have you tried it yet? I bought one too, and found the design is a bit wrong. The hole in the handle is very slightly too small to allow the large threaded piece to pass through, which itself doesn't thread into the large nut piece far enough when mounted on the flange.

I rang dan at cycle works and he sorted out new bits, and shipped them over in a few days. Top marks for service

 

[peepingtom]

i use a dermal type tool with cutting disc in. it works fine, just cut through as much as possible before you touch the frame, then tap with a screwdriver to finish it off.
its simple and a cheap copy for £15 will do the job of a £100 dermal .

and it can be used for lots of other stuff too