Road to Damascus

[Pathologic]

A 21 day tour with 4 mad Croatians to Syria and Lebanon.

The facts:

just under 7,000 miles (11,000 km)
1 R1200GS SE (mine)
1 R1200GSA (Danilo of this parish)
3 Suzuki Versys (they are all right I suppose )

16 countries. 3 long border crossings (with no obvious rules) and many shorter ones
Lots of insurances I will never need.
2 speeding tickets
Lots of fun

What's not on the menu

No list of filling stations
No photos of food or Hotels, unless the bikes are featured
No great list of roads travelled

What I hope to give you
A brief overview of the trip and riders
The low (low) down on Syrian and Lebanese border crossings (in the middle East Section)
A report peppered with amazing people and some amazing locations.
A glimpse of how easy it is to go a very long way
Lots of praise for my GS which didn't miss a beat and is running better than ever!

Don't hold your breath, but I will try to start our story very soon. I am still smiling just thinking about it

Regards,

Path

 

[Slowdown]

I want to do this, so good luck and keep posting!

 

[ExpatinIstanbul]

Did you have to pay?

 

[Stevie73]

looking forward to this.....

 

[Twotter]

FFS, hurry up because I'm holding my breathhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....

 

[Pathologic]

Brief introduction

We crossed the Bosphorus in rush hour traffic. A mixture of confusion, fear and anger. How do you make sense of the Turks. Since we left the border we have been made very welcome. The petrol attendants provide free tea and want to know how fast the bikes go, truckers and car drivers pip their horns and wave. Then you suddenly find that there is a 4x4 nearly in your top box flashing to get you to move.As we approach Instanbul the wind rises and the traffic become ever more chaotic. What is it with these people.

We have to ride like loons to stay together, eventually resorting to the hard shoulder with hazard lights flashing to gain a respite from the mayhem. Trying to get through the toll booths with only large denomination dollars proves difficult. Euros are better. Then suddenly there is the bridge and we are in Asia!!

We stop on the hard shoulder and slap backs. It feels so good to have come so far.....

So how did I end up here with 4 Croatians I had met on the internet? I seemed to have done everything that I warned my children never to do. There were many possible outcomes of this journey, but here we were living a dream.

For those who don't know me, I am on my third GS ( fourth if my wife allows me to count hers). I have always loved BM's and the GS allows me to satify my curiosity for small roads with grass down the middle, whilst still being very practical. I have done some european trips, but nothing on the scale of this trip. The urge to do something has been fed by the reports on this site and my increasing confidence with these big bikes.

But why Syria? Well, in 2008 I watched my younger daughter go through security for a plane to Beirut. She was headed for a year out in a Lebanese school 1200 metres up in the Chouf mountains. It was the hardest thing I have ever done. The following Easter we went to see her and understood her pasion for the people and place. The only blot on the trip was that I didn't have my bike. The roads, the traffic and scenery were made for big trailies. I wanted to go back, but how?

Then Danilo of this parish posted an open invite last November for a tour of Turkey, Syria and Lebanon. I had hoped to be one of several Englishmen daft enough to take him up on the trip, but that didn't turn out to be the case. So plans were made and destinations agreed.

The plan was for me to ride down to Zagreb, meet up with the others, then drive across Croatia, Bulgaria, Turkey and reach Syria in 3 or 4 days. We would visit Aleppo, Palmyra and some other sites in Syria, spend two days in Damascus, two or three days in Lebanon when I would deliver some books to the school and meet my wife PhysioJo. Then we would turn for home and stop in a few places in Turkey on the way back and enter Greece. I was undecided whether to take the ferry from igoumenitsa to Ancona or travel back with the others to Croatia and then home. But that could be left til later!!

So the date of departure was set for 13 April......(to be continued).

 

[Danilo]

Well done Nigelius! Let me just add few corrections: Pathologic rode GS 1200 with a tiny, tiny reservoir of fuel which has been slowing down the progress by at least 100 km in comparison to the others. Mine GSA always had an abundance of fuel which at an average speed of 90 km/h gives you the range of minimum 550 km (I have never drained the reservoir completely and with a very whimsical calculations provided by the board computer, it has always showed while I have been refueling because of Pathologic's handicapped bike D), that refueling after having covered the range of ca 300 km, I still have had fuel for another 400 km) ; the others Mladen, Nenad and Filip had phenomenal Suzuki V Stroms 650 cc that hold 23 liters of fuel which bikes at the same average speed easily cover 450 kms. Also, although it had been a Internet meeting, I did have a need to get to know Pathologic a little closer cool, so I sat on my bike in March and drove to London (from Zagreb) to meet him and evaluate were there any immanent perils with which Pathologic might infect the RTD project. Glad to say now, after spending with this guy 15 days through storms, sand and numerous border crossings, that within our dysfunctional group his contribution has been warmth, caring and tolerance. One should bear in mind that, having been immersed in the group of Croatians of which he had met only one - me during our short meeting in London, it has not been an easy mission for Path to be himself for the duration of this adventure . The group dynamics is another quite relevant topic for those who are contemplating of undertaking something similar. Hope to give some thoughts on that as Path's report will continue.

