Seized engine mount 1150gsa
- Thread starter Al-1150
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So if the screwdriver seems to have been pressed downwards.
Where is there for it to go? Its just a solid block underneath correct?
Considering drilling it and using a stud extractor to grab it .
I need a borescope. They had them in aldi a few months back but I tried to behave and didn't buy it.
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Where is there for it to go? Its just a solid block underneath correct?
Considering drilling it and using a stud extractor to grab it .
I need a borescope. They had them in aldi a few months back but I tried to behave and didn't buy it.
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Okay, so I think I understand what has happened. From looking at a few schematics it would seem that the mount holes on the side of the engine do not correspond to the shape inside the engine.
The drift is wedged down into the rectangular shaped space.
I want to see what a split engine looks like from the inside to confirm that shape. It ssems odd to leave all the empty space there. Any links to photos of a split engine appreciated.
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The drift is wedged down into the rectangular shaped space.
I want to see what a split engine looks like from the inside to confirm that shape. It ssems odd to leave all the empty space there. Any links to photos of a split engine appreciated.
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So has it disappeared altogether or is there still some of it showing ??
Looks about right what you have posted up
Looks about right what you have posted up
95% of it is down in the bottom slot and wedged in there hard.
I'm guessing there is 2 to 3 inches in the top section blocking the mounting hole. The drift is flush with the engine leaving me nothing to grab to pull out.
The screwdriver length (drift)I used was square and in a freak coincidence was the perfect size for a press fit into the rectangular void that would have been beneath the engine stud.
If I can get a borescope from somewhere today I can check for damage. If there is no damage to the casing on the inside and the void has just been filled I might just drill out the section of the mount hole blocked and leave the rest in there.
The crack on the top doesn't seem to be catastrophic in any way. My initial thoughts are to JB weld it together?
Here's a link to the video of how I eventually got the stud out. Let me known if external links aren't allowed.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFNY1_yBL4m/?igshid=1719xyqs58yup
I'm not out of the woods yet but at least there is hope.
Let this be a cautionary tale.
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If you have the rest of the bolt out and the other side is clear?
You should be able to swing the subframe around and away from the bike
Be handy of someone could swing by with an Arc welder and weld that adapter to your screwdriver remains ???
You should be able to swing the subframe around and away from the bike
Be handy of someone could swing by with an Arc welder and weld that adapter to your screwdriver remains ???
It's hard to make out in this photo, but this is what I have that I can make out anyway. You can see the end of the drift and how its at an angle.
I'll remove the subframe to give me better access.
It looks to me like it is too far in to weld, but I don't know much about welding.
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get the subframe out the way. what can you see when you shine a light in from the other side? is there no edge of the stuck object visble that you could catch to drift it out from the other side? (with something long that isnt going to break or disappear in the other end!)
failing that, should be enough space there to weld something to the object once the subframe lug is out the road. or a steady hand may be able to drill and then tap to get something screwed in to get the slide hammer on. need to be deep enough for a fair few threads though to avoid just pulling the new threads out. M6 looks feasible.
failing that, should be enough space there to weld something to the object once the subframe lug is out the road. or a steady hand may be able to drill and then tap to get something screwed in to get the slide hammer on. need to be deep enough for a fair few threads though to avoid just pulling the new threads out. M6 looks feasible.
Ah now I see it AI-1150
What I thought I saw was a square sticking out of the hole
What gog says may work but better to go larger like M8 (13mm spanner size) rather than six (10mm spanner size)
You would need a bit of an expert to get into that to get a good weld on that
But the heat would also help in expanding the alloy a bit
good solid bikes So a better than average chance of getting a solution
What I thought I saw was a square sticking out of the hole
What gog says may work but better to go larger like M8 (13mm spanner size) rather than six (10mm spanner size)
You would need a bit of an expert to get into that to get a good weld on that
But the heat would also help in expanding the alloy a bit
good solid bikes So a better than average chance of getting a solution
Got an endoscope. The square screwdriver was indeed a perfect fit for the void and it is just pressed into it. No damage or cracks that I can see. See photo.
I'm thinking that by using a cylindrical dressing stone on a dremmel and grinding a step on the visible surface I might be able to get enough purchase to drift it back out.
The other option is leave well enough alone and just drill out enough to give me clearance to put a new stud in there.
Its sitting in a lake of Kroil which makes me very happy as if there was even the tiniest crack in the case the Kroil would have creeped through it. That's what Kroil does.
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I'm thinking that by using a cylindrical dressing stone on a dremmel and grinding a step on the visible surface I might be able to get enough purchase to drift it back out.
The other option is leave well enough alone and just drill out enough to give me clearance to put a new stud in there.
Its sitting in a lake of Kroil which makes me very happy as if there was even the tiniest crack in the case the Kroil would have creeped through it. That's what Kroil does.
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Make sure you use a long drift this time
I know I shouldn't say this but this thread has made me smile..... but I am truly impressed by your reluctance to admit defeat and your perseverance. Well done.
Thanks very much, not there yet bug at least there is light at the end of the tunnel.Make sure you use a long drift this time
I know I shouldn't say this but this thread has made me smile..... but I am truly impressed by your reluctance to admit defeat and your perseverance. Well done.
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When you can see that, your work is done
isn't that a fact!Got the rear subrack finally fully off the bike, pain in the hole even without all the added drama. I now finally have access to see what going on properly.
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centre punch (lightly so not to knock it in further) then drill with a 2 or 3mm bit, about 10mm deep, then same depth with a 5mm bit. run an M6 blind tap down it. Should then be able to get an M6 bolt fastened securely enough to lever it out, or attach a slide hammer.
thats what I would do. cannot of course guarantee success. good luck though
thats what I would do. cannot of course guarantee success. good luck though
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centre punch (lightly so not to knock it in further) then drill with a 2 or 3mm bit, about 10mm deep, then same depth with a 5mm bit. run an M6 blind tap down it. Should then be able to get an M6 bolt fastened securely enough to lever it out, or attach a slide hammer.
thats what I would do. cannot of course guarantee success. good luck though
This is what I was going to suggest but if you can get hold of fine thread taps and stud bar use that instead because even though you’d expect fine threads to rip out you can use a bigger diameter without breaking though the outside.
Result 
Drilled through the centre which left a ledge on the inside. Was able to tap it out from inside.
Out in one piece with no damage.
So Relieved, thanks for the moral support and advice.
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Drilled through the centre which left a ledge on the inside. Was able to tap it out from inside.
Out in one piece with no damage.
So Relieved, thanks for the moral support and advice.
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well done
