Shimla, India

aliveinscotland

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I have cut these posts and thread, as they stand better as a trip report.

Richard

I've just got back from 4 weeks ride from Dalhousie to Shimla via everywhere. My style of riding is to find a base, do 4 or 5 long rides from there, returning each night, then moving 200km and repeating the process. That way I don't get to have heavy luggage when I'm adventuring.

Get a bank account with built in travel insurance.

Yes, you can get an eVisa, they accepted Bank of Scotland.

Take a pen with you through Delhi airport, there's a tiny piece of paper you have to fill in. Be sure to have the full address of where you're staying and maybe practice writing it on a post-it note.

The biometric machines are a pain. If one gives you hassles just move to another.

The metro from the airport is great, way better than braving the tuktuk rank and the traffic.

Riding in India. Rule 1 your horn is your friend - rather overuse it that meet a Mahindra on a tight corner.

To get used to riding there, follow the scooter herd, and keep eyes open for any shortcuts they know. Be assertive but not stupid. On mountain ranges be careful of buses - if you're going to overtake, do it at speed, the other traffic will make a plan around you.

The biggest problem facing the roads dept, especially around the Mandy - Manali road is the roadside collapsing onto the tar. In order to get traffic moving, they simply grader it away, including the tar underneath. So you'll find many patches where a perfectly good road become a potholed mud patch just around a hairpin.

On a bike so what, but be aware that many cars drop to one mile per hour.

Shelve your testosterone before going there. There will always be people wanting to go faster, people who spend their day on the horn. It's not worth getting agro over it.

I believe there's some issue with using hired bikes in Leh, google it and take note of how others have dealt with it.

I got lost once because the cable fell out my phone which I was using as a GPS, and it went flat. I ended up riding a freshly graded road 11 km up a mountain with cliff face above, sheer drop off on the other side. Just stick to the side with cliff face, no point in being a hero riding a metre from the edge.

If there's been a dropout, leaving a big hole, they'll have placed big rocks around it. Treat any ground following that as if it too could drop - aka stick to the cliff side.

Oh yes, it's virtually impossible to do more than 40km in an hour in much of that country. Between other traffic, goats and hairpin bends. Don't build route plans without taking that into account.

Be careful what you eat. Remember you are there to enjoy the ride. Rather stick to bland food and live to ride exciting roads. Omelette worked for me. Remember don't rinse your mouth, don't open your mouth in a shower, don't take ice in your drinks. The water will make you sick, and motorcycles weren't designed with diarrhoea in mind.

I struggled with the smog, so I used a website called aqi.in which creates map overlays showing air quality. I eventually chose my routes by trying to stay in the green.

Tea doesn't brew in the Himalayas. I stayed at 6600 feet altitude, which meant water boiled at 87°C, too cold to brew a tea. It's something you don't think about, but two minute noodles have a similar problem.

Many roadside stalls will make you an omelette, and serve steaming hot chai.

Manali is smog city, don't plan to stay there too long. I found Zostels and The Hosteller good affordable places to stay.

I bought a motorbike bag via Amazon.in from a company called ViaTerra, the specific model I chose was the ViaTerra Claw, for the princely sum of £32 and it is excellent quality.

Be sure to take rehydration powders with you, great for post diarrhoea treatment. I also took water purification tablets, never used them but had the option for the just-in-case of a motorcycle breakdown in the middle of nowhere.

I rode solo.

In rural areas it is hard to find English speakers for anything more than greetings. I found that soldiers very often speak good English, it's worth remembering.

A bus station is a good place to source mobile phone cords at odd times, of which I managed to get sand into mine.

Just about everything shuts on a Sunday in rural areas. This can include fuel.

Get used to being stared at. It can be disconcerting.

Can't think of anything else

Dennis



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Last edited by a moderator:
I've just got back from 4 weeks ride from Dalhousie to Shimla via everywhere. My style of riding is to find a base, do 4 or 5 long rides from there, returning each night, then moving 200km and repeating the process. That way I don't get to have heavy luggage when I'm adventuring.

Get a bank account with built in travel insurance.

Yes, you can get an eVisa, they accepted Bank of Scotland.

Take a pen with you through Delhi airport, there's a tiny piece of paper you have to fill in. Be sure to have the full address of where you're staying and maybe practice writing it on a post-it note.

The biometric machines are a pain. If one gives you hassles just move to another.

The metro from the airport is great, way better than braving the tuktuk rank and the traffic.

Riding in India. Rule 1 your horn is your friend - rather overuse it that meet a Mahindra on a tight corner.

To get used to riding there, follow the scooter herd, and keep eyes open for any shortcuts they know. Be assertive but not stupid. On mountain ranges be careful of buses - if you're going to overtake, do it at speed, the other traffic will make a plan around you.

The biggest problem facing the roads dept, especially around the Mandy - Manali road is the roadside collapsing onto the tar. In order to get traffic moving, they simply grader it away, including the tar underneath. So you'll find many patches where a perfectly good road become a potholed mud patch just around a hairpin.

On a bike so what, but be aware that many cars drop to one mile per hour.

Shelve your testosterone before going there. There will always be people wanting to go faster, people who spend their day on the horn. It's not worth getting agro over it.

I believe there's some issue with using hired bikes in Leh, google it and take note of how others have dealt with it.

I got lost once because the cable fell out my phone which I was using as a GPS, and it went flat. I ended up riding a freshly graded road 11 km up a mountain with cliff face above, sheer drop off on the other side. Just stick to the side with cliff face, no point in being a hero riding a metre from the edge.

