Someone found a LED for the taillight that does not trigger an error on the display?

[jogo]

Hi,
when the last tail light bulb burnt out I thought I just put in a LED for getting some more light at the rear and no need for further replacement.

I bought a LED advertised as being CAN-bus compatible, actually the "bulb-finder-tool" on the suppliers webpage pointed specifically to the LED I bought for my specific bike.
The LED works, both as tail light and brake light and is very bright but triggers the error on the display. Supplier is taking the LED back, but if there is a LED that works in the R12GS, I would be interested.

Thanks in advance.

 

[bikemad]

You need a resistor to fool it that's all it's a plug n play unit or have the crap standard light unit,mine fell apart when I was getting ready to go away couldn't belive how cheaply made they are seen better on chineese mopeds ! & the japs have done quality ones since year dot but no BMW think they know better

I'd get the whole lamp replacement if I was you not just the plug in led replace bulb board,some on eBay around £40 from Ireland would've got one if I still had the GS.

 

[bikemad]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200...ked-OEM-fit-/171630759904?hash=item27f5fd8fe0

 

[jogo]

Thank you bikemad ,
while I fully agree with your comments about the quality (or lack thereof) of the BMW taillight I am not quite ready to go for buying a complete new taillight. It might not be compatible with the CAN-bus either and then I would have spent some £60-70 with transport, tax, customs and be not able to give it back...

I considered adding a resistor to the LED I bought but read that those get pretty hot. I was not too sure if that would cause problems inside the taillight...

Was therefore hoping someone had found a LED that works with the CAN-bus.

Cheers

 

[Bendy toy]

Someone found a LED for the taillight that does not trigger an error on the d...

Resister can be anywhere in series with bulb. Need not be inside the light unit.
I will use about 4.5 watts plus 0.5 watts for LED. Brake light resistor and LED are 4x that but light for only a few seconds at a time.

 

[Yellow Peril]

It's not necessarily the bulb failing the unit itself gets pretty shitty at the terminals, best bet find 2nd hand oem unit get the adapter cables no more problems.

 

[Bear]

Resister can be anywhere in series with bulb. Need not be inside the light unit.
I will use about 4.5 watts plus 0.5 watts for LED. Brake light resistor and LED are 4x that but light for only a few seconds at a time.

The resistors (one each for stop light and tail light) go in parallel with the bulbs, not in series. They're needed to waste power to fool the ZFE module into seeing the low-resistance bulbs its programming expects, not the high-resistance leds that fashion and a desire for reliability demand. For the tail light I'd suggest 27 ohms as being the nearest standard value and for the stop light 8.2 ohms. Power ratings are the same as the bulbs being simulated. The stop light resistor will get hot but only for short periods whereas the tail light resistor will be hot all the time and needs either a decent size heat sink (i.e. a sheet of metal bolted to it) or a lot of air flowing round it.

 

[bikemad]

I was going to drill out the rubbish & fit a metal spring loaded holder like this,but after writing my GS off no need now lol