Replacing paralever bearings/Yorkshire

Boxergs

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Just had my 1150 in for MOT. Failed on excessive play in rear wheel:(

Now although the bloke is a decent fella, bike enthusiast, rebuilds vintage bikes etc, because it's a BM I thought I'd check on here before replacing main wheel bearing. Good job I did as it would appear that it's the paralever bearings, NOT the wheel bearing. To confirm my suspicions I've just popped down to Rainbow at Rotherham who nicely had a 'feel' :eek: and nodded and agreed it's paralever. I asked if it just needed adjusting but they reckon it 's well shot! 71000m on the bike at the mo.

I didn't bother asking 'How much?' as I'm a bit skint at present and thought I'd try to do it myself. So settled down and did a search on here. It would seem relatively straightforward....but....I'm not that confident and dont have any specialised tools....(hotair gun, torque wrench etc). I use the bike daily and don't wanna be stuck with the bike in bits if I feck it up!

Any advice/suggestions please.:thumb2
So...my question is....does anyone know of any local independants in Yorkshire area who could do the job for a reasonable rate, or should I have a go myself anyway?

I've just rung Rainbow to ask a price for the job and I'm waiting for them to ring back.

To be honest, I'm sticking about 16k a year on her and would feel better if someone who knows what they're doing/looking, for did the job just in case, when it's in bits, further wear/damage is revealed...or am I worrying too much?
 
Just had my 1150 in for MOT. Failed on excessive play in rear wheel:(

Now although the bloke is a decent fella, bike enthusiast, rebuilds vintage bikes etc, because it's a BM I thought I'd check on here before replacing main wheel bearing. Good job I did as it would appear that it's the paralever bearings, NOT the wheel bearing. To confirm my suspicions I've just popped down to Rainbow at Rotherham who nicely had a 'feel' :eek: and nodded and agreed it's paralever. I asked if it just needed adjusting but they reckon it 's well shot! 71000m on the bike at the mo.

I didn't bother asking 'How much?' as I'm a bit skint at present and thought I'd try to do it myself. So settled down and did a search on here. It would seem relatively straightforward....but....I'm not that confident and dont have any specialised tools....(hotair gun, torque wrench etc). I use the bike daily and don't wanna be stuck with the bike in bits if I feck it up!

Any advice/suggestions please.:thumb2
So...my question is....does anyone know of any local independants in Yorkshire area who could do the job for a reasonable rate, or should I have a go myself anyway?

I've just rung Rainbow to ask a price for the job and I'm waiting for them to ring back.

To be honest, I'm sticking about 16k a year on her and would feel better if someone who knows what they're doing/looking, for did the job just in case, when it's in bits, further wear/damage is revealed...or am I worrying too much?

I just changed mine as a part of a complete swing arm stripdown to get at the gearbox output shaft seal - see here:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180313

It wasn't a difficult job, but it was a bit daunting at times because you're dealing with big chunks of bike and several delicate components. Having done it once, I'd do it again without second thought.

However...
I do have the right, decent quality tools and some experience taking bikes and cars to pieces (and mostly getting them back together again ;) ). In addition to the usual spanners etc, you'll need torque wrenches which do from next to nothing (7Nm) to stupid (150Nm) - I've got three to cover the whole range, a hot air gun, a selection of hex and torx bits which you can use with a ratchet / torque wrench. You'll also have to improvise tools to drift out and press in the old / new bearings. On your way, you may well find other things which need attention (other seals etc) and you'd have to order these and wait for them to arrive. You'll also need a selection of greases and gear oil if you change the FD oil at the same time (I did).

I took my time over it - the bike being out of commission for a week or so didn't matter (I stripped it, worked out what parts I needed, ordered them and rebuilt it) and its the sort of job that needs a methodical approach. A mate also gave me some help / moral support (another pair of hands is handy, but not essential, for certain parts of the job)

Given what you say above, in your position, I'd be inclined to get it done by an independent (or perhaps do it with a mate who knows what they're doing / has the tools) - there's a decent chance that it'd take you more than a day, especially if you come across something unforeseen which needs extra parts. Even a main dealer might not be too expensive - paralever bearings are bread and butter to them....
 
As has been said, if your not used to spannering, then take it to someone who is, they are not really hard, but there are a few pitfalls, but you only really need the large spanner, the hex key and a large screwdriver and a socket set oh and of course the heat gun, some thread lock and a few rags, and whoever takes it off, expect to see a little bit of oil in the boot :augie
 
If you want to borrow a puller thingy I made to pull them in square to each other,send me a PM,or if you want to do them in my workshop you're more than welcome.I'm just near Chester if that's any good to you:thumb2
 
Thanks fella's, Rainbow have said £120 labour + parts....

Motorworks have bearings for £15 each. Do I need anything else? Any seals or gaskets or stuff:nenau
I'll change the f/d oil at same time.

Leaning towards asking a mate to gimme a hand and attempt it myself ...but, like you say....what if I come across summat else?.......be stuck then.... Only problem is we're off down Devon middle of next week in the car and straight back to work on our return so I'll have to pickup the bearings on Monday (providing my drive train doesn't disentegrate enroute:eek:) and try to sort summat. How many hours work d'ya reckon?
 
Thanks fella's, Rainbow have said £120 labour + parts....

Motorworks have bearings for £15 each. Do I need anything else? Any seals or gaskets or stuff:nenau
I'll change the f/d oil at same time.

Leaning towards asking a mate to gimme a hand and attempt it myself ...but, like you say....what if I come across summat else?.......be stuck then.... Only problem is we're off down Devon middle of next week in the car and straight back to work on our return so I'll have to pickup the bearings on Monday (providing my drive train doesn't disentegrate enroute:eek:) and try to sort summat. How many hours work d'ya reckon?

