Round the Baltic ride

[Paul Rochdale]

I have been considering my next big ride (not having done one since 2006) and wondered about a ride around the Baltic. This is the idea - and please contribute if you think of something - Dover/Calais on a single ticket. I really hate deadlines so will get a single ticket when I return to Calais. Ride through France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany and Denmark, Ferry to Denmark and ride north hugging the western coastline, swing over to Sweden, Finland, then head south. Latvia, Lithiania, Poland then back though Germany to Calais.

What about Kaliningrad, the Soviet enclave? I'm told that is definitely a place to avoid.

Staying in motels. I know Skandinavia is expensive.

 

[Blue Sweeper]

I've already done quite a lot of research into doing the very same trip. Time to go is now really as the weather window ends late August. You'd also need a Russian Visa to enter Kaliningrad and you can't just turn up a the Border, it needs to be obtained before you leave the UK.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

"Special Kaliningrad visa: If you are only visiting Kaliningrad (and not the rest of Russia), you may be able to obtain a special Kaliningrad visa if you fulfil all of the following conditions:

your stay in Kaliningrad is a maximum of 3 days
you are a citizen of a Schengen member state, the UK or Japan
you enter and exit Kaliningrad from the border check points of Bagrationovsk, Mamonovo and/or Khrabrovo Airport"

My bike hasn't quite been finished yet and we're off to Spain in four weeks. I had thought about September but if the weather is going to be iffy by then, I will wait until next year. More research to do.

 

[Ali-bear]

I would struggle to find anything interesting in the way of scenery or roads anywhere on your trip apart from maybe some of Finland and maybe Sweden, but even there I'm not sure the coastal route would be that good.

Apart from some of the cities of course. But then you run the risks of traffic, crime and indifferent police.

 

[Fordy]

I took the family on a month long car camping holiday in 2008. Had a great time despite the weather. So much to see along the way and new things to experience.

If you can carry a sleeping bag you'll find a lot of the campsites will have cabins that you can use instead of a tent. This might give a few more options than motels.

We didn't go to Kaliningrad but up close to the border at Nida, they do a lovely smoked fish there.

 

[Roberto]

I would struggle to find anything interesting in the way of scenery or roads anywhere on your trip apart from maybe some of Finland and maybe Sweden, but even there I'm not sure the coastal route would be that good.

Apart from some of the cities of course. But then you run the risks of traffic, crime and indifferent police.

Grizzly makes a decent point about roads and scenery. I'd seriously consider what you expect out of your riding on the trip. During a previous trip to Estonia I avoided a long schlep by taking a ferry from Karlshalm in Southern Sweden to Ventspils in Latvia, doing this because all of my research indicated the journey to Stockholm was going to be long and boring.

Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia are all flat countries and save for some compulsory gravel action on roads in central Latvia there was nothing at all remarkable.

As for traffic outside of the cities, no problem. I found Riga and Vilnius were pretty spicy places to ride but Tallinn was fine and much calmer.

I found no issues with the Police in any of those countries but I stuck around the limits. On the main road south between Tallinn and Riga there were plenty of plod around on both the Estonian and Latvian side, although the one Latvian biker cop we came across was friendly, and in Estonia a group of bikers sought us out a petrol station to warn us of a speed trap.

I didn't get to the Kalliningrad enclave so can't help there, reflecting that Grizzly's comments about plod might reflect on there..

Hope that helps
R

 

[Ali-bear]

Yes its not the traffic police I'd be worried about - it would be the police you want to help you if you run into trouble yourself - there's a fair chance they wouldn't be at all interested. But that's probably true in southern Europe as well.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

I would struggle to find anything interesting in the way of scenery or roads anywhere on your trip apart from maybe some of Finland and maybe Sweden, but even there I'm not sure the coastal route would be that good.

Surely the coastal route up the Western side of Norway with it's fjords is known to be picturesque? I've read mixed revues about Kaliningrad, some say it's lawless, others saying it's fine. My only interest in going there is that it's a bit unusual being an enclave of Russia, and on the way through to Poland.

 

[David Nimrod]

The E6 in western Norway is a beautiful road (or at least it was, when I was there in 1984 and 1990)...

The rest of the route sounds less interesting scenically, but that's not the whole story, is it?

 

[Roberto]

The rest of the route sounds less interesting scenically, but that's not the whole story, is it?

I quite agree David; from the parts I've seen I have really enjoyed visiting the Baltics, great places to visit

Not to labour the point so to speak Reg, but I think a bit of perspective about the kind of riding is important as it could be useful for trip planning.

 

[ThorH]

The E6 in western Norway is a beautiful road (or at least it was, when I was there in 1984 and 1990)...

The E6 does not even run through western Norway. It runs from Trelleborg in the South of Sweden, through Gothenburg, Oslo, Lillehammer, Trondheim and Tromsø to Kirkenes. At least South of Trondheim, the E6 is A Road To Be Avoided. And that pretty much goes for anything "E". These roads are for getting from A to B, they are boring and littered with police, trucks and German camper vans.

 

[David Nimrod]

...German camper vans.

