Scatterlings of Africa - 1 Lesotho

[bladerunner]

This is the first of two ride reports arising from my time on Sabbatical in Durban.

I had one weekend free (South Africans are a hospitable lot) and wanted to hire a bike for a weekend to bumble around the region - taking in the Valley of thousand hills etc.
However, all the contacts I had including both BMW dealers did not hire out. One dealer gave me the details of the BMW off road school in Imbabala, near Greytown - http://www.bmwmotorrad.co.za/xtra/academy/Imbala.asp run by Roger Scheffer.

I fancied a refresher course - having done the Brecon course 4 years ago, but Roger was not running a course that weekend.

It is a sign of SA hospitality that he suggested a day's off road training at the centre, followed by a 2 day off road trip into Lesotho - including the Sani pass and a night's stay in Lesotho.

So too early Friday morning I drove the hired car out from Durban 2 hours through misty forests and farmland via Pietermaritzburg to the Imbabala BMW centre. It was a sign of how long I had been in the country that I was not fazed by the "trespassers will be shot" sign!

 

[bladerunner]

After a fine breakfast we continued with a day's 1:1 tuition.

Going over the tricks learnt on Pavey's course was not wasted on me and it had the added joy of beautiful scenery, giraffes and buck and dust instead of mud.

 

[bladerunner]

That evening was spent with the hosts in the bar, drumming up Dutch courage for the day ahead and watching a DVD of some completely bonkers Austrian enduro race - this was, I am sure, designed to reassure me that whatever Lesotho threw at me, these boys did worse for entertainment!

After a good breakfast we made an early start and soon left the hard top for gravel roads.

I was living the dream riding very non touristy roads through small very African villages and along through African bush. With enough imagination I even had the requisite rooster tail.

After around 200km we stopped for a caffeine fix at the Sani pass inn before tackling the ascent.

Those of you who are a bit nifty in the off-road department ( and I count myself not amongst you) really should try the Sani pass - especially after heavy rains have washed whatever smooth surface there ever was away.

At one point I looked up and thought "if I was out hiking and saw that, I would doubt I was on the correct route!"

It is not just the gradient and tight hairpin bends (some cars do 3 point turns to get round) but the surface - a mixture of bare rock and large boulders.

 

[bladerunner]

At the top you need to visit customs and then you are in a different World. Much colder greyer and wetter than South Africa. The Lesutians wear blankets and stand stock still - rather spooky when they emerge from the mist.

We lunched at the highest pub in Africa before riding another 120+km off road to the Oxbow Lodge chalet. This is a ski lodge in winter and had a welcoming fire and good beer

 

[bladerunner]

The following morning we were blessed with "gale force fog" and had the sympathy of holidaying South Africans until I pointed out that this was like every summer holiday I had ever had!!

We descended from 3200m and 4'c to the plane and 32'c in 2 hours! Down the way the lower hills were carpeted in "Cosmos" - beautiful pink and white flowers that grow wild like french poppies.

Wherever possible, young Roger wheelied his HP2 much to the amazement and delight of locals.

Lesotho is the 2nd poorest country in the World, so what they make of 2 guys on 1200cc BM's is anyone's guess.

 

[bladerunner]

We returned to SA via a tarmac mountain pass and after coffee in the tranquil artsy village of Clarens rode the Golden gate nature reserve back 250km or so. Keeping the Drakensbergs now to our right (South) we rode epic twisties amidst Elland buck and Baboons.

Finally back to Imbabala in time for a quick drink before the drive back to Durbs.

Now, anyone think of a better way of spending a weekend?

 

[bladerunner]

Roger is working on attracting Brits out for tours and training.

The course is similar to the Brecon one, but the scenery will knock you out.

Alongside my tour of Lesotho, he could organise off road rides out to the Battle fields (Rookes drift, Blood River etc) and longer trips to Botswana or Mozambique.

He hopes to have a stand at this year's NEC so go give him a look.

I reckon including flights (remember no jet lag) and accommodation, you could have yourself a cracking week or two next winter for the price of a skiing holiday.

I have absolutely no material connection with roger, other than having enjoyed an ace weekend - certainly towards the edge of my envelope - and good beers with good company.

But remember, Africa is not for cissies!!