7 up is lemonade.
Greg
Greg
Sounds like a tin bucket full of nuts and Bolts
- Thread starter delpel
- Start date
delpel said:yes, yes and I think so
At TDC one set of valves was wobbly so I adjusted them. When i turned the motor by had the other side went all wobbly
The engine was unusually noisey before I swopped the tensioner. Clutching at straws with that one.
All the spaces in my tool box are full so I think I have all my spanners
I really don't mean to be patronising here, but i suspect that you are working at the very edge of your knowledge envelope here or beyond it even!
More questions:
- EXACTLY what clearance did you set each of the valves at? (Please state imperial or metric)
- Did you recheck the clearance when you had retightened the locking nut?
- (Did you retighten the locking nut?)
- When you say 'at TDC' - how do you know it was at TDC?
- Which TDC was it at?
- Do you understand the last question?
- No? This could be your problem!
Greg
delpel
Registered user
Greg Masters said:I really don't mean to be patronising here, but i suspect that you are working at the very edge of your knowledge envelope here or beyond it even!
More questions:
- EXACTLY what clearance did you set each of the valves at? (Please state imperial or metric)
- Did you recheck the clearance when you had retightened the locking nut?
- (Did you retighten the locking nut?)
- When you say 'at TDC' - how do you know it was at TDC?
- Which TDC was it at?
- Do you understand the last question?
- No? This could be your problem!
Greg
Interesting Greg.
I have been getting specs from the workshop manual. So In answer to your questions:
1, Inlet =0.15mm Outlet=0.30mm using 2 feeler gauges to prevent rocking.
2, Checked and rechecked clearances after tightening down the lock nut.
3, Yep Lock nut tightened using a small ratchet so as not to exert to much tightening force.
4, TDC found by removing little rubber bung and rotating engine in a clockwise direction as you look at it until the little line under the OT mark is in the middle of the hole where the rubber bung was. I even managed to replace the rubber bung without pushing it all the way into the engine
5, Now you've lost me. When I set it to TDC then I adjusted the valves that were loose. The other set where tight so I adjusted them after I had rotated the engine throught 360deg.
Have I missed something then? is there another TDC.
The engine runs sweet apart from the tappetty rattles. Bearing in mind she has stood for nearly 2 years after coming to a rather abrupt stop and being laid down on her right hand side. Crash bars are marvalous and I'm sure saved her from a lot more damage.
Your right, I am working at the edge of my knowledge envelope which is why I ask am unseemingly endless list of questions. Trying to use the collective knowledge of riders who may have experience of this. But he ho I'm willing to have a stab at it. It's not rocket science after all
Unfortuently I don't have the luxury of a competent dealer on my doorstep or indeed in the same country.
Cheers
there's TDC top dead centre, and there's TDC compression. a 4 stroke engine does 2 rotations of the crank for each firing stroke.
you need to be at TDC when the valves are closed & compression is max.
it sounds like you probably got the right one, but i'm not sure. it's not how i'd do it, but i know old school car mechanics use a similar method sometimes.
personally, i stick my finger in the plug hole & rotate the engine with the rear wheel until i feel compression, then get TDC by sticking a screwdriver down* & feeling the position of the piston. i rarely bother with the timing marks, a few degrees either way makes no difference. it's being on the base circle of the cam that's important.
* be careful doing this with a 2 valve engine with offset plughole
you need to be at TDC when the valves are closed & compression is max.
it sounds like you probably got the right one, but i'm not sure. it's not how i'd do it, but i know old school car mechanics use a similar method sometimes.
personally, i stick my finger in the plug hole & rotate the engine with the rear wheel until i feel compression, then get TDC by sticking a screwdriver down* & feeling the position of the piston. i rarely bother with the timing marks, a few degrees either way makes no difference. it's being on the base circle of the cam that's important.
* be careful doing this with a 2 valve engine with offset plughole
delpel
Registered user
cookie said:
So when the valves are closed & compression is max that must be when the rockers are not touching the buckets and you can wiggle them back and forth. Must be my technical descriptions - wiggle and wobble.
PHEW had me worried there thought I may be all out of sync (would the engine start if I was
)
Yes, cookie's on the money here!
You need to ensure that you're checking the clearance when the cam lobe is on the base circle. To abolutely ensure that you are doing this, rotate the crack until the valve you wish to check is fully open. Then rotate the crank by a further 360 degrees. By doing that, the camshaft will rotate 180 degrees ensuring that the opening lobe is furthest away from the cam follower and that the cam follower is neither riding on the opening nor closing ramp. A few degrees of camshaft rotation in either direction won't matter.
Greg
You need to ensure that you're checking the clearance when the cam lobe is on the base circle. To abolutely ensure that you are doing this, rotate the crack until the valve you wish to check is fully open. Then rotate the crank by a further 360 degrees. By doing that, the camshaft will rotate 180 degrees ensuring that the opening lobe is furthest away from the cam follower and that the cam follower is neither riding on the opening nor closing ramp. A few degrees of camshaft rotation in either direction won't matter.
Greg
delpel
Registered user
Greg Masters said:
Well guys, I just followed the procedure in the Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies as posted at the ADVriders web site.
