Ride Report: Island Hopping: a five day Scottish tour

[retroman]

Back in 2020 I got a copy of John Ferguson's excellent book The Motorcyclists Guide to Scotland. Although I've been north of the border several times before, it was always on well-trodden paths, and I felt I've been missing out.

My son-in-law, Hayden, had never ridden in Scotland so it was time to address this. We only had a week so I worked out an itinerary and some vague routes using John's book, and paper maps.

Hayden lives in Hampshire whilst I live in Cardiff. We decided to meet up in Moffat on the Sunday evening for five days of exploration.

Day One Cardiff-Bala via Lake Vrynwy (me only): As 250 miles a day is my comfortable limit, I rode Cardiff-Bala on the Saturday and stayed at the White Lion in the centre of town. Obviously lots of bikers use this place, judging by the wardrobe provision!



I always use the CAMRA guide for drinking purposes and the only entry for Bala is Y Stori, a bottle shop with brewery and bar attached.

 

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Day Two: Bala to Moffat. A day of mixed fortunes which did not begin well!! Although I did manage a bracing walk on the shore of Lake Bala.

I'd put in a Waypoint for the Horseshoe Pass on Basecamp but foolishly did not check the route beforehand. I was well on the way to Llangollen when the GPS took me down a little lane. At first it looked fine, and as it was only 1.5 miles long I decided to persevere. Big mistake: tarmaced lane > tarmaced lane with grass down the middle> steep rough stone and rutted track!! Possibly THE worst lane I've ever taken my 1150 down, fully loaded and I was riding alone. Nowhere to turn and I would have dropped the bleddy thing if I'd tried.

I kept it in first and managed to paddle my way through. At the end I had a dry mouth and was sweating like a midget Nun at a penguin shoot.

The photo does not give an accurate impression of this bastard of a lane. I couldn't leap off at the worst bit for a photo as I would still be there.

 

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Having escaped North Wales, the plan was a quick blast up the M6 to Moffat, arriving with ample time for an afternoon bimble around the Southern Uplands.

I had not bargained for the total farce that was the M6 that day. At 0700 on that Sunday morning, a milk tanker had gone onto its side and through the central reservation. Result: M6 closed Jct 31-33 in both directions. I went via Clitheroe and the A65 towards Kendal. Normally a joy of a road - but not with all the motorway traffic in both directions!

I'd 'phoned Hayden at Clitheroe and he ended up on the same diversion. The only saving grace was the wonderful (and empty) A683 from Kirkby Lonsdale towards Sedbergh and ultimately the M6 at Jct 37 for a clear run north.

In the event I arrived at 16:00, two and a half hours late, completely knackered and desparate for a beer.

We stayed at the fantastic Buccleuch Arms Hotel in Moffat, which will be well-known to many on here. After a warm welcome from David and his team, Hayden arrived at about 16:45.

After a quick shower and change: time for dinner. The best beef pie I've ever had.



More to follow soon.

 

[retroman]

PS here's the website for the Buccleuch:

The Buccleuch Hotel and Restaurant | in Moffat, Scotland

The Buccleuch nestles in a picturesque valley surrounded by the rolling Moffat Hills, Southern Scotland, with an award winning restaurant and accommodation.

www.buccleucharmshotel.com

Be warned, there is another hotel of the same name on the other side of Scotland and if you've never been it's easy to book yourself into the wrong hotel. I managed this, of course. Fortunately I realised my mistake ten minutes after booking. When I 'phoned to apologise and cancel the owner replied (with an air of resignation), "don't worry we get this all the time".

Indeed, at the correct Buccleuch I was told that bikers regularly turn up, cold, tired and expecting to stay, only to be told that the hotel is full and their ACTUAL booking is some miles distant ....!!

 

[Davey B]

North of the border 20 years ago...June 2003

 

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North of the border 20 years ago...June 2003

Blimey! A lot has changed over the intervening years ... except my bike!! Still the same horse, Dave
No walking this time, either

 

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Day 3: Moffat to Oban

H and I had booked two nights in a holiday chalet on the outskirts of Oban. We had been warned by our hosts beforehand of a problem with Midges and Cleggs this year, so came armed with bottles of Avon Skin So Soft and a Midge hat each. In the event, we timed our tour just right. The only insects we saw were squished on the front of the bikes.

Before we left Moffat, David enquired as to our intended route to Oban. I had something in mind going straight up the middle, but David went off to his office and produced this exceptional route. He even loaded it into my ZUMO ... the sort of service you can expect at the Buccleuch. We are already planning our return in 2024!!



Wanlockhead, highest village in Scotland at 1,531 ft.



After an exhilarating cross-country route via Largs, we arrived at Hop One: McInroy's Point (Gourock) to Dunoon.



The weather was superb, warm with a stiff breeze. Once off the ferry, at Holy Loch we stopped for a coffee & sandwich on the harbour edge. My Cappucino was superb - Alpine standard.


David had advised us that the A815 from Dunoon alongside Loch Fyne (up to the junction with the A83 at Glen Kinglas) is one of the best biking roads in the country in his opinion, and I can only agree. A truly magnificent road, no photos sadly, I was too busy enjoying myself

We followed the A83 to Inverary and turned right for the A819 towards Oban. A tad moist hereabouts, but nothing could dampen our spirits. Motorcycling at it's very best.




And so to Oban. Our directions to the Chalet did feature this unusual Waypoint:



Sure enough:

 

[Smartbazza]

Great report, keep it coming, literally a Husky sleeping!

