Southwest Ireland - Cork to An Líonán / Leenane / Leenaun

[Wapping]

…. Or however it is you spell it.

God willing, I hope to be back for the 2027 UKGSer gathering. Having read about the Boulogne to Cork crossing on the forum, I thought it might make a good alternative to riding across England from London to catch a ferry, for the outward leg at least.

I can see on a simple A to B Google map that it’s about four hours (280 km / 180 miles) direct from Cork to Leenane:



Add say an hour for a stop or two along the way, five hours. Whilst I haven’t looked at what time the ferry docks in Cork, let’s say it’s half a day to complete the journey. That’s the simple bit.

Now I’m wondering if I should take instead either:

A. A more indirect route, but roughly in the same direction, or

B. Set some more time aside and go via the southwest / middle-west section of the Wild Atlantic Way (WAW)

This is option A and B in a roughed together file, the purple line being my take on the Wild Atlantic Way, created from several books and websites:

I’m estimating that the Cork to Leenane route along the WAW is about 550 km or 350 miles. If I want to be a tourist (as that is what I am) let’s say two days, if I don’t dawdle at every viewpoint and bar along the way. But, maybe I should be even more of a tourist and set aside say, four days and see / experience a bit more?

I am prepared to be pragmatic about it, recognising that early September can see me in bright sunshine or, at very worse, driving rain from the Atlantic. But that’s something I can decide on in Cork. I don’t mind rain, but why go to see the sights and sites of the Atlantic coast, if all you can see is limited to a blurred vision through wetted glasses for 50 metres for two or more days? Like all routes along large bodies of water, you are rather stuck, unless you are suddenly a duck.

I guess what I’m asking is: Do I be a tourist on the WAW…. Or do I be a tourist by taking an inland route? I also guess that the obvious answers are: How long have I got? Go one way and come back the other; it’s not rocket science, mate.

 

[ChasMill]

…. Or however it is you spell it.

God willing, I hope to be back for the 2027 UKGSer gathering. Having read about the Boulogne to Cork crossing on the forum, I thought it might make a good alternative to riding across England from London to catch a ferry, for the outward leg at least.

I can see on a simple A to B Google map that it’s about four hours (280 km / 180 miles) direct from Cork to Leenane:

View attachment 537855

Add say an hour for a stop or two along the way, five hours. Whilst I haven’t looked at what time the ferry docks in Cork, let’s say it’s half a day to complete the journey. That’s the simple bit.

Now I’m wondering if I should take instead either:

A. A more indirect route, but roughly in the same direction, or

B. Set some more time aside and go via the southwest / middle-west section of the Wild Atlantic Way (WAW)

This is option A and B in a roughed together file, the purple line being my take on the Wild Atlantic Way, created from several books and websites:

View attachment 537854

I’m estimating that the Cork to Leenane route along the WAW is about 550 km or 350 miles. If I want to be a tourist (as that is what I am) let’s say two days, if I don’t dawdle at every viewpoint and bar along the way. But, maybe I should be even more of a tourist and set aside say, four days and see / experience a bit more?

I am prepared to be pragmatic about it, recognising that early September can see me in bright sunshine or, at very worse, driving rain from the Atlantic. But that’s something I can decide on in Cork. I don’t mind rain, but why go to see the sights and sites of the Atlantic coast, if all you can see is limited to a blurred vision through wetted glasses for 50 metres for two or three days? Like all routes along large bodies of water, you are rather stuck, unless you are suddenly a duck.

I guess what I’m asking is: Do I be a tourist on the WAW…. Or do I be a tourist by taking an inland route? I also guess that the obvious answers are: How long have I got? Go one way and come back the other; it’s not rocket science, mate.

If you are looking for company next year ....?

 

[landmarkjohn]

Trying to do that much of WAW in a camper even over 4 days would be pretty exhausting and long driving days. Risk taking a lot of the fun out of it.

 

[Wapping]

If you are looking for company next year ....?

Welcome, Charlie.

Whether I go by motorcycle or car is up in the air, as is the time set aside for it all, which is the biggest decider quite often. I think (at least this morning) that the purpose of the jaunt is to get to Leenane, then stay in the hotel and enjoy the event itself. But if something sensible (and hopefully fun) can be built around it, great. I quite liked Bill’s (ex call centre chimp) journey, to see ‘stuff’ along the way…. And that he was pragmatic (and arguably, kind heated) about altering his return plans.

 

[Wapping]

Trying to do that much of WAW in a camper even over 4 days would be pretty exhausting and long driving days. Risk taking a lot of the fun out of it.

Thank you.

I was wondering about that. From very little I have seen of Ireland, I have learned that it can take a while (and more) to go from A to B *. I think I have ruled out taking my camper van, as the trip’s main purpose is to get to Leenane, to stay in the hotel. I haven’t though passed up on a pipe dream of ‘camper vanning’ Ireland over a longer period at some point, taking the slow roads. But, I do need to get on with learning my Irish hisory, to make best use of that time.