 

[simondippenhall]

Gentlemen

I am looking forward to this exciting story!

 

[Ash]

more more

 

[Pathologic]

Corrections accepted

Danilo is right. My GS was the thirstiest of the bunch. I have a low opinion of the range and fuel gauge and preferred to fill up early rather than risk disaster. 150 - 170 miles (around 350 km) was my limit. I might add that my bladder capcity does not comfortably stretch beyond that I came to the realisation that I was unnecessarily pessimistic about range. The best I did was 230 miles with a couple of litres in hand.

Danilo and Filipe needed to maintain nicotine levels, which cut our range to 200km at times. Its all part of life's rich tapistry.

 

[Pathologic]

OK here goes

I have had the priviledge to read many ride reports on here and to enjoy lots of different styles. I am sure I will use some different voices in this report, but I am searching for my own.

When I travel, my greatest memories of the people I meet. So this report will tell the journey by focusing on the people we met or observed. I am not sure it will work. I will try to give enough to give it context. As we travelled I kept a note of what we did and (separately) those who we met. I asked for a lot of names (even border guards soometimes ). So lets begin with....

Me

The first few days were alone. The preparation for departure was not manic, there were too many other things to do. The bike was serviced and (with Danilo's assistance) arrangements made for a set on Anakee 2 to be waiting for me in Zagreb (there was only 1.6 mm left on the rear when I left London). We had agreed to take camping gear (no cooking gear) in case we fancies a desert sunrise ( did anyone bring a shovel?). This made space tight. To this was added 10Kg of books, so the rear seat was occupied.

I had to leave at the end of a normal working day with a meeting in it. So I tried to focus on plans and targets whilst wondering if I would make the ferry. Back to the office, reassure my secretary that she would be able to write the minutes, get change, check I wasn't taking anything I shouldn't and that I had everything I should. Ferry ticket, passport, credit cards (that's enough, but It wasn't all). Now get me out of %£$$£%£" London.

Down to Dover, with just enough fuel to a ferry crossing. Why ferry? Well this was probably my first trip that wasn't so carefully planned that I didn't know exactly when I would return. Previous trips have usually had every stop already planned and booked. This time I thought I would be free and find accommodation where I arrived. Great idea except on the first night.

The ferry was dead. I was first on and was enjoying the usual Fish chips before the handful of non comercial travellers boarded. So eat, read your book and chill.

Then the first encounter. Colin approached me and asked if I could give him and his mate a lift to Paris I pointed out the bike gear and that I was going in a different direction. It turns out, these two students had been pursuaded to try hitchhiking to Morocco for charity. No back up plan, no experience of hitching and no travel insurance (not even an EHIC card). No marks for planning. Of course hitching a lift from someone on the ferry sounds easy, except there wern't many people and the comercial drivers don't mingle with ordinary mortals and these days can be sacked for picking up hitchhikers. So I showed Colin the main roundabout out of the Calais terminal where they might find a lift and the direction to walk into Calais. He went back to talk to his mate, who apparently, wasn't very happy with him at the moment. Looks like a great start, I wonder how far they got?

So out onto French highways in the dark and breeze. It was already 10:30 and I had no where to stay. Still there were four cheap chain hotels in Dunkirque. Full, closed, Full, FULL!! It was now approaching midnight. Should I ride though the night? Try Belgium (expensive)? In the end I found the Ibis Central. 77 Euros secured a room without breakfast ( my planning wasn't looking so good). I was horrified, still I needed some sleep before going on. Sleep.. I ...must ...get some.... sleep....

 

[Pathologic]

Day 2

Up before the lark and on the road ASAP. The aim was southern Germany or Austria. Set up the sat nav. THe route was suposed to be via Brusselles, Frankfurt, Nuremburg and into Austria on the A9 because I wanted to come ove the hills into Zagreb from the North.

A long day ride refuel, eat, pee, (sleep occasionally) and repeat. Thanks to the Belgium biker who showed the way to filter in Brusselles rush hour traffic.

