Riding Scotlands North Coast road - 2nd week of September

lmg

lmg

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I am planning on riding Scotlands North Coast road in the 2nd week of September - roughly this route:

nc500.JPG


I am looking for good ideas for:

- recommended places to camp (either wild or paid-for)
- recommended "points of interest" along or reasonably near the route
- If there are any really recommended guest houses, B&Bs, hostels then offer them up
- brew/food stops worth dropping in on

Finally, if there are any people on the route who want to meet up for a natter over a cuppa, shout.
 
I live north of London but come from the north of Scotland, I know the route and it is brilliant. However it misses out some even better routes which are nearby or on the way up. You can go up Loch Lomond, Glen Coe, Fort William, Mallaig, Isle of Skye and Applecross. I'm going this weekend and have the benefit if my best friend living in Oban, my sister living on the North Coast and my parents in Inverness. A word of warning watch the A9, it is heavily conjested, average speed cameras and lots of crashes.
 
I did roughly the same trip a month back, have a look here for my wee write up http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/405490-A-wee-trip-to-Orkney-and-down-the-west-coast there may be something in there....

As it has been said going north to Inverness and the start of the route, try and avoid the A9. At Perth take the A93 and head for Braemar, then the A939 for The Lecht, Tomintoul and Nairn then hang a left for Inverness - far better roads than the A9.

There are loads of campsites all along this route - have a look at http://www.scottishcampingguide.com/ for sites and information. I have never booked any camping in Scotland and have always managed to get a pitch and remember you can wild camp in Scotland if you prefer that to sites or can't get a commercial pitch. There is really good campsites at Durness, Ullapool and Applecross.

A quick detour to Dunnet head is worthwhile, for the rest just plan in plenty of time to enjoy the views! Have a look at http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/ to help find points of interest along the way.

Enjoy!
 
I did almost the same trip a couple of weeks ago. But I stayed in Hotels because I'm such a softy wuss.
I stayed at Inverness Youth hostel and it was truly crap. I normally like Youth Hostels but this one was not normal. It was dirty, noisy, the staff were offhand and rude, a bad experience. *
Next I stayed at The Bettyhill Hotel (north coast) that was just brilliant. Very friendly, good food etc. etc. Thoroughly recommended. *****
Then I stayed at the Aultguish Inn near Garve that was pretty good and I'd stay there again.****
From there It was on to Loch Lomond Arms Hotel, that was good but a little pricy (I guess because it is near Glasgow on a tourist route)***
Then at the Tan Hill Inn in Yorkshire Dales on the way home. Brilliant. *****

Glenmorangie Distillery was a good visit (the best distillery I visited) that is near Tain just north of Inverness and on your route. Try the Nectar-D'or whisky mmmmm :jager
Near Durness there is Cocoa Mountain www.cocoamountain.co.uk, a brilliant Chocolate shop and a place that will cut your hair and give you a full massage believe it or not (don't think they do specials....and it's a bloke)(before people ask, I didn't try the massage)
There is loads of nice little pubs and shops etc.as well.


 
Few tips from my many visits oop north...

Go to Achiltibuie (north of Ulapool) for lunch at the Achiltibuie Inn - Great food with views across to The Summer Isles.

You'll also pass alongside Stac Pollaidh which itself is a magnificent feature.

When in Durness ensure you visit Smoo Cave and then the old churchyard back towards the golf club where you'll find the grave of a murderer entombed in what was the Priest's house - apparently they wouldn't allow him to be buried on sacred ground as he was a murderer so the Priest said 'put him in my hoose!'

There's also café/small business at the old RAF barracks - ask for the special cake:D

Travelling south from Durness on the A838 around Loch Eriboll there's an underground prehistoric dwelling - marked on the side of the road by 2 x small cairns - you'll have to park up and walk a very short distance and take a torch!

Cheap and very cheerful accommodation in old refurbished railway carriages at Rogart too:

http://www.sleeperzzz.com/rogart.html
 
As you go North or South - a must-not-miss road I re-found this summer (after 25 years!) is the A86 between Spean Bridge and the A9. Either direction is fantastic, particularly the western end (bends without end (almost)).

Enjoy God's Country.

A
 
Just be aware there is a severe clampdown on speeding just now. We were in Ullapool at the weekend. There was the usual speed traps on the A84, A85 from Stirling up to Tyndrum but it wasn't at the usual location it was everyone of them. The traffic was flowing around 45mph which made for slow progress and the camera vans were positioned on the straights where it was safe to overtake.

The Fort William camera van was positioned for vehicles coming into the 30 limit on the north side of the town. We also passed an unmarked 3 series saloon on the road just north of Achnasheen.

It's possible I just noticed because I'm not usually out at the weekends but I've never seen so many traffic dept cars out at the same time on those roads.

It could also be a by product of the promotion of "The North Coast 500" as a tourist route or the last weekend before all the school kids go back but if this is going to be the norm for these roads it doesn't bode well. We took a couple of alternative roads which are usually traffic free and still got caught up.

Anyway it's still a great route with outstanding views and eateries. My one recommendation would be that if you know it's to be a good day get up early. Sunrise in the north west is spectacular.
 
