Welcome to the oft slagged 1200gs oil head section fella. Had my big Gert from new in 2010. Love mine warts an all and the bikes not bad either
So, what's it like in here then?...
- Thread starter MattW
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Welcome, be careful as the place is filling up with grumpy old men, seems the 1200 air cooled bikes are the new 1150's. Eau de cabbage after shave optional.
Welcome to the oft slagged 1200gs oil head section fella. Had my big Gert from new in 2010. Love mine warts an all and the bikes not bad either
Lol
Bendy toy
Registered user
Mine has its annoying feature but still by far the best bike I've ridden.
Deleted account 200502001
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Its shit in here, I've been trying to get out but they won't let me. Its like a reoccurring nightmare.
I've just done a deal on an approved used 4k 2012 twincam GSA (traded in my venerable 1100). Looking forward to seeing what all the fuss is about
What's it like?
Full of the joys of bling
You need to buy an LC to leave here....
Deleted account 200502001
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Bendy toy
Registered user
Get some helicopter tape on the swing arm side where boot heel can rub. Also on fork leg lowers especially prone to stone chips.
Take out the bottom bolts on the engine timing cover and slather on lots of good quality high solids copper grease. The inevitable corrosion is usually related to bolts rather than stone chips. Also take the alternator belt cover off and do the same with all screws.
Negative attitude? Not at all. It's a smart bike and this will keep it smart.
Take out the bottom bolts on the engine timing cover and slather on lots of good quality high solids copper grease. The inevitable corrosion is usually related to bolts rather than stone chips. Also take the alternator belt cover off and do the same with all screws.
Negative attitude? Not at all. It's a smart bike and this will keep it smart.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Reading my words again. I should have said use lots of copper grease on threads and under bolt heads. Too much into the bolt holes can build up hydraulic pressure inside. So smear the threads and put a splodge under bolt heads.
Forgive me if I'm telling granny to suck eggs.
On mine the timing case bolt holes had corroded also the top bolts holding the plastic belt cover had self welded into place. They just snapped off effortlessly and had to be drilled out. The upper ones have open threads letting the weather get into the threads.
Forgive me if I'm telling granny to suck eggs.
On mine the timing case bolt holes had corroded also the top bolts holding the plastic belt cover had self welded into place. They just snapped off effortlessly and had to be drilled out. The upper ones have open threads letting the weather get into the threads.
Reading my words again. I should have said use lots of copper grease on threads and under bolt heads. Too much into the bolt holes can build up hydraulic pressure inside. So smear the threads and put a splodge under bolt heads.
Forgive me if I'm telling granny to suck eggs.
On mine the timing case bolt holes had corroded also the top bolts holding the plastic belt cover had self welded into place. They just snapped off effortlessly and had to be drilled out. The upper ones have open threads letting the weather get into the threads.
On mine, the front cover screws and plastic belt cover screws are slightly corroded (those, the power valve pipe section and a couple of marks onthe front balance pipe are the only real evidence of corrosion). It has obviously never had any real anti-corrosion spray on it in its 4000 mile life. The dealer valeted and acf 50'd it before I picked it up to stop it getting any worse but I'm going to grease the screws as you suggest. I usually use a zinc chromate paste (duralac) when fitting stainless screws into alloy casings but copperslip is probably more appropriate for the OEM zinc plated fasteners?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Duralac is a marine quality product intended to electrically insulate the metals. Marine stuff is as tough as it gets so Duralac is likely to be as good as it gets.
I don't know the technical details of how copper works but previously dry and corroded bolts on my bike have stayed ok with high solids copper grease.
I don't know the technical details of how copper works but previously dry and corroded bolts on my bike have stayed ok with high solids copper grease.