About half way through the day I realised that my route was much further South than expected. So consulted Sally (satnav) and realised I must have set it up to go straight to Zagreb, not following my route at all. The goo news was that I took the A27/ A1 through the Ardenne and borders of Luxembourg. Great autoroute.

Rethink, reprogramme Sally and a southerly route across Germany opens up. Fine. We cross the The Rhine at Mannheim and I am further East than I have ever driven. Then a traffic jam. Not slow, but stopped traffic. Still I'm on a bike, so I work my way to the front. and encounter this.

In a triumph of German efficiency and planing, some bozo had decide to stop the traffic whilst they fit this gantry across the motorway. Fine, except it doesn't fit It must have seemed such a good idea when they started. 40 minutes of increasingly frantic efforts to 'adjust' the metal work by hitting the support with a very big hammer, bring no joy. The police are looking nervous. I should imagine queue was vast. Meanwhile I did some stretches, had something to at and drink, and took some photos. After all I was on holiday

Eventually they gave up and let the traffic through. No narks for guessing who was first through. Lots of empty road to enjoy. then more hours of travelling.

By 6pm I was beyond Nuremburg and looking to stop after the next refueling stop. So pick a town, any town..... I end up in Passau programming Sally to find a reasonably priced hotel. On my way I see a hotel and stop. The guy on reception is amenable to agreeing a room price. Hans takes time to come and look at the bike and offers a free garage to keep it safe.

Dinner and beer are interspursed with Hans coming round with German specs for 1200 GS and asking my advice on what extras to get.. Bliss.

Next step Zagreb.

 

[Aidan1150]

A good start. I'm looking forward to the rest of your report Path.

 

[MattW]

Great start - I like your 'voice' - I'm already captured

 

[MattW]

Ahem....

You can;t just leave us hanging like this

 

[Pathologic]

Patience

Been away.

More tonight. I promise

 

[Pathologic]

Austria and Zagreb

Another early start. A quick fruit juice and a snack bar. Grab the bike from the garage and bac on the auto route to Austria and the Alps.

I've been telling people I wanted see mountains (Gandalf). I had planned to do a couple of passes on the way through. Unfortunately, at that time in the morning there was low cloud and drizzle so I could even see the Alps . So I choose to sit on the motorway through Austria and Slovenia. I wasn't so bad.

Finally reached the Slovenia mid morning. I was looking forward to Croatia and my first border crossing, at which I behaved like a complete numpty. I got better at croosing borders

I found a wonderful road into Zagreb on Google maps that wound its way up to Sljeme and then down the other side through little villages and dark woodland. Judging by the number of campsites and resaurants on the top it must be a popular spot in the summer and at weekends, but now I virtually had it to myself and I made the most of it. The road and the view were more than worth the detour.

From the top of the hill I phoned Danilo to find out where I should meet him. Arrangements were made and I left the woodland and plunged straight into a melee of suburban streets, schools churches, shops and some amazing houses. Quite a contrast to the riding I had done up to this point. The direction was always down. The centre of Zagreb clusters on the edge of these hills. I was heading for Novi Zagreb by the river and to the tyre shop where new Anakee 2’s were waiting for my bike. The GPS didn’t miss a turning, and for once neither did I.

As I turned into the shop car park I was met by Danilo and his son Philip. Danilo’s GSA was already having new tyres fitted and mine was next. Philip was off to finish his packing. I took the bags of the bike and Danilo showed my round Zagreb and back to the shop to sort out my tyres. Then we were of to ‘lunch’. It was 4pm and I had this vision of still eating dinner! At lunch I met the two remaining members of our party and their wives. What did I make of these men with whom I had committed to sharing this adventure.

Danilo is great. He has usually got a very clear idea of what he wants and is very good at getting it, as several hoteliers found out! He is very generous and likes to have the best available. On his trip to England he acquired a system 6 helmet, because it was the best!

Philip was the most laid back of the group. He is finishing his studies and Dad had provided him with a bike for the trip (good old Dad). He was always ready with a joke and smile (and a smoke). He was also the softest touch for the various street sellers we encountered.

Mladen and Nenad are cousins. They share a passion for antiquities and more recently, bikes, They had already done some trips within Croatia together, but this was the first really big trip for then as well. Nenad is the more impetuous of the two and would be ready for the off before most of us. Mladen had done most of the planning and was also very laid back. I am grateful to him for keeping me out of jail on the Macedonian border (see later).

Nenad I didn’t meet until the following day. I met his wife a lunch in a superb sea food restaurant where Danilo had earlier chosen our main course! I was very well greeted by all. I suppose the desire to check each other out was mutual. I did my best impression of sparkling wit. They can tell you if it was any good.

