Signs of final drive issues? 2010 GS TC

[dicktheleg]

I’m just in the process of replacing the speed sensor in the FD, so thought it a good idea to do an oil change too.

I’m concerned I might have impending issues, pics below are of the oil drained out.

I have no play in the bearings, no noise and everything seems just right for a 10k mile bike.

I’ve just found on another thread that the guy drained his oil had it had traces of moly grease in it from him lubing the input splines.

Is this what I’m seeing as I did a shaft / spline service a few months ago and was liberal with the moly grease, didn’t think it could get past the pinion seal though.

Absolutely no signs of debris in the drained oil and I after rummaging through with my fingers i put a magnet in it but no signs of anything metallic were collected.

Thoughts please?

TIA
Rich.

 

[Smiffypr]

I would guess that is water contamination.

 

[dicktheleg]

I would guess that is water contamination.

I did wonder about that but it was done 3k miles ago and has only been out in the wet once! Not submerged either.

 

[snelly]

The rear diff always makes a mess quicker than the gearbox oil; i change mine every year along with gearbox oil and the difference and smell between the two is very noticeable; for peace of mind i would refill it with the 90ep run it around for a day then drop it again for another refill thus giving everthing inside the case a flush; mine holds less than a ltr so it's no biggy.

 

[Deleted account 240901001]

Did you change the oil last? Previous owner put additive in?

 

[dicktheleg]

Did you change the oil last? Previous owner put additive in?

I changed it 2-3k miles ago, straight Castrol Syntrax 75-90, 180cc.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Mine never has that metallic look. Not sure how you think the moly would reach the inside of the drive? It does look very metallic though...

How was the magnet on the drain plug?

Mine often looks emulsified, meaning water must have gotten in. But I haven't worked how yet out yet - maybe it's normal for the Castrol Transmax I'm using?

I'd suggest refilling. Spin by hand a few times (100 revolutions?) then drain again and refill. After that, change again in 6 months to see how it is.

It's easy to get a little paranoid about these things - trust me, I've been there! Especially after having the 1150 - but if you just change the oil and keep an eye on play in the wheel then you should be ahead. They are re-buildable, which is likely just to be a dent in your wallet, no more

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[dicktheleg]

I agree Slippery, no idea how spline lube could get it but equally no idea how water could either.

I’ve put fresh oil in and will change it after a few miles, that’s the last of the Syntrax I have so maybe I’ll put a different 75-90 GL5 in next.

Nothing at all on the drain plug.

 

[Slipperyeel]

no idea how water could eiter

Nothing at all on the drain plug.

That's good news nothing on the drain plug.

If the breather on the drive is old, it'll have become a little rigid meaning it basically does working, so that's one place it can get in... The other is in through the input seal - but if that's gone, it won't be so long before that bearing gets it... But you say almost no riding in the rain. So as puzzled as you



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[Slipperyeel]

Can you shine a bright light through your old fluid. Might look better/more like 'oil' But also it might show particle size, if any at all

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[Andygbsmith]

I would put 500 miles on the new oil and drain again. That way you will see straight away if something is going on.
I guess you can’t feel any radial play in the bearings?

 

[dicktheleg]

I would put 500 miles on the new oil and drain again. That way you will see straight away if something is going on.
I guess you can’t feel any radial play in the bearings?

That’s my plan

No play whatsoever, no noises and everything nice and tight.

I’m suspecting contamination from the spline lube but no idea how that could happen.

Strange that the lube is white and there seems to be white stuff in the drained oil!

 

[Santa-2512]

Think my spline lubei used on the 06 hexhead was Black/ Grey

The boot lube was White

My rear hub was fubarred on the 06, it used to piss the oil out of the seal on the pretty side

Thre was play inthe bearings - you could feel it

Mikeyboy did a rebuild / refurb then it was fixed

 

[mpgscott]

I’m just in the process of replacing the speed sensor in the FD, so thought it a good idea to do an oil change too.

I’m concerned I might have impending issues, pics below are of the oil drained out.

I have no play in the bearings, no noise and everything seems just right for a 10k mile bike.

I’ve just found on another thread that the guy drained his oil had it had traces of moly grease in it from him lubing the input splines.

Is this what I’m seeing as I did a shaft / spline service a few months ago and was liberal with the moly grease, didn’t think it could get past the pinion seal though.

Absolutely no signs of debris in the drained oil and I after rummaging through with my fingers i put a magnet in it but no signs of anything metallic were collected.

Thoughts please?

TIA
Rich.

Hi Rich,

When I bought a TC few years back the play in the rear bearing was unreal more worrying was the seller wasn’t even aware!

Micky boy sorted it out perfectly and it was perfect after his touch.

I think if you’ve no play and it’s not making any concerning noises then it will be good. Do as your doing and change the oil regularly, I change mine out as often as the engine, doesn’t cost much and your able to keep an eye on it also.

 

[mikeyboy]

Perished swingarm boots,
Leading to input seal failure?
Corroded compression ring on input pinion

 

[dicktheleg]

Perished swingarm boots,
Leading to input seal failure?
Corroded compression ring on input pinion

Swing arm boots are perfect.

No signs of corrosion in, on or around the input pinion when I serviced it a couple of months ago.

I’ve just put second lot of fresh oil in the FD and I’ll run it a while then drain it and see.

I'll then drop the FD again and have another check around the input shaft.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Cheers
Rich

 

[botus]

the reason you should drive ANY vehicle for at least 10 miles once you have started it, is to allow for the condensation of cold starts / changing ambient temps etc. to burn off any moisture - to enable the oil to be oil, not trash.....