Strangely I've just done approx 500 miles all round that area all weekend and never seen a scamera van or police the whole time I was there. Giess I'll have to await on the dreaded letter(s) falling through or not as may be the case.
 
I must admit to a north west bias but these are some of my thoughts...

I would consider doing the route anti clockwise i.e. north from Inverness up the A9 coast as you get better views especially travelling down the west.
North of Dingwall, take the B817 at Evanton and join the A949 which takes you up the heights with great views of the Cromarty and Dornoch Firths. Follow road to Bonar Bridge then east to re-join the A9. adds a wee bit to the journey but well worth it.
After leaving John O Groats travelling west on A836 to Betty Hill take detour to Dunnet Head which is the most northerly mainland point on the UK.

Travelling down west coast from Durness there is a x-boat memorial at Kylesku bridge car park along with some spectacular views.

South of Kylesku take to B869 single track coast road and meander through Drumbeg, Clashnessie, Clachtol, on the way to Lochinver (famous pie shop for those with deep pockets). From Lochinver you can take the main A837 to Ledmore then south to Ullapool on the A835 or take the road which starts up at the harbour end of the village to Inverkirkaig and on to Achiltibuie settlements a challenging single track road!!). There is a good loop route here which brings you back at the starting point and takes you past the Furan bar and campsite just past Polbain.

Heading east out of Ullapool on A835 for 12 miles then take the A832 road through Dunndonnel, Laide, Aultbea (WW2 gun emplacements and information), Poolewe, Gairloch to Kinlochewe. (worth popping up the single track roads heading west at Laide to Mellon Udrigle beach, at Poolewe to Cove (WW2 Russian convoy memorial). Follow road from Kinlochewe to Torridon, Sheildaig and the coastroad to Applecross then over to Lochcarron by the pass. On the way back to Inverness, a stop off at the Blue Ocean food wagon at Garve village hall is recommended.

Petrol- Petrol stations all reachable on the North and West coast roads BUT limited on Sunday. Tongue and Durness may be closed on Sundays but 24 hour fuel credit/debit cards) at Scourie , Applecross and Lochcarron (also I think at Gairloch). On the west there is fuel at Lochinver, Ullapool, the Dundonnel hotel, Laide post office,Gairloch and Kinlochewe.

Plenty of good campsites along the way e.g. Durness, Scourie, Ullapool, Polbain, Poolewe, Gairloch, Kinlochewe, Applecross.

B+Bs in Ullapool such as Ladysmith Guest House, Riverside. Good accommodation at the Arch Inn.

Anyway that's my bit. PM me if you want to pop in for a coffee in Ullapool.
 
Clachtoll campsite is fine. Lovely sunsets if you are lucky. I you want a roof over your head, go to Achmelvich around the corner to the SYHA hostel but book a bed first. It's a wee place but overlooks a fantastic beach / cove. Go midweek though as it can be busy at weekends. May be quieter in September of course. Consider a couple of detours into Strathnaver. There are some well preserved brochs and other Pictish remains in the area. The north west is also a geological park with lots of info boards about some of the oldest rocks on earth and the mountians they eventually formed with a bit of help from glaciers etc. The reason the Polis are active at the moment is connect with a fairly high body count this summer across Scotland. The roads in the area attract their fair share of point and squirt merchants. Take your time and enjoy.
 
Police Scotland were having one of their periodic road safety awareness weekends (Aug 15-16) so will have been out in force in the more popular or accident prone areas. Had a lovely Sunday riding minor roads with no police in sight; even they can't be everywhere at once.
 
Police Scotland were having one of their periodic road safety awareness weekends (Aug 15-16) so will have been out in force in the more popular or accident prone areas. Had a lovely Sunday riding minor roads with no police in sight; even they can't be everywhere at once.

Lochinver to Achiltibuie - some great wee single track hugs the coast. As West Coast Traveller says - plenty of choices for slow or more progressive riding. Of ocurse you don't need to follw the coast all the way round. There are some lovely cross country routes from Bettyhill or Helmsdale - Altnabreac, Altnaharra, Crask Inn.
 
Originally from Mallaig, speaking to friends at the weekend who mentioned the police around Fort William were out in force. Unmarked white BMW pulling bikers and checking them.
Don't forget the 'Skin So Soft'!:thumb
 
Keep meaning to do this run and I live on it, (Thurso), there is a good seafront campsite here. 4th to 6th September there is an Adventure Bike Rider rally on at Ullapool, don't know what numbers are expected but I plan to go for the saturday night as working friday night.
 
sethmopp said:
Keep meaning to do this run and I live on it, (Thurso), there is a good seafront campsite here. 4th to 6th September there is an Adventure Bike Rider rally on at Ullapool, don't know what numbers are expected but I plan to go for the saturday night as working friday night.
Click to expand...

im aware of the ABR Ullapool rally, however I am in Wales 1st - 6th Sept and am departing for Scotland on the 7th for 5-7 days. Its a shame as I hear that the ABR Ulla rally is quite a good one.
 
You could spend a night at the Crask Inn, a world apart from what you may be used to. Or camp nearby and have a drink there.
Somewhere different, I like it.
 
Excellent route , did it one way in july and opposite in August!
Made a vid was blessed with the weather :thumb2
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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