So after some photos, we retired to Danilo’s pad, which was stunning. It backed onto one of the ravines and so was filled with bird song. Danilo’s wife, Anna was very welcoming. So I was bedded down in a spare room to see as much as I could amid my hopes and fears.

Great day. Tomorrow promised even better.

 

[Pathologic]

Ok lets ride!

As agreed, An early start from Zagreb. Danilo and I were last to arrive. A brief discussion about riding together and off we went heading for the auto route.

it was very much a day for understanding each other expectations. my expectation had been for hills and some curves to scrub in my new tyres. i thought Croatia was all mountains. I was wrong. We travelled over 400 km of straight, fast auto route. No bends no mountains, no traffic. Still the weather was perfect and it gave us a chance to sort out how we ride together. there were a couple of things to relieve the tedium. We took a wrong turning off the auto route and the guy in the toll booth advised us to turn around and drive the wrong way down the exit ramp and back on to the main highway!

Belgrade was negociated, which was tedious, but at least the roads became more interesting. At Nis we stopped for a break as the rain began. "So Nigel, the next section of road has a reputation as being dangerous and full of mad drivers. Now we think you should lead"

OK so lead I would. The rain was now persistent. Once everyone was ready (i thought) two of us took a gap in the traffic. The others has to follow as they could. The road certainly started to twist and there were few places to over take, so keep trying to keep the others in sight became difficult. Unlit tunnels and 4x4 on the other side of the road made it even more engaging. Still no where safe to stop so keep going and regroup at the top. may be i should have said that at the beginning.

What happened whilst I waited at the top and tried various phone and text communications, i cannot be certain, no photographs exist. I believe it involves a set of large panniers, a domino effect and a large amount of (probably) human sh*t. The up shot of which was when they did arrive, no one was in a good mood and I was responsible for the accident. Danilo had a dent in his topbox (we never did work out how) and a dent in his self image.

We went on into the rain and the growing darkness with me at the back, wondering if they would speak to me again.

We reached Sofia at dusk. It was like a scene from the Day After Tomorrow. first impressions are of potholes that even the trucks avoid and a Romany shanty town full of urchins and garbbage. Several kilometres of road works and cobblestones brought us to a hotel and a hot shower.

After the briefest of rests we took a taxi to the 'Happy grill' as recommended by hotel reception. The restaurant was busy (a good sign) and staffed entirely by young women in short skirts (or more accurately wide belts). We were having a drink at the bar, when Danilo was suddenly in conversation with another punter. A pimp, I was informed. After we had eaten this git came to our table and shared a little of his 'wit' with us, fortunately in bulgarian. It needed no translation. This was our first night out and I was not at all sure what kind of tour I had signed up to. with growing anger and embarassment I sat it out. I realise this is not the common reaction, but I have have some idea of the emotions and physical cost to women caught in prostitution and this guy was turning it into a joke. The tempentation get up and punch him was quite strong. I should have at least got up and left. I am ashamed I didn't.

I will say, to cover eveyones backs that everyone returned directly to the hotel.

Not many pictures from this day. I have a video shot driving out of Sofia. I will try to edit it and post later.

 

[Stevie73]

it's the trials and tribulations that make it memorable Keep it comin!!

 

[Pathologic]

Jelly beans and Chi

When in Rome.... so no crack of dawn start this morning. We were so late arrivinig that no one wanted to be on the road. Also the hotel breakfast looked too inviting. the pattern on this morning was similar to most that followed. Me up first ( difficult when you are sharing a room). Danilo was usually next followed by Nenad and Mladen who liked too pack the bikes before breakfast. last of all was Philip (young people need their sleep). Trying to grab some breakfast, pack and have a fag before we ride off.

This morning is cold and showery, but there is some sun so i try out the mini camcorder by fixing it to the screen of my bike and leading us out of sophia. It not nearly as exciting a ride as i had hoped. results later (maybe)

Soon we are are on a fast auto route through endless rolling countryside. Its over 200 km and the roads are drying out. Then the sat navs take us off the main roads and onto fast A roads. We settle into a rhythm, rocking up behind slower traffic and then selecting our own space to over take. This is more like it. We do 40 miles of this, then back on an autoroute. Oh well.

Bulgaria has one last trickbefore we rock up to the border. We are diverted onto a minor road due to road works and then nothing. We can see more autoroute, but no idea as to how to get there. In the end wwe follow the tracks across a muddy slip road and up an small bank onto a likely looking road. Then back to the main route. All part of the plan

Then we roll up to our second border crossing.