BigBugger.
I removed my ABS unit a few weeks ago for the same reasons as you.
I have since been on a 3,000 mile trip to the Pyrenees and have had no problems with the now simplified braking system.
The bike definitely feels lighter (well it did before I loaded it up for the trip) and I am at last able to modulate the brakes for slow speed manoeuvres. Overall the brakes feel just as good as before with the added bonus of feedback from the road.
I just need to get used to having non-linked brakes again, which won’t be too difficult as I rode normally braked bikes for years before I got my Beemer.
My biggest problem was bleeding the back brake, because I had drained the circuit there was an airlock in the master cylinder. Having watched Blue Peter when I was a boy I found the solution to my bleeding problem in an old washing up liquid bottle; and me being a good boy,I asked permission first and I didn't work on the good dining room table.
After washing out the remains of the washing up liquid and drying the bottle I drilled out the hole in the cap to 6mm and screwed in one of the now redundent bleed screws from the servo/abs unit.
I then fitted a length of plastic tube to the nipple before replacing the cap, I squeezed the bottle and used the suction within to drain out the fluid reservoir and then reloaded the bottle with some clean fluid. The other end of the tube was then attached to the bleed nipple on the rear calliper and the bottle inverted, it took a bit of squeezing and tapping to get all the air out of the tube and into the bottle before I could open the bleed nipple and squeezed the fluid in to the calliper. Keep an eye on the fluid reservoir wile pumping the fluid in as I only just stopped before it overflowed. This cleared the air lock and I was able to purge the little bit of air left in the system using the traditional methood of tube and jar.
Oh, and I used a relay to save changing the brake switches.
Heres the parts list and wiring I used for the absectomy on my R1150R. Wiring on the R1150GS is the same and as far as I know should also be the same parts.
(Part numbers are from
Motorworks.)
BRA50965 Brake line splitter
SS00470 Stainless steel bleed nipple M6 to replace the original one in the rear calliper because it will probably break
SSA00475 Stainless steel carrier for M6 nipple (SS00470)
BRA63072 Copper sealing washers you will need 6
A four pin or 5 pin change over relay, or if your into reusing parts you can use the 4 pin ABS light relay which will be removed from the bike in order to extinguish the warning light.
Wiring
When the plug to the ABS unit is removed you can access the wiring loom by cutting the cable tie on the back of the plug and unclipping the cover, undo the insulating tape and pull back the braided sleeve.
Locate the following wires.
Tail Light = Gray / White wire and Gray / Black wire, connect these two together and you have a taillight.
Front Brake Switch - = White / Yellow and the
Rear Brake Switch + = Yellow / Green. Connect these two together to link the switches.
Earth. = Brown there are 3 of them check that the one you choose goes to earth. Connect to pin 2 of the BMW 4 pin relay, or pin 85 if using 5-pin relay.
Brake light = Gray / Yellow. Connect to pin 4 of the BMW relay, or pin 87a if using 5-pin relay.
Front brake switch + = White / Blue. Connect to pin 1 on the BMW relay or Pin 86 if using 5-pin relay.
12Volt+ =Green
Rear brake switch - = Yellow / Black. Connect both this one and the 12 volt + = Green to pin 3 of the BMW relay or pin 30 if using a 5 pin relay.
You should now have a working tail and brake light.
Hope this helps.