Slipping Clutch

[jimcg]

I am having the following problem with my 1150 and would like to tap into the vast range of technical knowledge out there. When in E at around 85mph if I give it a large hadfull of throttle the revs rise but the bike does not accelerate. To me this seems to be a straight forward case of the clutch slipping but why cant I recreate this under different conditions. I have tried a full throttle roll on from 1300rpm in 5th gear and the bike just pulls no sign of slippage, full throttle acceleration from low speeds and in 4th/5th on very steep hills and the bike again just pulls.
So why does it only slip in E from 85ish mph??

 

[turbine_2]

When the clutch stated to slip on mine it was when pulling away. The easiest way to check was to pull away in sencond and open the throttle fully as the clutch stopped biting, then as with you the revs would rise and stabilise but the speed took longer to catch up.

It could be that your clutch is only starting to slip and as it gets worse you'll find it doing the same at lower speeds.

Other thing, do you have bar mufs? If so, check they're not pushing the clutch in at speed.

 

[shready]

You have exactly the same symptoms as I had on my 1100GS this time last year.

I could not always recreate the problem straight after it happened. Basically when I was moving along at about 70/80 ish in 5th and I went to overtake the revs would rise the bike continued at the same speed and then accelerated and the revs would drop to normal.

Unfortunately it's new clutch time I reckon!

What could also of happened is that the oil seal from the gearbox is leaking and that has contaminated the clutch with oil. If that is the case it's still a new clutch with the addition of fixing the seal.

Jon

 

[needlongerlegs]

New Clutch plate and Oil Seal

or maybe get away with a new crankshaft oil seal but once its in bits....

Sounds a bit like oil contamination, only gives way at high torque to turn ratio if you know what I mean.

G..

 

[turbine_2]

What could also of happened is that the oil seal from the gearbox is leaking and that has contaminated the clutch with oil. If that is the case it's still a new clutch with the addition of fixing the seal.

Which is exactly what happened to mine at 18,000 miles. Luckily fixed under warantee.

 

[hops]

Adjustment

Before shelling out on a new clutch etc. it is worth checking the adjustment is correct. You should have about 5-7mm of slack in the lever at the bar end. i.e. You should be able to pull the clutch lever in so there is a gap of 5-7mm between the end of the lever closest to the cable and the bracket retaining the lever assembly to the bars. Hope this make sense!

 

[Rabbitson]

Sounds like the clutch has had it to me.

I had the same thing on my 1100 about a year ago when it had about 36,000 miles on it.

Opening the throttle to overtake cars on the motorway, at all other times it behaved fine.

I tried adjusting the clutch mechanism first, but it didn't help.

New clutch resolved it, no more problems 20,000 odd miles later.

HTH,

David

 

[Rabbitson]

Just as an extra point, you can see visually how worn out the clutch is by looking how far in or out the mechanism is at the back of the clutch housing.

 

[ferguscawley]

Try this

 

[Den]

1150 has hydraulic clutch.. cant be cable adjustment

 

[ferguscawley]

Ooops - forgot it was an 1150 he had. I keep thinking the world revolves around 1100s

 

[boxer]

Remove the starter motor and you should be able to see the condition and thickness of the friction materail.

Like this.............


Russ

 

[jimcg]

Guys
Thanks very much for your help I will look to pulling the starter moteor off and hopefully that will show me enough to decide if I need to split the bike in half to replace the clutch

Cheers