I use a little filter, I let Rob have the last one I did, he may have pics 
Return of the Bumble Bee
- Thread starter (RIP) maverick
- Start date
I've got the filter somewhere. It's a Harley style breather fitted to a piece of 15mm copper tube - I'll try and find it and take a picture.
I needed more airflow to the carbs so fitted the earlier pre 1980 RS airbox and starter motor cover. I've used early breather pipes connected to my original 93 breather tube so had to bin Proffs setup.
I think it was Solo Lobo who simply removed the airbox tubes and fitted a green scouring pad into the bottom of the airbox to soak up the oil.
To be honest I've only ever had gumming problems using Duckhams oil. I run Millers 20/50 at the minute and even making frequent short trips it's fine. I try and do a couple of decent runs a week to get everything up to temperature and burn off any moisture. I also change the oil every 3k
I needed more airflow to the carbs so fitted the earlier pre 1980 RS airbox and starter motor cover. I've used early breather pipes connected to my original 93 breather tube so had to bin Proffs setup.
I think it was Solo Lobo who simply removed the airbox tubes and fitted a green scouring pad into the bottom of the airbox to soak up the oil.
To be honest I've only ever had gumming problems using Duckhams oil. I run Millers 20/50 at the minute and even making frequent short trips it's fine. I try and do a couple of decent runs a week to get everything up to temperature and burn off any moisture. I also change the oil every 3k
From the temps I saw on my oil filler temp gauge I don't think you get much condensation in an airhead, that doesn't have an oil cooler, as long as you do longer than 15 min runs.
If really worried, take it up a 2000m climb to really boil off any muck
If really worried, take it up a 2000m climb to really boil off any muck
I will clean and strip the carbs this weekend and also check the airbox if there is any gunk at the bottom of it.
Funny thing last night when I got home, stopped at an angle like always do. Pushed the bike back a bit with the clutch in and then realised the angle is wrong to get into the garage. Selected 1st gear to move forward a bit. Then when I tried to go back to neutral the thing is stuck
Switched the bike off looked at the gear lever and the bloody thing has torn on the sides hanging on the last piece of metal
WTF!! Had I done one more gear change on my way home would of been buggered and the best is I am really nursing the bike overall not being heavy handed or anything
Maybe it just does not want to be ridden anymore
So another thing to sort out this weekend but on the plus side came into work with the HP2 today - holy crap
Nearly needed to smoke afterwards 
Funny thing last night when I got home, stopped at an angle like always do. Pushed the bike back a bit with the clutch in and then realised the angle is wrong to get into the garage. Selected 1st gear to move forward a bit. Then when I tried to go back to neutral the thing is stuck
Switched the bike off looked at the gear lever and the bloody thing has torn on the sides hanging on the last piece of metal
WTF!! Had I done one more gear change on my way home would of been buggered and the best is I am really nursing the bike overall not being heavy handed or anything
Maybe it just does not want to be ridden anymore
So another thing to sort out this weekend but on the plus side came into work with the HP2 today - holy crap
Nearly needed to smoke afterwards Jaqhama
Guest
I'd like to take this oppotunity to publicly thank Maverick for all his help and generosity when Lin and I were in the UK. 
And that thanks now continues as he tries so hard to get the damned Bumblebee back into action.
(Did you get my email about the tiny gaskets under the plastic Bing logo's on the carbs, Mav?)
I once removed them on a 650 and they were badly damaged, the idling was fine when I replaced them.
Can't send Mav and his wife enough best wishes.
Cheers: Jaq.
Lin=
And that thanks now continues as he tries so hard to get the damned Bumblebee back into action.
(Did you get my email about the tiny gaskets under the plastic Bing logo's on the carbs, Mav?)
I once removed them on a 650 and they were badly damaged, the idling was fine when I replaced them.
Can't send Mav and his wife enough best wishes.
Cheers: Jaq.
Lin=
Here to help
..I can't see a balance pipe on your exhaust down pipes ?
If there isn't one that could most likely be the cause of your idling problem.
I use a little filter, I let Rob have the last one I did, he may have pics
Fit a rover 800 oil breather filter ( nice and small takes up no room) in the crankcase breather tube - also stops oil consumption on 300K mile K75 engines
did someone say carb cleaning ?
Here to help
I can't see a balance pipe on your exhaust down pipes ? - There isn't one it is fitted with new keihan downpipes + no cat box either
If there isn't one that could most likely be the cause of your idling problem. - You mean non idling problem
I haven't had time to check all the variety of things as yet and seems if you fiddle to much with the original (standard) design it is a hard act to complete and get right again. Unfortunately we cannot chuck more money towards this bike at the moment as it needs to find a new home/owner again shortly. Jaq won't return to the UK in the very near future and myself just don't have the money to buy and sort it properly again. It won't take much but just the right bike at the wrong time scenario
Jaq + Lin - hopefully next time you get to see more than the Island and Paris
fayeslane
Registered user
did someone say carb cleaning ?
This also works with an inexpensive sand blaster gun. Have you tried wet blasting with bicarb soda? Need to agitate it to keep it mixed but gives a nice finish. Also no dust.
Bicarb soda is available from swimming pool shops in 20 kg bags and cheap.
