Sometimes starts sometimes not

[Orinoco]

I've read the sticky on dodgy starters, but no mention of the symptoms other than sluggish.

My bike (1100GS) increasingly refuses to start, there's no sound at all when the starter button is pressed, so likely to be a dodgy starter, relay or switch? Any pointers on where to start... or am I best finding an auto electrician to have a look?

TIA

 

[flatdog]

How long after you have last used it.
clicking can be loose wiring.
Sluggish can mean either battery /starter on its way out.
No sound = side stand switch can fail, as can the clutch switch.

Give us more info on what you've done to make her start. Sounds like a failing side stand/clutch switch.
Have you tried shorting the starter solonoid to get her started or spinning yet?
Ie: If she is dead when you press the button, try shorting the solenoid on the starter. If the engine spinns ok, then it probably is a microswitch.

Disclaimer, other peeps are much more skilled at diagnosing symptoms than I, so lets see what they offer.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

If you can get a neutral light, the neutral switch will be OK.

If you can get the motronic to power up and the fuel pump,to prime, then the kill switch should be OK.

Like wise the side stand switch will be OK as it is in line with the kill switch.

Battery --------Ignition switch ------ side stand switch -------- kill switch-------- to the start switch.

The start switch feeds power to the coil of the starter relay, the earth for the coil comes from earth via either the neutral switch or the clutch switch.

So pressing the start button you should at least her the start relay clicking unless it is U/S given all the input to it are OK. (power and earth) the relay pulls in and then sends battery power to the starter motor (small black wire).

 

[Ian J Hartley]

IF you think the starter relay is faulty, you can replace it with a standard automotive relay type A. Make sure it is a type A as any other type could damage your bike. The type A has the coil and contactor positioned on the same blades as those of the BMW relay

The Type A has 4 blades where as the standard BMW yellow relay has 5 blades. With a type A relay fitted, the blade for normal starting is missing (5th blade) therefore you will need to hold in the clutch to operate the clutch switch to start your bike.

 

[Orinoco]

Thanks folks, I'll have a play, starting with the relay. It's an intermittent fault so extra annoying.

Neutral light always come on fine, but sometimes pushing the starter nothing happens, other times it starts absolutely fine. so on the basis than when it doesn't start there's no relay click I'm going to start (ha) with that.

Cheers

 

[topcat2006]

A mate had a similar fault with a K100 which uses the same switchgear as the R1100GS. It turned out that one of the contacts at the back of the start switch had broken off the rivet and as such was sometimes and sometimes not making a circuit.

 

[Orinoco]

Still no joy with this.

I've shorted out the side stand switch, so the bike now starts with the stand down, but the problem is still there. I've noticed that neutral light does not always come on, this is when it won't start and sometimes it does come on with the ignition, but a few seconds later.

So, probably the clutch switch?

 

[Disaster Area]

My Nike had this problem the other week. It might be worth checking the battery terminals: one of mine had come loose, rotated and was shorting against the fuel tank.

This is a really quick and easy thing to check, so thought I'd suggest it.

 

[Orinoco]

Thanks, it's not the battery leads, checked them

 

[Timolgra]

I've noticed that neutral light does not always come on, this is when it won't start

So, probably the clutch switch?

Crucial info