So, can you get a swing arm with bezel attached onto the drive shaft (R1150GS Adv)...

Mike F

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I have heard tales of coiled ropes or nests of cloth and keeping your fingers crossed that the stars align.

So its a 2002 R1150GSA that I have swapped a gearbox on. I could take the bezel drive off and do all that malarky to set it up again after. Or I could just lob it all in there in one go if only I could get the shafts to "mate".

Keen to give it a go keeping it intact.

Anyone done it successfully, or is it an urban myth?

The shafts don't seem to be keyed so I wasn't going to worry about getting it all "in phase", another urban myth I reckon. or at the least the slight effect being out of phase will have on an old knacker like mine that gets thrashed off road won't be worth worrying about.

All tips and advice appreciated. Yes, I know - take the rope out....
 
All tips and advice appreciated. ...

No you can't do what you want to do.
Well, you may be able to but i expect it'll be hours of frustration before you get lucky and it all fits together.

But why even try ? you only have to undo the two paralever bolts and let the bevel drive swing down while still attached to the paralever arm, line up the long shaft with the short shaft and pop in back in place. Takes all of 5 minutes.
 
But why even try ? you only have to undo the two paralever bolts and let the bevel drive swing down while still attached to the paralever arm, line up the long shaft with the short shaft and pop in back in place. Takes all of 5 minutes.

Well if anyone could do it, it would be you!

I initially tried to release the lock nut on the pin and it wouldn't budge. Checked on the forum that it wasn't a reverse thread or anything silly, saw the bit about heating the pin to free the locking compound etc and then saw a mention of this "trick". Thought it worth a try.

Got a rope and tomorrow night pencilled in for a session in the shed so will try - but will be armed with a gas soldering iron to do it the "proper" way....

Note to self - release the big nut when the swing arms on the bike next time!
 
Did the gearbox on my r1150gs put a rt box in as the original was mega loud even for my bad hearing ! doing the shafts was easy used a white tire marker pen perfect ,plenty of spline lube , while it was out I put a new clutch in so far s good .
 
...............The shafts don't seem to be keyed so I wasn't going to worry about getting it all "in phase", another urban myth I reckon. or at the least the slight effect being out of phase will have on an old knacker like mine that gets thrashed off road won't be worth worrying about....

It's not an urban myth about phasing, it's a scientific fact that an out of phase drive shaft will give you vibration, because the rear wheel is not turning at the same constant velocity as the output from the gear box.

A tooth here or there on the spline might not be noticeable, but 90 deg out of phase will be.

Hard to believe I know, but watch the video.

https://youtu.be/DDmz0tibVGM

But you're right that if you're only doing mainly off road stuff, you are unlikely to notice.

:thumb2
Ian
 
It's not an urban myth about phasing, it's a scientific fact that an out of phase drive shaft will give you vibration, because the rear wheel is not turning at the same constant velocity as the output from the gear box.

A tooth here or there on the spline might not be noticeable, but 90 deg out of phase will be.

Hard to believe I know, but watch the video.

https://youtu.be/DDmz0tibVGM

But you're right that if you're only doing mainly off road stuff, you are unlikely to notice.

:thumb2
Ian
Good video, but surely you mean 45 degrees out of phase?
 
Good video, but surely you mean 45 degrees out of phase?

If you take an in Phase drive shaft and turn one of the U/J's through 180 degrees, it will be back in phase, so anything from 0 to 180 degrees of mis alignment is out of phase, but at 90 degrees they are at the peak of miss alignment.

That probably doesn't make sense. It's difficult to explain in words, which is why the video explains it better.

:thumb2
Ian
 
If you take an in Phase drive shaft and turn one of the U/J's through 180 degrees, it will be back in phase, so anything from 0 to 180 degrees of mis alignment is out of phase, but at 90 degrees they are at the peak of miss alignment.

That probably doesn't make sense. It's difficult to explain in words, which is why the video explains it better.

:thumb2
Ian
If, however, you swing it 90 degrees out of phase, it will be back in phase, albeit with the opposite side of the Hooke joint. The centre of the Hooke joint will still be in the same position as it was if the joint were turned through another 90 degrees.
Now I would always assemble as you suggest, but really, it should make no difference. The largest out of phase condition is at 45 degrees. It is really worth looking on it as just a sine wave.
Myke
 
If, however, you swing it 90 degrees out of phase, it will be back in phase, albeit with the opposite side of the Hooke joint. The centre of the Hooke joint will still be in the same position as it was if the joint were turned through another 90 degrees.
Now I would always assemble as you suggest, but really, it should make no difference. The largest out of phase condition is at 45 degrees. It is really worth looking on it as just a sine wave.
Myke

No.

The drive shaft U/J's have to be a mirror image of one another otherwise the shaft is not in phase. You would think that 90 degree misaligned would be OK but it isn't. In the video they turn one of the U/J's through 90 degrees to demonstrate the misalignment.

Ian
 
it does make a difference
I thought I had it right and it wasn't.
Would fall in to corners going one way (left?) and had to really push it to round corners the other way (right?)

I just had mine off recently - the whole paralever drive train and found that one install was better than the other - as in, install the rear most UJ, look at it, does it line up?
then rotate it 180 degrees - does it line up better?
I felt that mine did, I checked it a couple of times

thats my experience and others may differ
 
Just take it all apart. It's really not a big job. As steptoe said, you'll have hours of frustration and then only 1 in 18 chance of getting the UJs lined up (I'm making up those odds, exactly how many splines are on the shaft?!).

I don't think it really matters if you're using it off road or on. You want to reassemble it once only knowing is right. No?
 


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