Barry

 

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Day 3 (continued): Oban

The last time I visited Oban was 1986, when I took this photo ... apart from motorcycles and real ale, my other weakness used to be riding behind vintage diesel railway locomotives, principally of the English Electric variety. My photo is dated by the cars on the left: and how I do love a pair of 37s ( ... spare a thought for poor H, who has to put up with me wibbling on about these things at any given opportunity). All this is now long-gone, sadly.

Anyway, I digress! Oban has indeed changed considerably since my last visit, but we received a very warm welcome from our hosts at Dunard Chalet. I'd recommend this place without hesitation: a two bedroomed chalet overlooking the town with a fab view from the verandah, absolutely ideal as an exploration base. Found via Booking.com.
And this ....
Into town (15 minute down hill walk) for provisions, beer and food. The Oban Inn for a pint of Fynes ....
By this stage I was severely in need of shellfish. Cuan Mor restaurant on the harbour did not disappoint. A huge steaming pot full of Mussells in white wine, shallots, garlic and cream ... and I scoffed the lot. Steak for H. Taxi to the Husky, please!

He's awake! But now, it's time to turn in for the night.

 

[Orinoco]

Enjoying this, keep it coming

 

[gerarddwatts]

Dave and family are indeed in a class apartat Moffat...always happy to recommend a stay there. Did you see the dog top box on his 1250?
Don't forget the green shed on the harbour for your sangwiches....

 

[retroman]

Dave and family are indeed in a class apartat Moffat...always happy to recommend a stay there. Did you see the dog top box on his 1250?
Don't forget the green shed on the harbour for your sangwiches....

Hi Gerrard,
Yes we saw the topbox, absolute genius will get a photo on the next visit ...
I've heard of the green shed but didn't visit on this occassion. Another excuse to return.

 

[gerarddwatts]

Day 3 (continued): Oban

The last time I visited Oban was 1986, when I took this photo ... apart from motorcycles and real ale, my other weakness used to be riding behind vintage diesel railway locomotives, principally of the English Electric variety. My photo is dated by the cars on the left: and how I do love a pair of 37s ( ... spare a thought for poor H, who has to put up with me wibbling on about these things at any given opportunity). All this is now long-gone, sadly.
View attachment 272665
Anyway, I digress! Oban has indeed changed considerably since my last visit, but we received a very warm welcome from our hosts at Dunard Chalet. I'd recommend this place without hesitation: a two bedroomed chalet overlooking the town with a fab view from the verandah, absolutely ideal as an exploration base. Found via Booking.com.View attachment 272666
And this ....View attachment 272667
Into town (15 minute down hill walk) for provisions, beer and food. The Oban Inn for a pint of Fynes ....View attachment 272668
By this stage I was severely in need of shellfish. Cuan Mor restaurant on the harbour did not disappoint. A huge steaming pot full of Mussells in white wine, shallots, garlic and cream ... and I scoffed the lot. Steak for H. Taxi to the Husky, please!
View attachment 272675
He's awake! But now, it's time to turn in for the night.
View attachment 272676

I see they left a bottle of Lagavulin for you...only a real connoisseur would enjoy this pefect dram....many an innocent civilian would not....

 

[retroman]

Day 4: Oban to Oban via the Isle of Mull, Ardnamurchan Point, Mallaig and Fort William

Every minute of the trip so far past the Anglo/Scottish border had been a gift that kept on giving, but we didn't realise how much better things were about to get.

Breakfast at the Chalet was Retro-cooked bacon rolls washed down with strong coffee before dropping the panniers and excess weight on the bikes, and riding to Oban for the morning CalMac departure to Craignure, Isle of Mull. A word about the ferries: I booked all bar our first hop online via the CalMac website and printed the tickets. A quick scan of the QR code on each crossing and we were on with no fuss. All ferries ran to time. Our joint experience was excellent.

This beast is the Isle of Mull. Very big, very comfortable crossing for Hop 2: Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull).



At this point we were pleased we dropped the panniers.

Time to take the sea air with a coffee. A lovely cruise along the Sound of Mull.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Great report
Lovely bike

 

[gerarddwatts]

When the weather smiles on you, there is nowhere better....even better when Calmac smiles upon you also!

 

[retroman]

Great report

Thanks JB glad you are enjoying.

Isle of Mull

In retrospect I think Mull was the highlight of this trip. The weather was superb. The roads, virtually empty. Road surfaces were in good condition and although single track all the way, 99% of other road users obeyed the rules of the Island and pulled in to allow us to overtake (... the 1% was a dickhead from the Netherlands in a red Nissan, but we smoked him PDQ ...!).

Did I mention the Golden Eagles?

Anyway, let the pictures do the talking. From Craignure we headed north on the A849 to Salen, thence around the coast to Tobermory via the simply stunning B8073 via Calgary. Words fail me. I shall return to clear up the remaining roads in due course, God willing.

 

[retroman]

And more.





Hop 3: Tobermory (Isle of Mull) to Kilchoan (Mainland)

Hayden is a thoughtful man of few words. When he is happy, he makes this gesture. I saw a lot of this on our trip

 

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When the weather smiles on you, there is nowhere better....even better when Calmac smiles upon you also!

We did consider how different our situation would have been if it had been blowing a gale and pouring with rain. Our contingency was to sit in the Oban Inn all day, and get howling drunk with the locals. Thankfully this did not come to pass!

 

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H captured this Golden (suggested Sea?) Eagle pouncing on prey in the reeds. I'll never forget this moment
More to follow tomorrow.