S10 lock barrel stiff and also useful mods done

Wrigsby1

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So in my ownership since the end of August the S10 I have been progressively warming to the experience...:) Some mods that have helped are bar back/risers, the flat seat mod, softening the suspension as people like it set hard after older GS's... Just getting it to float along which is a characteristic of the GS's that many of us started on... I bought it for the long haul and might just make it stick...:D
One thing that is a bit of a bug and one that I had on my Crosstourer is a tight ignition lock... You put the key in and it's not always easy to get it to turn on... You end up putting the key out and in a couple of times to make it work... It's like sticky lock plates but I know that many a Japanese bike barrel is not always metal so lubricating has to be done with the right stuff... Who has had the prob and have you fixed it with something particular...? I'm not as anal as to let it make a difference but if there is a way then that's good... In 40 odd bikes it has only been this and the CT that have been a prob and they have been the newest...
 
Hi,
I've had the same problem - it wasn't there when I first got the bike. It only became apparent in the past year and sometimes it took a long period of fiddling to get ignition on or steering lock off.

Anyway, i haven't cured it - but I have solved it:thumb2

If I pull the head of the key back towards the tank the ignition turns on first time every time.

From the steering locked position, because the lock barrel is rotated 180 degr. you need push the key head away from the tank as you push down and turn.

I've now got so used to this I do it without thinking about it any more - it always works first time:thumb2


Cheers.......................Grizzly
 
The normal solution is dry graphite lock lube.

Often the issue is that someone has lubricated the lock with oil or WD40. This attracts dirt & can lead to the symptoms you mention.
 
Thanks for the replies... I have tried the pulling/pushing but to no real effect... I will try to get some graphite lube... It's no great deal except it usually takes 2/3 goes in and out with the key to seat correctly and turn on smoothly... Good bike though and as a couple of you guys have said before, it fills the hole between the oilheads and the later GS's which are increasingly blinged and fussy...
 
Brother in laws old S10, his current MT09 and my TDM all have the same issue with the ignition locks but not the seatlock mechanism Dry graphite powder is the answer
 
Good bike though and as a couple of you guys have said before, it fills the hole between the oilheads and the later GS's which are increasingly blinged and fussy...

Absolutely spot on Sir!

I have had my 2017 S10 for 3.5 years, and since COVID arrived, I have looked at replacing it, (the old grass is greener syndrome), but each time I ride it, I wonder what the hell am I thinking! Mind you, I haven’t had any issues with the ignition lock so far though……! :blast
 
Absolutely spot on Sir!

I have had my 2017 S10 for 3.5 years, and since COVID arrived, I have looked at replacing it, (the old grass is greener syndrome), but each time I ride it, I wonder what the hell am I thinking! Mind you, I haven’t had any issues with the ignition lock so far though……! :blast
Same here, I've had my 2016 for over 5yrs and I'm being drawn to a GS/GSA but every time I swing my leg over the S10 I wonder what was I thinking!

I did get to ride a 1250GS for the first time on Saturday and I was a bit disappointed in that I expected to think 'wow I've got to get me one of these' but it didn't happen, it was very nice but getting back on my bike felt nicer. That said, the S10 didn't set my pants on fire during the test ride but I'd read that is was a grower so I bought one, I'd expect the GS/GSA to be the same.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
 
Same here, I've had my 2016 for over 5yrs and I'm being drawn to a GS/GSA but every time I swing my leg over the S10 I wonder what was I thinking!

I did get to ride a 1250GS for the first time on Saturday and I was a bit disappointed in that I expected to think 'wow I've got to get me one of these' but it didn't happen, it was very nice but getting back on my bike felt nicer. That said, the S10 didn't set my pants on fire during the test ride but I'd read that is was a grower so I bought one, I'd expect the GS/GSA to be the same.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

I like the GS/GSA but I keep thinking about the reliability and quality of finish. I haven’t ridden a 1250 but I have ridden the 1200 LC and I did like it, but coughing up the money sort of stuck in my throat. :D
 
It's the cost that puts me off, along with the cost of servicing and stupid things like canbus meaning you can't just add stuff to the bike.

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It's the cost that puts me off, along with the cost of servicing and stupid things like canbus meaning you can't just add stuff to the bike.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

Yep, the added PIA that Canbus can bring and the fact that there a plenty of piddly problems that the later bikes have and ones that wouldn't necessarily suit my all year, all weathers, bike outside all day and can't be arsed to wash it mentality... :) I tend to buy higher mileage and well looked after bikes and don't want the bling that comes on most of the newer ones... I was tempted by the LC RT's but doubt I would find one with a low enough spec...:D Bluetooth, Audio, TPMS, wonder-wheels, TFT, Halo LED's, keyless, hill start assist, gearshift pro etc etc etc leave me cold...

The S10 will hopefully fill a hole and as I said is growing on me... And even though the prices hold up it's still about 2/3rds of a similar GS...

The lock barrel issue seems common as I have seen on other forum threads for Yamaha's... Plenty of contradiction as usual as to the remedy...:D
 
I'm one for preferring to ride my bike rather than clean it and the S10 looks good dirty but mine is starting to have a bit of corrosion, time to give it some TLC I think.

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I'm one for preferring to ride my bike rather than clean it and the S10 looks good dirty but mine is starting to have a bit of corrosion, time to give it some TLC I think.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

I think mine had been kept clean and then given a good quality tart up before it hit the bike shop as they said they had needed to do little prep apart from a check over... It's not as tough finish as my old 1150RT but is pretty easy to wash... It's going to have to get used to it... :) I washed the bikes quickly at the weekend and then the car and fecked my back sciatica again... That'll teach me...! I'm at my comfiest riding the bikes luckily...
 
I had the same lock issue but having had the bike from nw was confident that it hadn't had any oil product such as WD40 in the lock. I washed it through thoroughly with hot water and lots of detergent, rinsed with clean hot water. Dried by blowing compressed air through it and finally lubed it with dry PTFE spray. It improved it no end.

The graphite works but when rain gets into the lock it can cause a paste to form which then dries out and can become a problem.
 
Started giving it a clean and the crap that is coming out points towards a residue of something used previously... Also the key flap is stuck open... I'll get it properly clean and then try some dry PTFE...

Thanks all for the feedback...
 
I had the same problem with the key!
The key is very soft, it’s very easy to twist/bend it! Have a close look at it, also compared it to spare key or red key.
That’s where the problem was for me.
 
My key snapped in pannier lock outside the dealers on the day i bought it! Had to change locks there and then. I swapped the Yamaha luggage for Givi asap.
 


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