Shock swap, one man job?

ExpatinIstanbul

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I'm going to be removing my Ohlins (front and back) and re-fitting the stock shocks to get the bike ready to sell. Is this possible as a one man job, or will I need to recruit a mate to help out?
 
It's a one man job - but remember to put some weight on the rear seat when you remove the front shock. Also worth running the fuel down before you do this.
 
Put a trolley jack under the sump to unload the front.

If fitted with ESA, front shock removal is a pain in the ass especially the two wiring connectors and the hydraulic pump/accumulator unit and associated bracket.

Also the allen key hole in the front shock spindle can get chewed up if the top mounting nut is seized or too tight. Don't ask me how I know (mine is now a 6mm allen key size and not the standard 5mm size).:augie

Replacement can be done on your own, an assistant could be handy if you a re worried about attempting it yourself but its only nuts and bolts. My bike is currently in bits as I'm too tired to finish replacing the front spring on my ESA shocks, will do it at the weekend along with a clean up and preserve beneath the headstock area.
 
Took the rear shock off today, front tomorrow as it's raining now. Yes, one man job.....if you have the right tools. I didn't. "L" from this forum saved the day by going home to get the tools and bringing them back......cheers again bloke!

Didn't need to take the rear wheel off but L's tip of ratchet strapping the front wheel to the centre stand, to stop the bike rolling forward when lifting the rear, was a top tip.
 
I did this a couple of weeks back, I fitted Ohlins.
I took the back wheel off, the rear was very straightforward, even the bolts came out easily.

The front was more of a challenge. I used a combination of Cookies walk through and Jim Von Badens.
Basically took off generator cover
Put a bottle jack under sump guard and lifted front, but the extra bit I did just to give me slightly more room because the brake line gets too tight, was to remove the support where the brake lines join (beneath the RH Headlamp support - just follow the brake line, it's easy to spot), Once I did this it was simple.

Did it on my own, very straightforward.
 
One thing to watch for is the thread lock in the two pins that locate the suspension lower eyes, it can be quite tricky to get them out. Judicious application of heat can help melt the thread lock, but it still makes the most horrendous creaking noise when you undo it.

Clean the threads of the two pins thoroughly before replacing with a modest amount of threadlock. Too much and someone, somewhere, will be cursing in the future.
 


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