Sat nav.

tonytobo

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1150gsa 2003 where to pick up a live feed for a sat nav so it is ign controlled. Many thanks in advance. :thumb2v
 
This one's dead easy. No cutting, splicing, scotchblocks.

The side light is powered via two female 1/4" connectors. It also 'ign controlled'.

To connect to this, fit two 1/4" female connectors to you sat nav cable and use two piggyback connectors to enable you to finish it off.
If this isn't clear, google piggyback conn. and all should become clear.
 
Wired mine straight to battery with fused lead current drain is so little and good reminder to remove it when leaving bike as still switched on.
 
Rear Brake Switch Supply

I think the most common method on the 1150's is to splice into the feed to rear brake switch - I use it on mine to supply both the GPS and the Autocom.
This gives you a supply which goes on/off with the ignition key - very important I think, because you don't want the mounting cradle connection contacts to be "live" with the bike parked up in heavy rain/snow? or when your washing and hosing the bike?

Cheers..........................Grizzly:beerjug:
 
Can anyone offer any advice/instructions re wiring one to the R1200GSA, 2010 model.
 
My 2010 GSA came with a plug with cap already fitted to take the GPS. It is located near the steering head and the Garmin GPS plugs straight in to this plug.

Regards,
Mike
 
Fused from battery, not switched. Don't want the bastard thing switching off every time you take the key out to open the fuel cap.
 
I would ask this in the 1200 section if I were you. It's not just that I / many here have little insight into your bike's electrics - but it is fundamentally different. The CAN may / will 'look' for certain loads. Above which it may sulk (conclude there's a short) and swith out that output. Bet that's helped...

Can anyone offer any advice/instructions re wiring one to the R1200GSA, 2010 model.
 
Hi, if your adventure has an aux socket you can buy a wiring kit from bmw for £15 that plugs into the back of the aux socket. It allows the socket to still be used whilst having an extra two wires to power up your sat nav.

The advantage is no splicing of wires and it can be returned to standard if you take your sat nav off the bike.

I'm in noway mechanical or electrical and I managed to wire it in ok.

If you need the part number just pm me and I'll go get the invoice.

Maybe this gives an alternative thought.

Mark
 
Thanks for all your replies. First I apologise for being on the wrong section. I’m relatively new on this site and didn’t read the right hand column before I chimed in.

My bike has no socket near the steering head area, only a socket just below the seat on the left of the bike. It’s one of the last single overhead cam models.

Not being technical I’ve opted for the advice from Bin Ridin. Because it was the easiest for me to do.

A local auto electrician has extended my sat nav lead and put an inline fuse just near the battery connecters, which he crimped onto the cable.

The current passes from the battery, through the fuse, then a small capsule (what I think is some sort of transformer. This came with the sat nav)
then terminates at a rubber waterproof socket with a supplied bung thats put in when the device is unplugged.

It was just a matter of threading it all through from the steering head area to the battery.

I hope this explains what I’ve done albeit in very basic terms.

Many thanks to,
Bmmike08, Bin Ridin, DutchBryn, majaem

Regards.....
 


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