Good way of putting a nice finish on a motor/drive train without removing it from the frame -yes lots of clean up required afterwards
Solo Lobo
Registered user
Took a day off today to try and sort the BumbleBee out as I just don't get around doing it otherwise.
Took the carbs of and cleaned them one at a time not to mix up parts or do something incredibly stupid
Very dirty as you can see
I did the small mod on the airbreather for time being as it seems to have caused majority of the mess in the carbs
All the parts nicely cleaned up with lots of WD40 and compressed air blowing every possibly airpassage clean/open.
When I got to the left hand side carburettor and took out the air pilot screw noticed there is no little spring on it like the right hand side - is it suppose to be like this My guess is it at some point the carb was stripped and cleaned and the the spring never put back
So got the whole lot cleaned up and back together. Set the stop screws exactly the same and the freeplay in the cables. The bike fired up very quickly and much easier than before I locked the throttle and balanced the carbs at higher revs (don't have a rev counter so reckon around 3000 rpm).
I then tried to set the idling with the air pilot screws and still no luck. When I rev the bike the pickup is immediate and smooth where before it was ver vibey and would not pick up quickly. Turning the pilot screws in make the bike idle slower until it stops. But turning them out does not increase the idling enough where it will idle on it's own when you let go of the throttle
Neil commented that the idling could be affected by the fact there is no balance pipe - would this affect it so badly that it is near impossible to get it to idle at all whether fast or barely ticking over?
Would the missing spring have such a big influence on idling
Am I doing something completely wrong in the sequence of setting the idling
Want to take the bike for a MOT as this has expired and put some tax on it as well, not sure if they will pass a non idling motorcycle
Took the carbs of and cleaned them one at a time not to mix up parts or do something incredibly stupid
Very dirty as you can see
I did the small mod on the airbreather for time being as it seems to have caused majority of the mess in the carbs
All the parts nicely cleaned up with lots of WD40 and compressed air blowing every possibly airpassage clean/open.
When I got to the left hand side carburettor and took out the air pilot screw noticed there is no little spring on it like the right hand side - is it suppose to be like this
My guess is it at some point the carb was stripped and cleaned and the the spring never put back So got the whole lot cleaned up and back together. Set the stop screws exactly the same and the freeplay in the cables. The bike fired up very quickly and much easier than before
I locked the throttle and balanced the carbs at higher revs (don't have a rev counter so reckon around 3000 rpm).I then tried to set the idling with the air pilot screws and still no luck. When I rev the bike the pickup is immediate and smooth where before it was ver vibey and would not pick up quickly. Turning the pilot screws in make the bike idle slower until it stops. But turning them out does not increase the idling enough where it will idle on it's own when you let go of the throttle
Neil commented that the idling could be affected by the fact there is no balance pipe - would this affect it so badly that it is near impossible to get it to idle at all whether fast or barely ticking over?
Would the missing spring have such a big influence on idling
Am I doing something completely wrong in the sequence of setting the idling
Want to take the bike for a MOT as this has expired and put some tax on it as well, not sure if they will pass a non idling motorcycle
I ordered new air pilot screws + o-rings and some gaskets for the carbs. Will fit this before giving it another bash this weekend. Reckon I might have been to light handed in setting the idle stop screws so fingers crossed 
i think you've got an air leak somewhere.
classic symptom is high idle on the stops and falls to zero with a fiddle with the screws.
could be inlet rubbers or worn carb slides / diaphragms etc
classic symptom is high idle on the stops and falls to zero with a fiddle with the screws.
could be inlet rubbers or worn carb slides / diaphragms etc
The rubbers/diaphragms are all ok I checked them and in good order. The slides have wear on the sides which I was actually thinking of taking a very fine paper and smooth them out first as they could stick.
For some reason I got confused and was thinking the idling can be set purely by the pilot screws but realise now I should of set idling by the stop screws until balanced and idling, then adjust the air intake screws until it is correct or close as dammit followed by a cable synch in the cable adjusters - think this is the correct sequence of events
Done ALOT of reading the last two days and think it is down to user error and not being patient enough
Will see how I get on the weekend so fingers crossed. Normally balancing these things are pretty straight forward unfortunately when you start from scratch with not everyday experience it becomes a bit more interesting and time consuming.
After the cleaning the pickup and drop of revs are immediate and "normal" as one would expect. Just getting the bugger to idle the same time would be nice
Right I have replaced the following items:
Air pilot screws + o-rings + springs
Fuel Bowl Gaskets
Air intake screws
Top cap screws
The bike now does respond to the screwdriver finally and got it to idle
It is still a bit rough and not 100% although it does pick up and drop off as it should with not sticky revs
Going to take it for a MOT next week and hopefully can fine tune it once I can ride down the road legally and warm up the motor more naturally than standing at one place idling. Not sure if it is my imagination but since I replaced the float bowl gaskets it also started easier
Air pilot screws + o-rings + springs
Fuel Bowl Gaskets
Air intake screws
Top cap screws
The bike now does respond to the screwdriver finally and got it to idle
It is still a bit rough and not 100% although it does pick up and drop off as it should with not sticky revs
Going to take it for a MOT next week and hopefully can fine tune it once I can ride down the road legally and warm up the motor more naturally than standing at one place idling. Not sure if it is my imagination but since I replaced the float bowl gaskets it also started easier
Wohooo BumbleBee past it's MOT yesterday although still running a smidge rough but idling
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