Yes just remove the light blue relay (ABS) in the fuse box and remove the bulb or bulbs in the dash
Can you please post some photos of what you did and how you did this. Thanks
Go and read the first post in the thread
This sounds good but does not help the no brake light issue. I have the same ABS unit you have pictured.Okay so there has been much talk of the "new" method, it has actually been around for quite a while!
I can claim no credit for this procedure and my apologies for schite photos it wasn't meant to be a process I just figured (when I was halfway through removing one for a mate) it was time folks stopped cutting their wiring looms and causing themselves grief
Why use it over the original first post ?? Okay whilst I did use that method a couple of times and it is fine it leaves a weak point in the wiring
Its "basically" the same process for any of the bikes with servo ABS the 1200 Hexhead bikes have no blue relay to "pull" and the GS has surface mount LED for warning lights so all you do is remove bulbs from the panels (or in the GS case paint the LED with black nail polish and/or the warning indicator cut out )
Its simple I snip the pipes with a decent pair of diagonal cutters Basically it seals the pipes and prevents fluid spillage as you lift the unit out
the electronics plug is removed by extending the slide lock and lifting up Careful you need this to refit so don't break it!
This is the bit that you need I cut the wires already I very much doubt anyone will ever have enough money to refit the ABS pump section and fear that they "might" wear through on components in the electronics You could fill the box with silicone and embed them Basically whatever floats your boat!
the are 4 connections from the electronics box and two from the ABS unit
A standard UK front or rear number plate cut to length is almost perfect for sealing the electronics box up
Yes it does (should), because retaining the ABS/Servo ECU retains standard operation of the tail/brake lights. I followed this approach a couple of months ago and it worked just fine - no wiring changes required.
Okay so have you checked the bulb and connections etc etc before you go down the line of snipping wires?
Can I assume, nothing worse than an assumptionI tap the electronics box and use short M5 screws with a smear of sealant on the faces just prior to bolting up (Obviously try not to get swarf in the box!! and if you do? Just blow it clear
two smaller bits of plate are also need to cover the side recesses and the white tape was just there to hold them in place whilst the sealer dried
Then you plug it back into the loom and refit it to the bike Its probably not necessary but I use something to dampen vibrations in this case a small bit of closed cell packaging foam
the two small wires are the brake fluid level connections and get a small smear of sealer to keep the water out and secured during the refit
That is it apart from re-piping and bleeding the brakes as per normal "non-abs" bikes and removing the remaining bulb from the instrument panel and pulling the blue relay in the fuse box
Good luck and Be sensible out there!!!
P.S. I usually fit much softer rear pads Sintered ones have very little "feel" with them when you move from Servo to standard braking again Ferodo Platinums have a decent "feel" after the servo is gone
, that I can remove / cut the wires from the ABS sensors, without any detrimental effect?
Ehm what bike??Can I assume, nothing worse than an assumption
Oops sorry. 1150GS
The front one can be unbolted from the fork and unplugged from the loom. The rear one needs unplugging and cutting off at the sensor otherwise you have a large hole left in the final drive.
The job has taken me longer than it should have, as I've cleaned years of congealed muck from the battery / servo area. When I bought the bike nearly 20 years ago, I slathered Waxoyl under the tank, and in most places not normally seen. Over the years I added to the mess by spraying ACF50 over it as well.
and everything below the mess is lovely and shiny Yaaaay
First ride without the servo.
I copied your idea for the front brake line......ground off the tag and turned the splitter and it worked excellent.The brake failure I had on holiday was terminal as I expected - fried circuit board in the ABS ECU.
Yesterday I performed a 'servoectomy' and have decided to post the procedures in case it helps anyone else in a similar situation.
The servo removal and reconnection of pipework and electrics was carried out using existing parts only - it has cost me absolutely nothing apart from time and a few consumables.
Start with removal of the servo system itself together with redundant metal pipework - been documented on here numerous times and is relatively straightforward.
Reconnect the rear brake hose directly to the top of the master cylinder using the domed hex head brake fitting
Remove both flexible hoses and both rigid metal pipes from the front distribution piece,
Remove distribution piece - you will notice a small 'tag' on the reverse which locates against the frame and effectively fixes the orientation of the bracket.
By grinding/filing off this tag it is possible to realign the distribution piece as per the attached photograph and connect the two flexible hoses together using the existing connectors in the top metal socket (the one with two holes the same size).
That's the brakes reconnected - now bleed and sort the electrics to give you a brake and tail light again.
This is a piece of proverbial despite what others may have written about it - you dont even need any extra parts !!
1) Remove the blue ABS relay from the fusebox. This will extinguish the 'Brake Failure' warning light on the dash and as a bonus can be used to operate the brake light !! (no need for new switches as in other methods )
2) Strip back the sheathing from the ABS multi pin connector - identify wires and connect as follows
a) Grey/White wire (tail light feed) Grey/Black wire (12v feed) cut both and join together - thats your tail light sorted.
b) White/Yellow wire (front brake switch) and Yellow/Green wire (rear brake switch). Cut these two wires and join them to link brake switches
Now the wiring to the redundant 4 pin ABS relay
c) Pin 1 - Connect white/blue wire
d) Pin 2 - connect the THIN solid brown wire in the loom to provide a ground ( careful here - there are several brown wires c/w coloured traces and a Thick brown wire)
e) Pin 3 - Find the Yellow/Black wire and the solid green wire. Cut and connect these together and then to pin 3 of the relay
f) Pin 4 - Connect grey/yellow (tail light feed) to this pin
That all there is to it - you now have working brakes and lights.
I tidied things up by cutting and isolating all remaing wires on the ABS plug.
I have located the relay on the back of the battery under the seat so it can easily be changed if needed,
May consider fitteng some braided steel lines in due course, but for now, the bike is up and running, without any cost or waiting for parts - this may just help someone 'in the field' in the future
Dave H
::.Edit.::
Alternative less invasive method is available with Pictures @ post 195 here
