Servicing ebike motors

The local bike shop I bought my emtb from explained strongly the need for mechanical sympathy when changing gears (particularly uphill) and chain maintenance. All made sense to me but not to some others I’d guess
 
Where I was working I could cycle to work and back everyday at 14 miles or so a day. It did a summer and autumn before I put it away to save it from the worst of winter but it did get used in a lot of rain. I swapped the rear 12 speed casette and a chain at about 1500 miles or so as the chain was looking past its best despite weekly cleaning and re-lubing using MucOff Ebike dry or wet lube depending on the weather, but I did use it the second winter. Then work became a bit iffy so I thought I'd use it until the chain needed doing and get the front chain wheel done too (I was told that chain and rear block every 1000 miles and a front chain ring every 3000 miles was a good idea), but the crank arm on one side started to creak a bit and then I think I got an error message or two. My biggest issue was I couldn't transport the bike for a repair as it came with full mudguards with wired in lights.

I got a mobile cycle mechanic to come out and have a look at it and he found the main bearing was going, which he didn't routinely carry, but he requested a repair as it was by that time 25 months old, but Haibike said that 3300 miles in two years was excessive even for a goodwill gesture. Basically, in my opinion, if you've bought an ebike as a replacement for a car (which is what mine was marketed as) unless you're doing mega miles in less than 2 years and manage to claim a new one, or just pootling about in the summer, forget about it being a replacement for a car!
A 2020 Cannondale Tesoro x1, 12 speed Shimano. I've been averaging a chain (£50) every 1200 miles. 3 chains and its a new rear cassette (£99) and front chain ring.
Now up to 10000 miles and the Bosch motor crank seal bearings and torque tube need an overhaul. I may not have helped longevity by crashing a couple of times.
Rear wheel rim started to spllt. £200 for a new rim and rebuild using the existing hub.
The Suntour front forks have worn internally and squeek like hell despite regular stripdown to regrease. The forks are non serviceable i.e. you cant get new seals. I've been quoted anything from £400 upwards for a decent set of serviceable replacement forks.
Ebikes have turned out to be maintenance heavy.

If i was buying again I would probably go for 10 speed and look for the Shimano Cues driveline. Cues is supposed to be more robust and suited for ebike use. The 12 speed Linkglide driveline that's on my bike is not really fit for purpose (durability) given the power of ebikes. I would also look for bikes where the forks can be serviced.
 
I hope when changing chains, you are all buying ones suitable for e-bikes. Knock off copies must be avoided so care is needed when buying online. My local bike shop said some chains are designed for e-bikes. They are a little dearer.
I did speak to Performance bearings earlier this year to have a chat re servicing. My Yamaha motor was around 260 for a rebuild with new bearings, and they said between 2500 to 4000 miles for a rebuild, or earlier if problems are noticed.
The comment re running costs is very true. I spend more on my road bikes than my car or motorbikes. Tyres at 60 - 80 a piece and last 2-3000 miles, brake pads as much as my car or motorbikes and any trinkets or accessories that are vastly over priced!
 
Report re engine creaks and clicks.
Giant Explore E+1 with Yamaha based engine, that started creaking and making clicking noises.
A search on the net suggested this was a common problem and greasing the engine mounting bolts will cure this.
I was a bit sceptical but thought I would give it a go.
The 3 mounting bolts were meant to be tightened to 22 ftlb. All of them were solid and took a bit more cracking to undo than I expected. I took the bolts out one at a time and they all looked fine with no rust marks on them.
I covered the bolts with copper grease and replaced them torquing them down to the recommended torque.
Took the bike out and, hey presto, all the noises had gone. Did about 20 miles today and everything was whisper quiet.
So result, but not sure exactly what was creaking and clicking.
 
Regarding the maintenance costs for e-bikes, it’s why I went for my Giant Trance E+2 Pro rather than the +1. Whilst not quite top end, it’s Shimano gear is less expensive for chains and chainrings and a bonus is the rear cassette can be rebuilt with just the lower gears that wear the most, saving money. Suspension is also less expensive to service. As I don’t do downhill just trails and single track it’s perfect for me.
 
For those a bit further North, E-motor repairs from Barrow serviced my Gen 1 Specialized motor for a reasonable price (honestly can't remember the exact amount).
The bearings were replaced and a general check over before I sold it.
Mark
 
not sure you want expensive chains, cassettes on an ebike because they are made of lighter weight less hard wearing materials, the cheaper stuff is made of steel, its an issue for lightweight bikes but not for ebikes, normally ebikes start jumping out of gear on the lower rings because they wear out because they work a lot harder, i use temu for the individual cogs at £2-3 each. sram are are £18 ish. they look like the same product
 
not sure you want expensive chains, cassettes on an ebike because they are made of lighter weight less hard wearing materials, the cheaper stuff is made of steel, its an issue for lightweight bikes but not for ebikes, normally ebikes start jumping out of gear on the lower rings because they wear out because they work a lot harder, i use temu for the individual cogs at £2-3 each. sram are are £18 ish. they look like the same product
I think it’s chain wear and stretch that causes sprocket wear, so I would suggest a good chain made specifically for e-bikes is probably a better bet than cheap Temu or Ali express chains. There are a lot of copies sold on eBay packaged to resemble Shimano etc, but when compared to genuine ones there is an obvious difference. I bought one to have a look and there was a lot of slop in the links and play in the side plates. A cheaper option is to find a local bike shop who will cut a required length from a reel of suitably sized chain which will be cheaper than a makers packaged one.
I am surprised that e-bikes still use a large number of gears. 11 at the back is I think too many, as a result a narrower chain is needed. 7-9 is probably enough to allow a more robust chain to be used.
 
Blimey ! Got my levo back from a motor rebuild . The gears had exploded so total rebuild . It also needed a chain set and a new rear wheel as it was so worn . So it’s like triggers broom now . However the bike is transformed . Now as good as my levo 4 though heavier . Cost ……. Just under a grand !! 🥲
 
Blimey ! Got my levo back from a motor rebuild . The gears had exploded so total rebuild . It also needed a chain set and a new rear wheel as it was so worn . So it’s like triggers broom now . However the bike is transformed . Now as good as my levo 4 though heavier . Cost ……. Just under a grand !! 🥲
Just curious - was the rebuild done by Specialized, or did you use a 3rd party company to do the work?
 
Done by a 3rd party via my bike shop though . They’ve done a good job
Reason I ask is that I've seen quite a few YT videos of 3rd parties who put in even better components than what the manufacturers use. Better, bearings, bushings etc.
 
Fixed with OEM parts I believe . The planetary gears were completely stuffed and loads of gravel in the motor . It’s 9 years old so has done pretty well . The motor bill was about £450 The rest was the chai set rear wheel and other bits and pieces .A new motor is about £800 I was told
 
Fixed with OEM parts I believe . The planetary gears were completely stuffed and loads of gravel in the motor . It’s 9 years old so has done pretty well . The motor bill was about £450 The rest was the chai set rear wheel and other bits and pieces .A new motor is about £800 I was told
Happily my Levo is still in PWO, especially as it's now out of warranty so I'll be carrying the can for any repair work that's needed. But I'm keeping an eye out for a good rebuild provider in case that day does come...
 


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