The mobile (Hymer) rolling roadblock...

 

[LivNorway]

Surely the coastal route up the Western side of Norway with it's fjords is known to be picturesque? I've read mixed revues about Kaliningrad, some say it's lawless, others saying it's fine. My only interest in going there is that it's a bit unusual being an enclave of Russia, and on the way through to Poland.

Hi!
You wrote:
''What about Kaliningrad, the Soviet enclave? I'm told that is definitely a place to avoid.''

I was in Kaliningrad in August 2008; no problem!
I was riding my BMW Scarver, and my friend rode his Jawa 180 two stroke.
We booked rooms at the hotel Rossiya in Sovetsk, and they ensured our Visa/papers got the important stamps. (They didn't know they had to, they learned that from us! ) http://www.kronushotels.ru/
The rest was not prebooked.

Make sure your bikes are in a safe place at night.
If you need to ask people on the street something, ask the kids; they love to help tourists.
Food & roads was good. Small roads on the countryside was nice, but look out for dogs.

May I suggest a route for you?
https://maps.google.no/maps?saddr=k...a+4,+GołdapGołdap,+Polen&t=h&mra=ls&via=2&z=7
Klaipeda - Neda (border, bring rubler for the border, they did not take creditcard in 2008) -Zelenogradsk - small roads to Sovetsk, and then south to Gusev - go east and leave Kaliningrad - go south to Viktorija in Lithuania - go to Goldap in Poland - find Canal Elblaski http://www.kanal.ostroda.pl/galeria.html - find ferry for sweden or Denmark, and go to Norway.

https://maps.google.no/maps?saddr=k...d=TppCc1HrpuLinegqiE36JA&cbp=12,340.38,,2,1.1

E on my map: http://www.viktorija.lt/ = I recommend this, close to Kaliningrad, in Lithuania, a really nice place! The place, Viktorija, on a map: http://www.campingmap.net/object.aspx/34950/Camping_Viktorija

Nice hotel in Goldap: http://www.seniora-ego-goldap.superturystyka.pl/

And then find a ferry to Norway, and ride where the fjords are looooong and deep, and enjoy the hairpins!

Liv.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Liv
Thanks a lot, now I have some places to refer to if and when I make the trip. I've (at last) managed to find how to post a link to a route on Google Maps (the sideways 8 symbol then 'Shorten URL') and this is the route so far.
http://goo.gl/maps/g9968

 

[LivNorway]

Liv
Thanks a lot, now I have some places to refer to if and when I make the trip. I've (at last) managed to find how to post a link to a route on Google Maps (the sideways 8 symbol then 'Shorten URL') and this is the route so far.
http://goo.gl/maps/g9968

I have made some adjustments on your route
https://maps.google.no/maps?saddr=C...ra=luc&via=2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14&z=6
Note the dots outside Norway too, like St.Petersburg and Zelenogradsk (I didn't manage to put Nida on the map).

Liv.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Liv
Why have you cunningly steered me away from areas I wanted to see such as Stavanger and the series of hairpin bends nearby, missed swooping over the top of the Baltic close to the Arctic Circle and gone into Russia where I hadn't planned to go to. Just curious ;-)

 

[wheeledwidewebb]

I have been thinking of the same trip myself and the thing I don't like the look of is the schlep from Calais up to Denmark. Have you considered the ferry from Harwich, then riding back to Calais on the return leg. If you have discounted the ferry then why? I'm genuinely interested to know.

Also would you not fancy going through Russia, seems a shame to go all that way and miss St Petersburg.

Lastly, speak up if you want anyone else to go with

 

[Paul Rochdale]

WWW

I'm not concerned about the Calais to Denmark part, partly because I've yet to ride in Denmark, partly because as I'm retired, I have time on my side. So no need to set a deadline and to rush back for a ferry. I can take at long as I like, you see. I had thought about getting a single ticket for the ferry outwards, then getting another single ticket as and when I get back towards Calais. Dear I know but no urgency for me.

I can't revall it's name (Eagle's Mountain or something similar) but there's a mountainside to the east of Stavanger which looks a tad like Stelvio, and I'd like to ride there.

Why not Russia? I guess it doesn't hold any interest for me, although St.Petersburgh is supposed to be exceptional. Anyway by Estonia then Poland then Germany, my thoughts will be for getting home. My wife has ideas about flying out to Tallinn to meet me for a few days.

Umm, please don't take offence but I much prefer to ride alone. That way I can start, stop, linger, ride for hours without stopping, stop for a few days, all without having to take someone else's wishes into consideration. I have ridden with others a few times but not anymore. I rode for three months in the US alone with just an hour or two here and there with other riders. I just enjoy the solitude and the freedom of choice. No hard feelings?

 

[wheeledwidewebb]

No hard feelings?

Blimey, no problem at all fella. I couldn't live with myself if I didn't do Russia so there is a good example of why these things are often tackled by yourself (as you say).

I would be very very interested to hear about your experiences if ever you decide to write your trip up etc.

Cheers.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

WWW

Broadstairs eh? Dane Court or Charlie Dicks?