Last year the TT failed its MOT due to knackered front wheel bearings.
This year’s MOT isn’t due until May, but a quick check recently showed a very notchy steering action with a noticeable self centering tendency - defo a failure. So whilst the weather’s pants it’s time for some new head bearings.
I purchased a set of tapered “All Balls” from Wemoto and set about the job myself.
During the strip down I managed to shear the ABS sensor bolt, M5 steel in the alloy fork bottom, so that requires some attention. Aside from that it came apart easily except for the cap on the top yoke which required a 14mm Allen key (I used a sump key in the end) on a breaker bar to shift.
Noticeable small amount of grease on top and bottom bearings and decent quality Japanese bearings fitted as standard.
Last time I did head bearings was in the 80’s probably so I naively thought I’d be able to knock them out of the head tube easily. No chance. Luigi the designer created a head stock and bearing arrangement where the races are slightly larger ID than the tube, meaning there’s nothing to hit!
The gap between the bearing and the tube step also means a standard removal tool can’t engage!
The shop manual says to use a generic bearing puller, but I think that’s a lie!
Only way to get them out was a Dremmel, which was also used on the steering head to shift the lower Inner race.
Wifey was out tonight so the head went in the freezer and the inner race in the oven for a spell. Using the old race as a drift I’ve got the those sorted.
For the frame I’m waiting for a 55mm bearing drift to arrive tomorrow, bearings are in the freezer and I’ll put the heat gun on the head tube before fitting.
I’m sure doing these in the past on Suzukis was never this much hassle!
This year’s MOT isn’t due until May, but a quick check recently showed a very notchy steering action with a noticeable self centering tendency - defo a failure. So whilst the weather’s pants it’s time for some new head bearings.
I purchased a set of tapered “All Balls” from Wemoto and set about the job myself.
During the strip down I managed to shear the ABS sensor bolt, M5 steel in the alloy fork bottom, so that requires some attention. Aside from that it came apart easily except for the cap on the top yoke which required a 14mm Allen key (I used a sump key in the end) on a breaker bar to shift.
Noticeable small amount of grease on top and bottom bearings and decent quality Japanese bearings fitted as standard.
Last time I did head bearings was in the 80’s probably so I naively thought I’d be able to knock them out of the head tube easily. No chance. Luigi the designer created a head stock and bearing arrangement where the races are slightly larger ID than the tube, meaning there’s nothing to hit!
The gap between the bearing and the tube step also means a standard removal tool can’t engage!
The shop manual says to use a generic bearing puller, but I think that’s a lie!
Only way to get them out was a Dremmel, which was also used on the steering head to shift the lower Inner race.
Wifey was out tonight so the head went in the freezer and the inner race in the oven for a spell. Using the old race as a drift I’ve got the those sorted.
For the frame I’m waiting for a 55mm bearing drift to arrive tomorrow, bearings are in the freezer and I’ll put the heat gun on the head tube before fitting.
I’m sure doing these in the past on Suzukis was never this much hassle!
