Roadlok

[Delboy777]

Anyone who is thinking of fitting a roadlok to their 1250, i can confirm that the spacers required are the 17.5mm ones and use the 90mm bolts that come in the packet from Chris, (Billy Big Roy) of this parish. 5 mins to fit and looks ok.


1D66FB55-85C9-4A24-BE2E-37B6ABF1BAB0

464827B2-830B-406B-953F-54780105FA96

 

[Arsey]

But why bother ?

Had one on my 1290 and used it once. Waste of money and a faff to use.

 

[Delboy777]

But why bother ?

Had one on my 1290 and used it once. Waste of money and a faff to use.

Well it would be a faff if you were too feckin lazy to bend over for the 3 seconds it takes to use it.

 

[RSiconic]

One less thing to pack and carry. I would like one.

 

[Firestick]

I grabbed one from Chris the other day and my problem is limitation of equipment and the fact I'm shit at anything mechanical.

Question:

My bolts are 85mm - the only ones supplied.

Follow the included instructions and measured the 'gap' between original bolt unscrewed and top of bolt, which corresponds with spacer D, but only using a measure, so accept accuracy as not 100%.

Spacer C is obviously shorter (a tiny amount), but a shorter spacer would allow the bolt thread to go a tad further into the receiving thread.

My question is, rather than be 'short', would using the smaller spacer and going into the thread further lead to any issues?

The common sense in me says screw in more rather than less if in doubt.

I've read an older thread just this morning, which was helpful, but still undecided on which spacer.

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/456668-Roadlok-spacers

 

[Warlord]

Me and one of my mates have had to get ours replaced as the locks sieze.

Losing confidence fast......

 

[Firestick]

Me and one of my mates have had to get ours replaced as the locks sieze.

Losing confidence fast......

My last one did - bit of carbon spray works fine. Need to remember it's pretty close to a load of sit, so there is a need to maintain, as with anything.

 

[max7]

One less thing to pack and carry. I would like one.

I was thinking the same thing, they look like a cracking idea ...then I saw the price Cheers though Del, I'll start saving

Edit: Max's wife says thanks a fucking bunch, Derek. That's more money he's gonna throw at that bloody bike while our children have to wear rags on their backs and....

 

[max7]

Me and one of my mates have had to get ours replaced as the locks sieze.

Losing confidence fast......

Thanks Warlord (that's from my missus)

 

[Warlord]

My last one did - bit of carbon spray works fine. Need to remember it's pretty close to a load of sit, so there is a need to maintain, as with anything.

I'm on graphite spray and locked cover with inner tube strip..... we shall see

 

[Mallard]

Agree with Firestick. I've found that even after a summer's ride in the rain the plastic/nylon insert will seize. After a day's ride it's best to remove it and give it a wipe. But I do think it's a good bit of kit and far better than carrying a disc lock around.

 

[Warlord]

Thanks Warlord (that's from my missus)

.....

 

[Mr Bean]

On my second as first bike was written-off - no issues with seizing locks and dummy pin never used.

Better than a lock and chain due to the ease of cuts needing to be made to wheel it away.

 

[malcopopolo]

Every time you wash your might steed sprat it carefully with gt85 and operate the key mechanism a few times.

Far better than a disc lock and alway with you!

 

[Delboy777]

I grabbed one from Chris the other day and my problem is limitation of equipment and the fact I'm shit at anything mechanical.

Question:

My bolts are 85mm - the only ones supplied.

Follow the included instructions and measured the 'gap' between original bolt unscrewed and top of bolt, which corresponds with spacer E, but only using a measure, so accept accuracy as not 100%.

Spacer D is obviously shorter (a tiny amount), but a shorter spacer would allow the bolt thread to go a tad further into the receiving thread.

My question is, rather than be 'short', would using the smaller spacer and going into the thread further lead to any issues?

The common sense in me says screw in more rather than less if in doubt.

I've read an older thread just this morning, which was helpful, but still undecided on which spacer.

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/456668-Roadlok-spacers

Right here is a cut and paste from a member who bought one from Chris and found the following.
Hi Chris. Success – the results are in!

Fitted successfully today, here’s what I found:

R1250GS
Removing the original calliper bolt and placing it loosely back in, the measurement from under the bolt head to the calliper body is 16mm (diagram A in the instructions). This was measured accurately with a Vernier gauge.

Using spacers E (the shortest ones that can be used without the Roadlok fouling the calliper, the measurement for the 85mm bolt is 11mm (diagram H in the instructions). Clearly this is 5mm short of the original A measurement.

Therefore, using the 90mm bolts with the E spacers brings measurement H spot on at 16mm. The pin also sits nicely in the disc holes.

Hope this helps you with any further 1250 installs.

Now i dont know if you have a 1200 or 1250 but the above instructions stand good for any bike. Slacken the top bolt and unscrew it then put it back in the hole and measure as described. Whatever that measurement is is what you would require to have using the appropriate spacers and bolt. If the spacers are correct and body isnt fouling the caliper and you can push the locking pin into a hole in the disc. You may need longer 90mm bolts if things dont align up. My gap was 16mm because i had the advantage of the above post to work from, so it was easy to do. Screwing further is always the best option unless the bolt offers to "bottom out.

 

[Andi_archer]

Someone on here printed some plastic covers for these didnt they?

 

[ymfb]

I had one on my 1200GSA, ridden all year round, only deployed when not at work or home, never seized, no special spray, just used.

Will refit on 1250, probably tomorrow.

I’d say if you dont like it, remove it, clean it up and sell it on here, plenty think they are good kit, I do.

 

[Mr Bean]

But why bother ?

Had one on my 1290 and used it once. Waste of money and a faff to use.

It takes a few seconds to set - the secret is to let the thieving scrote set the pin. 99 times from 100 the pin will only engage if the bike is moved a few inches and therefore doesn't present an issue removing the pin - agreed if the bike is moved to engage the pin it can be difficult to remove.

 

[Delboy777]

I was thinking the same thing, they look like a cracking idea ...then I saw the price Cheers though Del, I'll start saving

Edit: Max's wife says thanks a fucking bunch, Derek. That's more money he's gonna throw at that bloody bike while our children have to wear rags on their backs and....

dont mention it. BTW its a bargain from Chris im thinking.

 

[Delboy777]

I had one on my 1200GSA, ridden all year round, only deployed when not at work or home, never seized, no special spray, just used.

Will refit on 1250, probably tomorrow.

I’d say if you dont like it, remove it, clean it up and sell it on here, plenty think they are good kit, I do.

I concur with you on this. I think its better than using one of those bloody Oxford bits of crap and doesnt look out of place. A little maintenance now and again shouldnt be a problem surely