Snapped cylinder guard bolt

[haydw]

Servicing my bike last night and when removing the right hand ADV cylinder guard I snapped the head off the bolt at the front of the protector , the one nearest the exhaust header.

They are aftermarket stainless steel so should have thought more about copaslipping them before installation, I now have a piece of thread approx a nuts width. Can get one nut on but not another so I could try the locking nut method.

Any suggestions as to how I safely remove the threaded portion that remains?

 

[Greenman14]

Can you file down 2 nuts so the combined thickness is the same as one? Ride it down to a friendly welder who could put a dab of weld on to weld the nut to the exposed stud? File 2 flats on the exposed section and use mole grips? I wouldn't fancy drilling out the stud for a stud extractor but it's an option, buy a new sharp set of drills and start small, gradually increasing the diameter until it's big enough to get the stud extractor in- which will then break and you're royally fcuked!

 

[DGB]

If you know of anyone with an external stud extractor there should be enough purchase on the remaining bolt to get it out. Drilling and using an inner extractor is the other option, as has been said, and is a complete pain, as has been said. If you go the latter route get very good extractor bits - no Chinese shite as they will break & then you're neck deep in it!
Good luck.

 

[Lunepilot]

Don't use the internal extractors they are as good as useless and will give you a world of grief if they break,Which they usually do.


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[haditlowered]

Servicing my bike last night and when removing the right hand ADV cylinder guard I snapped the head off the bolt at the front of the protector , the one nearest the exhaust header.

They are aftermarket stainless steel

This won't help... but.. this is a good example of the perils of Stainless replacement bolts, they don't have the "sheer strength" and thats why i put up with the minor corrosion of OEM tensile bolt heads - if you are tempted with Stainless cos the head looks pretty sticking out of a casing get the highest sheer strength you can and don't be tempted with cheap sets.

 

[Mistacat]

If it sheared off undoing it chances are you will need to drill it out.
With stainless run the drill very slowly with plenty of coolant and pressure /Feed.
I no longer bother welding nuts on as it only works on odd occasions and by the time I have removed the ECU ( probably not necessary but never prepared to risk it with a customers bike) I can have drilled it out and if necessary helicoiled it.
As previously stated use a centre drill then small pilot drill take your time.
Left handed drill bits work well as they will often pick up and spin the remaining stud out when you get past the corrosion point.