So how do I get access to the cam followers
delpel said:
that's the theory, but i don't do it like that. i don't trust it as a system.
i KNOW my way works
delpel said:So how do I get access to the cam followers
All the rocker/valve gear off -
You mention it went down on one side in the crash -
I've had a couple of bikes i bought with seemingly minor damage , i.e. scufs on the rocker covers, tappety on start up .
And it turned out the head had moved slightly in the impact, and the piston had caught the head .
Don't you love good news
delpel
Registered user
Steptoe said:All the rocker/valve gear off -
You mention it went down on one side in the crash -
I've had a couple of bikes i bought with seemingly minor damage , i.e. scufs on the rocker covers, tappety on start up .
And it turned out the head had moved slightly in the impact, and the piston had caught the head .
Don't you love good news
Good news indeed Neil
If this was the case wouldn't the noise be coming from just one side ie the inflicted side. Also wouldn't the engine self destruct quite quickly when it was running. I have done a couple of 100mph runs and the noise doesn't seem to be getting worse and she's not using oil etc.
delpel said:
Noise was on one side - but i can't hear your noise, i'm on tinternet
Engines didn't destruct, run fine with just a slight tap .
tap
tao
tap
tap
tap
delpel
Registered user
Steptoe said:Noise was on one side - but i can't hear your noise, i'm on tinternet
Engines didn't destruct, run fine with just a slight tap .
tap
tao
tap
tap
tap
Neil, I know this is a bit cheeky (hey it's christmas
) butcan I phone you from my mobile
and let you listen to the noise.Would that help or shall I just take it to the experts
you could try & decide if the noise is engine (crank) speed or camshaft.
tapping will be fairly fast at tickover if piston is hitting the head & half speed if it's a valve train noise.
tapping will be fairly fast at tickover if piston is hitting the head & half speed if it's a valve train noise.
delpel
Registered user
Worst fears confounded
Well had the bike in the mechanics garden shed for the last 3 weeks and he has just phoned me up and invited me down to inspect the damage he has found. Sounds like it is crankshaft and con-rod related
So now that the denial phase is over I will have to get down to the nitty gritty of costs etc.
Will let you know what occurs, cheers for all the pearls of wisdom.
Anybody got an engine lying around?
Well had the bike in the mechanics garden shed for the last 3 weeks and he has just phoned me up and invited me down to inspect the damage he has found. Sounds like it is crankshaft and con-rod related
So now that the denial phase is over I will have to get down to the nitty gritty of costs etc.
Will let you know what occurs, cheers for all the pearls of wisdom.
Anybody got an engine lying around?
flooky
Guest
i would rather be there with a fuked bike than here with one that goes...sorry this dont help ....i like cyprus.....i hate this toilet...
Sorry to hear that delpel - been following your rebuild posts for a while now. I'll keep an eye out for a spare engine. There's a BM breaker in London who might be able to help you out - deals with couriers and salvage bikes. Bit of a wide boy but a nice enough bloke, might be able to help you out but then you run the risk of getting another duff motor. Rebuild might be the best way - you could always spend some extra cash whilst you're doing it and add some go faster engine bits
If you want to risk it, give Russ a call on 07801493053
Good luck
If you want to risk it, give Russ a call on 07801493053
Good luck
DrAlf said:If you want to risk it, give Russ a call on 07801493053
Good luck
I've known Russell for nearly 20years - so just make sure it's not an engine thats out of a bike used by courier systems
Dick Dastardly
Registered user
A while ago, i had something in my garage that sounded like a tin full of nuts and bolts.
Upon investigating it, to my surprise i found that it was indeed a tin that WAS full of nuts and bolts
Upon investigating it, to my surprise i found that it was indeed a tin that WAS full of nuts and bolts
delpel
Registered user
Progress is made.
Saw my bike today in bits on the mechanics bench. He has the left side barrel off and checked inside. Everything looks good, conrods, pistons bore wear etc. What he has found so though is some endfloat on the crankshaft. By using a wooden hammer handle he can move the crankshaft forwards and backwards sufficiently to hear it clunk when he moves it.
He was asking what year of bike the replacement alternator support (front silver) cover came from. I brought this of ebay for the princely sum of 1Euro. it was advertised as an R1150GS cover. Was there a change of cover, I thought the engine casings etc were all identical. I have looked at the MAX BMW parts fiche and noticed the R1100GS had 2 cover part numbers. Can anyone shed any light on this.
It seems to be consistant with the front end whack the engine suffered in the crash.
Any thoughts or words of wisdom (relating to this topic) would be gratefully received.
Regards
Saw my bike today in bits on the mechanics bench. He has the left side barrel off and checked inside. Everything looks good, conrods, pistons bore wear etc. What he has found so though is some endfloat on the crankshaft. By using a wooden hammer handle he can move the crankshaft forwards and backwards sufficiently to hear it clunk when he moves it.
He was asking what year of bike the replacement alternator support (front silver) cover came from. I brought this of ebay for the princely sum of 1Euro. it was advertised as an R1150GS cover. Was there a change of cover, I thought the engine casings etc were all identical. I have looked at the MAX BMW parts fiche and noticed the R1100GS had 2 cover part numbers. Can anyone shed any light on this.
It seems to be consistant with the front end whack the engine suffered in the crash.
Any thoughts or words of wisdom (relating to this topic) would be gratefully received.
Regards
