Solo Trip Spares - I have cleared out a lot of stuff... but have I been to ruthless?

[tyclyd]

Lucky enough to have another long break from work this year and over the 3 months in the summer I will expect to do a further 15,000 solo miles on my 12yr old 1150GSA currently with 98,000 miles, I know her inside out so the gearbox, final drive, coils, hall sensors, ABS, Wilburs and clutch are all perfect (winter rebuilds).

I have stripped out of my travel kit a lot of stuff I hauled for comfort but never used... so I have settled on the stuff below which I have used or needed in the past, add to this my puncture stuff, cable ties and gorilla tape – think I have got it covered, but am I missing anything obvious. I only take what I know I can fix...

Fuel tank O rings x 2
Spark Plug – BKR7EKC x 1
Spark Plug – DCPR8EKC x 1
Spokes (front and rear) x 2 each
Spoke Grub Screws and spoke bolts x 4
Fuel line clips and clamps x 2 each size
Oil pressure switch x 1
Oil sight glass and retaining ring x 1
Oil filler cap and O ring x 1
Fuel line or rings x 4
Rear shock mounting bolt x 1
Rear calliper bolts x 2
Front calliper bolts x 2
Crush washers (sump & gearbox) x 2
Bash plate sacrificial bolts x 2
Bash plate sheer rubbers x 2
Rear pads x 1 pair
Rear calliper overhaul kits and pin
Crimp connectors 6mm and 4mm x 2 male & 2 female
Fuses and fuse puller
Wire splicing joints / connectors x 4
Male and female pre-wired jump connectors
Bash plate bracket mounting bolt
Fuel pump (Audi) x 1
Alternator belt
Araldite rapid x 1
Milliput black x 1
Quick steel x 1
Wire thin wall red 50cm
Wire thin wall black 50cm
M6 and M4 stainless bolts (15-45mm)

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[Aidan1150]

Most if the things on your list should be available pretty much anywhere so I wouldn't bother to be honest. Alternator belt, FD bearing and seal would be the main items I'd carry. And if going really far then maybe a HES sensor.

 

[fatnfast]

I have taken a load of photos of the workshop manual wiring diagrams. Stored on my phone it allows me to zoom in on specific areas, such as where I need to 'hot wire' the bike if the small ignition loom fails etc.
Also a space cpc connector and a bit of fuel line so the tank can be drained. These double up as a spare injector fuel line and connector as well.

 

[tyclyd]

Most if the things on your list should be available pretty much anywhere so I wouldn't bother to be honest. Alternator belt, FD bearing and seal would be the main items I'd carry. And if going really far then maybe a HES sensor.

Forgot the belt - its on my list now, I was carrying FD bearing and seal but as its not a solo roadside fix for me i don't bother now - where as a dead fuel pump has stopped me for almost week in the past...

 

[monkeyboy]

It would be useful to know where you plan to go - that would make a lot of difference to what I would carry.

Forget the plugs, all the rubber bungs. Why carry 4 o rings? Or 4 brake bolts? Forget the oil sight glass. Rear pads and kit? Ditch those as long as you change before you go. 2 fuel tank o rings?? Same with the spokes. I rather think at 100k it'll be dam near impossible to get them out the rim. Forget the oil pressure switch too.

I take

fuel pump
rear bearing, seal, 30mm socket and breaker bar + 12mm hex. So you can't fix it yourself - someone local will be able to with the right tools.
fuses
cable ties
gaffer tape
multimeter
various spanners/sockets/torx/hex
HES

If you're going to do a lot of rough roading then I would put tape over various bolts like the bar ends and panier fixings - that's where I lost all mine anyway!

and that's about it. The world is growing ever smaller and you can get stuff to you anywhere PDQ... except in China from my experience

 

[Tsiklonaut]

The shorter list is pretty much it. I've carried HES forever but never needed it, ditto on fuel pump. But you never know.

Take 30mm socket + 12mm hex only if you plan to work on paralever (those bearings can go as well).

For FD bearing change you only need a 7mm hex - note it's a rare measure key you can't get everywhere (not sure if 1150 has the same or is it torx). Assuming you have they keys to get the rear wheel off of course + original bike keys to remove the breake caliper. 19mm key to open the drain plug.

There's absolutely NO need to take off the complete FD end joint to replace the main bearing. In fact you don't even have to remove ABS sensor to do this, with wheel off drain the oil & just remove the circle of 7mm hex bolts and take it off, doesn't even require heating to dismantle it. It's that easy and it's strange why most people still take off the complete FD end to do the same job.

Clean the metal debris crap out from the case-side (that still sits on the swingarm).

Only getting off the bearing from the crownwheel is the biggest challange.

This way the FD change is easily doable on the roadside if you have a (spirit- or gas-) cooker & something to punch with (i.e. a thicker screwdriver to sacrifice) inbetween the bearing and crownwheel to get the bearing out. Slowly but brutally working around it you can get it moving with a lot of heat. Cool down the crownwheel and heat up the new bearing to some 120 degrees (impossible to touch it), it then goes on with little force needed (only punch from the inner cirlce of the bearing when you need to). Filter out old transmission oil as much as you can with a toilet paper to separate the metal debris. Put the old filtered oil back in & temporarely you can fill up with an engine oil and you're good to go for thousands of miles till you can fill up completely with a fresh transmission oil.

Did this on Congo-Angola border once, the same bearing still holds today.