If there's been a dropout, leaving a big hole, they'll have placed big rocks around it. Treat any ground following that as if it too could drop - aka stick to the cliff side.

Oh yes, it's virtually impossible to do more than 40km in an hour in much of that country. Between other traffic, goats and hairpin bends. Don't build route plans without taking that into account.

Be careful what you eat. Remember you are there to enjoy the ride. Rather stick to bland food and live to ride exciting roads. Omelette worked for me. Remember don't rinse your mouth, don't open your mouth in a shower, don't take ice in your drinks. The water will make you sick, and motorcycles weren't designed with diarrhoea in mind.

I struggled with the smog, so I used a website called aqi.in which creates map overlays showing air quality. I eventually chose my routes by trying to stay in the green.

Tea doesn't brew in the Himalayas. I stayed at 6600 feet altitude, which meant water boiled at 87°C, too cold to brew a tea. It's something you don't think about, but two minute noodles have a similar problem.

Many roadside stalls will make you an omelette, and serve steaming hot chai.

Manali is smog city, don't plan to stay there too long. I found Zostels and The Hosteller good affordable places to stay.

I bought a motorbike bag via Amazon.in from a company called ViaTerra, the specific model I chose was the ViaTerra Claw, for the princely sum of £32 and it is excellent quality.

Be sure to take rehydration powders with you, great for post diarrhoea treatment. I also took water purification tablets, never used them but had the option for the just-in-case of a motorcycle breakdown in the middle of nowhere.

I rode solo.

In rural areas it is hard to find English speakers for anything more than greetings. I found that soldiers very often speak good English, it's worth remembering.

A bus station is a good place to source mobile phone cords at odd times, of which I managed to get sand into mine.

Just about everything shuts on a Sunday in rural areas. This can include fuel.

Get used to being stared at. It can be disconcerting.

Can't think of anything else

Dennis



Sent from my SM-G990E using Tapatalk
That's great advice Dennis, many thanks for taking the time for the reply
Best regards
Mike
 
That's great advice Dennis, many thanks for taking the time for the reply
Best regards
Mike
I forgot to say "I got lost in the dark", it was already after 7pm and I had stopped too long for a "leg" break. I ride a BMW F650GS Dakar at home and I was to be lent a bike to ride India - when I got there I discovered the bike I was to be lent was a sportsbike.

I did everything I would have done on the dakar on that poor sportsbike - but I couldn't do distance so well - sitting with your legs almost trussed like a chicken!

Anyhow, despite all the best plans to get to Shimla before sundown were shelved because my legs couldn't take the pain any longer.

So, when the phone finally shut down I couldn't see my hand in front of my face. I eventually got to a fork in the road and stopped. About 15min later a Mahindra drew up beside me, interior light on. No one spoke English. I was getting desperate, so I said Shimla, and the driver pointed at the left-hand turn and said "at top turn right".

That road turned out to be 11km long, freshly graded, in pitch darkness.

So, bottom line is don't think you can do more distance per hour just because you can at home.

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Aqi.in (Air Quality Index) - I literally drew my route to stay in the green
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One hill I went up, 21km to the top, had 137 hairpin bends.

In the mountains, away from national roads, you don't get much traffic.

Here's a clip of a section of the ride I ended in pitch black... Pretty place - note use of the horn. Don't argue with buses, learn to ride on the very edge of the tarmac.


And yes, I talk to myself

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Your air quality map is interesting.
Thanks for that.
I fly into Chandigarh before heading up to Shimla to collect my bike
👍
 
If you're needing a taxi in Chandigarh, this guy Akesh is excellent, speaks good English, and knows the city (like which roads to avoid when)

Akesh
+91 62804 38229

On my last days there I gave the borrowed bike back, and hired the latest Himalayan 450 for a day.

What a day!

Aka don't trust Google maps - it sent me up a "road" that was no more than a place where water ran down a mountain.
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One warning, Shimla traffic is insane, but keep in mind that everyone wants to get home to see their family, so no-one is going to deliberately ride into you. Also, the main road, Mall Road, is pedestrian only, and the police won't let you park anywhere near it, so rather do your shopping elsewhere - just get your bikes and leave town.

If you have to stay in Shimla, I stayed at The Hosteller, tho the food is odd, there's a lift, and the showers work. (You'll discover not many places have showers like you see in the west).

Both these photos of Shimla, taken from the same window, show the difference smog makes - that beautiful sunset is smog.
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If you're going to be driving around Chandigarh, it helps to know the city is divided into "sectors", and there are road signs telling you how to get where, but you only have seconds to see and memorize (depending on what time of day).

Oh yes, they are fierce on speed limits in Chandigarh.

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Know more or less how far you should be from a destination, then you can work out which one of these places on a sign is the Hindi word for the place. Useful to have seen it once, when arriving at signposts with many names on.

Some traffic scenes
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If you see a T junction sign, it doesn't mean that there will be an actual T junction, it simply means that there is a road meeting the one you're on, that you need to take if that's your route.

The turn off that T sign is indicating happens within 100m of where the sign is, not a mile down the road. A turnoff road will very often behind you and only meets the road you're on when you reach the sign.

Only State Bank of India ATMs accept foreign cards in rural towns. You'll see a blue n white SBI sign.

If the traffic is really hairy, find a tipper truck to follow - no one messes with a tipper. Be careful of following a bus, they stop suddenly.

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