One thing to point out is that setting of the Cams back to “assembly line perfect” is what I like to do once the normal seating and break in of all the cam train has occurred.
Once the break in has stabilized, it (cam timing) will change almost none for upward of 100k, so it’s done.
As far as valves, the dealer has no guidance to do ANY extra work if the clearance is within the range specified.
Again, I set the valves to a very specific value of 0.12mm for the Intake and 0.36mm for the Exhaust. This will allow for what I have observed as the common change of clearance in the direction of opening the clearance up over time.
To answer the question of what percentage “require” shim changes at the first 12k, I would say something like 5 percent.
If I answer the question as to what percentage do I change to hit the target I use…the answer is almost 98 percent.
So, the dealership is not doing anything wrong by just saying that the clearances are within specifications, and I’m doing extra work by changing almost ALL the shims to the target numbers I think work best.
Two primary reasons for setting the values where I do is to enjoy a quieter engine for thousands upon thousands of miles/KM, and to do it once at the first 12k so that you have adjusted and recorded your shim values and can simply know that they most likely will not need to be changed for a long, long time…and then if they do open up dramatically/quickly that it means you have had some poor quality gas that has made excessive carbon deposits that are causing the valves to not seat properly.
My approach to working on these bikes is more about preventative maintenance than routine maintenance, so understand that what I do is sometimes beyond the norm.
Brad