No gaskets needed - the only things you could find are either of the FD seals leaking (input or output). output (next to the wheel) is doable, the input is dealer / independant mechanic.

If paralever bearings is all you need - half a day (better with a mate for moral support). Unless you've a very good 'feel' (which I'm not sure if you have - no offence meant), you'll need to beg / borrow a torque wrench that'll do 7Nm (probably 1/4" drive), together with a hex bit to fit the adjustable para pinion. Ideally you'll also need one that'll do 100Nm + to do the fixed pinion and the locknut on the adjustable pinion (big socket - 30mm from memory). You'll also need loctite 270 / 2701 for the pinions. the snag is that the easy / folproof way to do it is to set the adjustable pinion at 7Nm (loctited) and leave it overnight to go off. then you can fit the locknut and torque it without moving the carefully set adjustable pinion.

You'll spend some time heating the pinions to remove them - you must heat them or you'll feck the alloy of the swing arm and you're stuffed. you must also spend time getting the threads in the swingarm (that the pinions screw into) scrupulously clean (with acetone to dissolve the loctite), or you won't get the 7Nm torque accurate and you'll feck your new bearings.

Read up on here and Adventure Rider and read a manual - it'll give you a feel for what's required / needed.

I'll be honest, in your position - I might be inclined to give it to Rainbow...
 
No gaskets needed - the only things you could find are either of the FD seals leaking (input or output). output (next to the wheel) is doable, the input is dealer / independant mechanic.

If paralever bearings is all you need - half a day (better with a mate for moral support). Unless you've a very good 'feel' (which I'm not sure if you have - no offence meant), you'll need to beg / borrow a torque wrench that'll do 7Nm (probably 1/4" drive), together with a hex bit to fit the adjustable para pinion. Ideally you'll also need one that'll do 100Nm + to do the fixed pinion and the locknut on the adjustable pinion (big socket - 30mm from memory). You'll also need loctite 270 / 2701 for the pinions. the snag is that the easy / folproof way to do it is to set the adjustable pinion at 7Nm (loctited) and leave it overnight to go off. then you can fit the locknut and torque it without moving the carefully set adjustable pinion.

You'll spend some time heating the pinions to remove them - you must heat them or you'll feck the alloy of the swing arm and you're stuffed. you must also spend time getting the threads in the swingarm (that the pinions screw into) scrupulously clean (with acetone to dissolve the loctite), or you won't get the 7Nm torque accurate and you'll feck your new bearings.

Read up on here and Adventure Rider and read a manual - it'll give you a feel for what's required / needed.

I'll be honest, in your position - I might be inclined to give it to Rainbow...


No no no, pm Rudimoto, he will sort you out :beerjug:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/member.php?u=1015732
 
Hmmmnn...I'm undecided at the mo but have PM'd Rudiemoto to see if he can fit me in. Although money is tight I don't want to be stuck with the bike in bits and unable to complete the job so we'll see what happens.
 
Just a quickie, I know what you mean abaout pennies being tight, but that £120.00 from Rainbow doesn't sound too bad; I had my output bearing done at Allan Jeferries four years back, and that was £120.00 then.

Had the FD off several times myself; it's not really difficult, as has been said above, beg/steal/borrow a couple of torque wrenches, a manual for a bit of guidence, and half a day or so to take your time. First time I did mine I rode it to Jefferies and got them to check the torque, I think they charged me a tenner.

Oh, and if you have a go yourself, just make sure you've got the correct setting on the torque wrench for the 'fixed' pivot (R/H side). Something went wrong when I was re-fitting my swinging arm last year, setting was way too high (not sure where I got the figure from) and it pushed the centre out of the pivot. No doubt some knowledgeable peeps on here can confirm the setting.Should have asked them myself... :blast
 
Rainbow all booked up till mid May!

Well I decided to bite the bullet and get Rainbow to sort this out...just rang 'em, booked solid till the middle of May! Tried Allan Jefferies at Shipley, they can do it Wed morning:thumb2

So...unless Rudimoto comes back saying he can do it any earlier or I find someone else more local it looks like I'll be sat outside Jefferies first thing Wed morning clutching the plastic card:rolleyes:

Thanks for the replies by the way but I think I'm gonna chicken out of this one.
 
Well I decided to bite the bullet and get Rainbow to sort this out...just rang 'em, booked solid till the middle of May! Tried Allan Jefferies at Shipley, they can do it Wed morning:thumb2

So...unless Rudimoto comes back saying he can do it any earlier or I find someone else more local it looks like I'll be sat outside Jefferies first thing Wed morning clutching the plastic card:rolleyes:

Thanks for the replies by the way but I think I'm gonna chicken out of this one.

Nothing chicken about it - you use the bike daily and need it to be on the road and working. Different kettle of fish, if like me you can afford the time to faff around and learn by your mistakes :D

cheers
M
 
£120+parts means that you can spend £120 on the correct tools to do the job and be in profit at the end of the day - Halfrauds tools are excellent value and quality and have a lifetime warranty. If you have a mechanical savvy mate then he may already have the tools and should be able to help with the job - this is not rocket science, you just need to be methodical, careful and follow the instructions for things like torque settings.

A quote of £120 suggests the dealer expects to take about 2 hours over the job, perhaps 3 depending on his rates. I would have thought that you could do it comfortably in a day.

If you never try you will never learn or advance your knowledge or abilities - we all learn best by stretching ourselves a little. Like playing snooker, you only get better when you play an opponent better than yourself.

I admit I am new to GS ownership and have never attempted this job or know much about it. I would, however, attempt it myself in a heartbeat if I needed to and always buy the correct tools to do jobs myself in preference to getting other people to do things.

Just my take on things. If you need technical help or advice there seems to be no shortage of it here. :)

Chris
 


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