Hi all, been thinking about freshening up the looks on my 1150 GS, some fasteners and bits. Is it worth using rust remover, brush on hose off, or am I wasting my time and money? Never tried it, is there another product that’s more recommended? Tia.
Rust remover - any good?
- Thread starter Mullgs
- Start date
Not sure the result would last even if it worked and you'd probably be better replacing any affected fasteners with replacement stainless ones. Not sure if they still do but I'm sure certain places like Motorworks did full kits.
Rust removers such as Evaporust do work but leave the surface totally unprotected to future rusting so you'll have to paint or protect them somehow.
There are various types of rust converter on sale, and I used some stuff I got from Frost Automotive (mine is a blue colour but they no longer seem to sell it) who do a wide variety of restoration products, however, they will chemically convert the surface rust (after removing as much loose material as possible with a wire brush) and leave a surface which usually requires painting to prevent further rusting. These products are usually acid based, such as Tannic acid which makes Iron Tannate, or Phosphoric acid which makes Ferric Phosphate.
For none structural fasteners I would replace them with stainless steel equivalents, I was conscious of not replacing critical fasteners (suspension parts mostly) with stainless as they might not be of the same strength rating. However, a word to the wise, using stainless steel bolts through LandRover aluminium panels will still give some oxidation of the panel edges, but at least the nuts and bolts will still generally come apart, which is why I also got into the habit of using copper grease on my stainless fasteners to try and keep everything a bit more stable.
For none structural fasteners I would replace them with stainless steel equivalents, I was conscious of not replacing critical fasteners (suspension parts mostly) with stainless as they might not be of the same strength rating. However, a word to the wise, using stainless steel bolts through LandRover aluminium panels will still give some oxidation of the panel edges, but at least the nuts and bolts will still generally come apart, which is why I also got into the habit of using copper grease on my stainless fasteners to try and keep everything a bit more stable.
Well, I am trying to maintain all original bolts and nuts as they are designed for the bike and best.I usually take em out brush the rust off and then use AFC where possible to keep them tidy.
For me it’s part of the patina and belongs to the bike. After all she’s 26 years old now……
There is ways to elctroplate and kinda galvanize metal/steel yourself, always fancied a try, never got around.
www.instructables.com
For me it’s part of the patina and belongs to the bike. After all she’s 26 years old now……
There is ways to elctroplate and kinda galvanize metal/steel yourself, always fancied a try, never got around.
Let's Galvanize at Home
Let's Galvanize at Home: Electrogalvanizing is a process in which a layer of zinc is bonded to steel in order to protect against corrosion. The process involves electroplating, running a current of electricity through a saline/zinc solution with a zinc anode and steel condu…
www.instructables.com
Chelade is a product we sell for "fixing" a metal surface before repainting.
But as others have said, replace with new, NOS, or stainless.
Alternatively you can replate yoursef but really? Are there enough hours in your day?
My thought is simply to keep it clean in order to maintain the patina.
But as others have said, replace with new, NOS, or stainless.
Alternatively you can replate yoursef but really? Are there enough hours in your day?
My thought is simply to keep it clean in order to maintain the patina.
Whilst there are are methods for doing that at home, I've read through your link and apart from making hydrogen gas and being left with acid mixtures to dispose of, potentially you'd end up doing it one fastener at a time?
Frosts still do plating kits if you wanted to go down that route, but I think I'd try and find a local plater and see if they could do them as a batch?
Frosts still do plating kits if you wanted to go down that route, but I think I'd try and find a local plater and see if they could do them as a batch?
We must have pics OP
The issues may be from the sea mists that descend on Mull year in year out, anywhere where coastal mist hits has a detriment effect on most metal parts.
Try some of the paint that fishermen apply on their boats to cover the exposed non galvanized bits. (apart from disc brakes obviously
)
The last coat of paint the Landy got was yellow yacht enamel. Went on well apparently but it was over a Zinga cold galvanised bulkhead and alloy body panels. This many years later, I can't remember if the Series III radiator panel was new or a treated secondhand part? The first panel was the original IIA with headlights in the middle but that had gone rusty so I made it look like a Series III during one of it's rebuilds.The issues may be from the sea mists that descend on Mull year in year out, anywhere where coastal mist hits has a detriment effect on most metal parts.
Try some of the paint that fishermen apply on their boats to cover the exposed non galvanized bits. (apart from disc brakes obviously
Thank god it's a oilhead BM...
My bike are testimony to their coastal usage and nearly 20 years in Shetland makes me an avid rust Spotter...
I have some Bilt Amber Korrosol which did an amazing job on a 35 year old rusty rad guard on my TZR;
bilthamber.com
Korrosol - Bilt Hamber
Korrosol is a fallout remover which clears metallic particles from paints and lacquers.
bilthamber.com
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