Should I use Lacquer over Smoothrite?

Rotaxmaxracer

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Well I finally got around to dealing with the issue of the usual corrosion on the timing case cover on the 1200GS... and it is now looking peachy, after stripping right back to metal, treating with a few good coats of etch primer and four coats of Smoothrite.

I also happen to have a large can of heavy-duty Lacquer (the tough stuff used on alloy wheels - not for painted panels etc), and wonder whether I should give the finished item a few coats of this before removing the masking tape.

Does anybody know whether it's advisable or necessary to lacquer over smoothrite :nenau

Just wondering whether this might just present another opportunity for water to get between this and the paint when the inevitable stone chips appear.

Got rid of the sponge and replaced bolts with M4 Marine grade stainless...of course:thumb
 
Why not spray a piece of scrap plate, with Smoothrite allow it to cure (check the can) then spray it with the lacquer...your soon see it it reacts..
 
Rotaxmaxracer said:
Well I finally got around to dealing with the issue of the usual corrosion on the timing case cover on the 1200GS... and it is now looking peachy, after stripping right back to metal, treating with a few good coats of etch primer and four coats of Smoothrite.

I also happen to have a large can of heavy-duty Lacquer (the tough stuff used on alloy wheels - not for painted panels etc), and wonder whether I should give the finished item a few coats of this before removing the masking tape.

Does anybody know whether it's advisable or necessary to lacquer over smoothrite :nenau

Just wondering whether this might just present another opportunity for water to get between this and the paint when the inevitable stone chips appear.

Got rid of the sponge and replaced bolts with M4 Marine grade stainless...of course:thumb
Click to expand...

If your can is a spray can, the lacquer will be one pack (as opposed to two pack) this product is very brittle and prone to chipping so in that exposed position I would not apply it, best bet would be to pop into a small body shop and ask them to put two coats of two pack lacquer on.
 
Thanks for the great suggestions. I tried spraying a piece of plate as suggested, but this seemed only to ripple the smoothrite after application.

So... I think that i'll go with paintman's suggestion and call in to my local bodyshop.
 
I've never bothered lacquering smoothrite on my bike and it's holding up well. If you don't lacquer it, touch ups / resprays are easy too.
 
Rotaxmaxracer said:
Thanks for the great suggestions. I tried spraying a piece of plate as suggested, but this seemed only to ripple the smoothrite after application.
Click to expand...
That will be due to the fact that Hammerite is an enamel, the lacquer you have is not.

You can use enamel over other paints but it doesn't like the opposite treatment.

Hammerite (or rather Finnegans) used to make a clear enamel lacquer but interest died off when the smooth versions of Hammerite came out.

Any clear enamel lacquer will do what you want. The most likely source in an aerosol can will be Humbrol model paints (but their cans are small and very expensive for the amount of paint/lacquer).
 
Protection moving forward

Mate, as a suggestion try one of these. moving forward they really do protect that area of the bike.

Best regards,

a>
 
Rotaxmaxracer said:
Well I finally got around to dealing with the issue of the usual corrosion on the timing case cover on the 1200GS... and it is now looking peachy, after stripping right back to metal, treating with a few good coats of etch primer and four coats of Smoothrite.

I also happen to have a large can of heavy-duty Lacquer (the tough stuff used on alloy wheels - not for painted panels etc), and wonder whether I should give the finished item a few coats of this before removing the masking tape.

Does anybody know whether it's advisable or necessary to lacquer over smoothrite :nenau

Just wondering whether this might just present another opportunity for water to get between this and the paint when the inevitable stone chips appear.

Got rid of the sponge and replaced bolts with M4 Marine grade stainless...of course:thumb
Click to expand...


I was just about to start researching the best way to do this myself (manky timing cover bolts and lifting finish on the bottom of the casing)

Is it OK just to replace the timing cover bolts one by one without removing the cover (makes a decent paint job difficult I know) or is the only sensible way to dismantle ?

Is it just normal smoothrite silver you used and is the match OK ? Did you go for sparay or paintbrush ?

And what is "the sponge" ?

Thanks in advance for any tips to make the job easy :beerjug:
 
slartibartfast said:
Is it OK just to replace the timing cover bolts one by one without removing the cover (makes a decent paint job difficult I know) or is the only sensible way to dismantle ?
Click to expand...
Take them all out. The cover won't fall off, nothing will spring a leak.

Alternatively. leave them all in place and buy some Stainless ones, replace the painted ones after the job's done (with a healthy dab of anti-seize paste).
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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