Rubbing plates to protect your bike.

I forgot to image the engine paint mess. But this is the front cover. The damaged paint is brittle I'm thinking chemical damage perhaps brake fluid has let the weather get under the paint and it's spread.

With the bike in normal use this mess was hidden behind the alternator belt cover.

Bottom of front cover. Metal black due to ACF-50. I believe this began with the plastic cover chafing the paint as there is damage both sides.
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I took the cover off to get it coated with the steel parts.

But the top half is like this
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No ACF so it's just grey clag I cleans off the belt dust.

It will coat up fine. But just shows what goes in hidden from sight when someone goofs and fails to clean up properly.

This is the engine top cleaned up and painted. It's lumpy but all the white powder is cleaned out.

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No GS is this clean under there unless it's owners strips the bike for every wash. ;)
 
This is how my bike looks. Yes it's haphazard but the job evolved. The engine hanging straps are to keep it safe. The rope takes the front end weight. It saves me stripping the handlebars and HID kit that I only just fitted just to disconnect the wiring. The towel protects the instruments.

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The FD has a some paint failure at the joint. Nothing bad but annoying.
The swing arm (apart from where riders boot has rubbed) is in great condition. Even the bearings are fairly good though one side is not entirely smooth. I'd not be changing them except it's apart.
 
Bendy toy said:
The previous owner had full extended warranty. I guess he never looked under the petrol tank because otherwise I'm sure he'd have demanded the part be replaced. It must have been rusting for a very long time.
No disrespect to him. Nobody would expect to find this.
Click to expand...

He'd have been out of luck then ......... The Motorrad extended warranty policy specifically excludes corrosion. He'd had to have made a claim within the first two years of the manufacturers warranty and even then it's not a given that a corroded item will be replaced :blast
 
Ive only moved near the sea since April, but Stafford Council are about as jobs-worth as they get so West Midlands salt will be a factor.

The engine top and subframe struts, I am sure are accidental damage. The strut is damaged only at the left hand side bottom end. Brake fluid is the only stuff I can think of to do that much damage. The weather has crept under and done its dastardly deeds.

I was stripping the front end to get the front cover out when I found the engine top damage. That led to removing the front subframe because cleaning and painting that in situ wasn't going to give a long term repair.
 
The parts are now with Wing & Son near Totnes. The steel is getting a zinc undercoat then an 80% gloss top coat. I fancy a more shiny than standard look.
 
The FD case has a little bit of corrosion going on so I've asked Mike to post the bare cover back to me. I'll get it powdered to match the swing arm and post it back for rebuild
Anal? Dead right after what this is visiting to restore - sorry - repair I want it right.

I would like to have the forks top yoke done in the same finish. But I can't see how yo get the little ball joints out. Damage up the. Won't come cheap so the yoke wi have to wait.

It's not corroded just scratched by the previous owner's keys.
 
The gear box is off, paint peels touched up and it's ready to go back on tomorrow.
Apart from one corner (bottom right) the paint was good. But I've touched up anything that looks questionable. It's softened with cellulose thinners so I suspect it's not powder coat.
Stripping that lot down simply for a powder coat job is def not on my to do list.
Input shaft seals are good so I'm leaving well alone. The new output seal is on it's way from Motorworks. The output bearing feels fine -phew. Who knows why the seal is failing.

The clutch plate gap measures 5.3mm. Service limit is 4.4mm so there is some life in it yet.
 
The repainted gearbox (silver wheels with clear lacquer) is now back on the engine.

Output shaft oil seal is an easy job to replace with suitable drill and two self tapping screws. I also tapped out the top left locating dowel to M10. This will allow it to be jacked off the engine next time it has to be opened. That one was very well stuck. The bottom right had to be left "as is" because I don't have a long enough tap to thread it through.

The input shaft splines were in great condition but completely dry. I've used a light smear of copper anti seize.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm now attacking this job myself. Was a Haynes manual much help on this one?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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