* Not least, if you stop and talk to someone, the morning can be gone, before you know it. It’s what makes the place what it is.

 

[landmarkjohn]

You could split it over 2 years.

1: Cork/Kerry then Limerick to Galway on the motorway.
2: Cork to Tarbert Ferry and do the Clare coast and Galway.

I think Clare often gets overlooked and skipped but there is some beautiful Atlantic and Burren scenery in the county, worthy of a day on it's own.

 

[Wapping]

You could split it over 2 years.

Just for moment, I misinterpreted that, as a suggestion that I should take two yeas to go from Cork to Leenane. Then the light came on….

Thank you for the suggestion and the two separate ideas. That was just what I was hoping for. Doing less and seeing more, right up my street.

 

[john_aero]

You could split it over 2 years.

1: Cork/Kerry then Limerick to Galway on the motorway.
2: Cork to Tarbert Ferry and do the Clare coast and Galway.

I think Clare often gets overlooked and skipped but there is some beautiful Atlantic and Burren scenery in the county, worthy of a day on it's own.

I second this,

was going to reply with exact same answer.

Try get a few of the nice routes in before Ferry.

Molls gap
Healeys pass
Ballagisheen pass
Priests Leap

Once hit Tralee just take main road right to Tarbert Ferry (if need help or anything I am 5mins from the Ferry)

Clare side
Ferry to kilkee, Liscannon, Ballryan, Blach Head, Monks Bar then for food. Then direct to Galway

Galway to Leenaun via Maam cross & Recess.



Time is Key,

If have time try to give a long day or even 2 to do Kerry and cork before hit Ferry. Ferry up easy do in 4-5hours. Depending on what time you land in Cork will dictate how long take. I would make most of South coast before take ferry. Are you camping or hotel/B&B

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

My thoughts having done the WAW in full North to South and parts of it South to North?
Don't do it in a camper van, some of the roads are too small for you to get any pleasure out of unless you're on a bike.
Skip Kinsale to Kenmare, there's very little of interest here IMO other than Skibereen, a town full of history.
Head straight to the Beara Peninsula, base yourself somewhere local like Kenmare, be advised it's quite touristy so not particularly cheap but has plenty of decent pubs and eateries.
Base yourself here for a few days, 3 or 4, and don't limit yourself to the WAW, some of the inland passes are fabulous.
Avoid the ring of Kerry.
The Dingle Peninsula only gets interesting after Dingle town which is only any good as a toilet/food stop IMO.
As opposed the the gentleman above I saw nothing of interest scenery wise in Clare so Phil and I headed straight to Leenane from Kenmare via the Tarbert ferry which in September runs every half hour on the hour and half past. We stopped off in Ennis for a coffee and it was a nice little market town with plenty of coffee stops.
The Galway by pass is bloody awful roundabout after roundabout after roundabout.
The route from Galway to Cong was far less busy and just as pretty as the Oughterard option.

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

This is an excellent map for the WAW, it highlights the route brilliantly offering things to see along the way. Once on the route it's pretty well signposted but the map helps with planning.







You're welcome to borrow mine of course.

Don't expect to get anywhere fast if you want to enjoy the journey. I'd be surprised if I averaged as much as 20 m.p.h. when I did it properly.

Whatever route you take I'm sure you'll have a ball and Sarah I will hopefully see you there Comrade.

 

[Wapping]

Time is Key,

As ever. It’s the first question I ask of bods, asking for non-motorway routes of a thousand miles across France and Germany. It’s often something they keep secret.

I fancy staying in bars / B&B’s, simply as a safeguard against the weather. You look, now it’ll be scorching hot….. or not!

Vehicle: Assuming I still have a motorcycle, it’ll be my Himalayan 450 (none of that ‘on trend’ scooter stuff) or a car. As with the Aston Martins we encountered, it would be no great fun in an outright and very large sports car on the truly single car width (or less) tracks. Not least I think it’s a form of selfish / irresponsible transport, if you meet a local, very probably forcing them to reverse.

If I can create (or have sugggested) some half decent routes, it would perhaps be nice to take the Healey. On reasonable (in UK terms, B / French D) roads, it might be fun to cruise along?

If as people are saying, Clare / and parts of Kerry are ignored, then it lends itself to my idea of going to places that are not on every broad ‘must do’ list. I have enjoyed doing this in Germany and even in parts of France.

 

[Wapping]

Thanks everyone, comrades all!

This is just what I hoped for.

PS To my eternal shame, people talk about the provinces / counties of Ireland and I have no great idea where they are. I am going to print out a very simple political map of Ireland!

 

[Moto Bikemad]

Don't expect to get anywhere fast if you want to enjoy the journey. I'd be surprised if I averaged as much as 20 m.p.h. when I did it properly.

I concur……..
Everything takes longer than you expect, even when you expect it to take longer than you expect.

 

[Wapping]

Like Irish history, I can see that opinion is divided…. But with one clear common theme, it’s a great place.

 

[Wapping]

These are on their way to me, from the Amazon.



To my eternal shame, I have no clear idea of the precise location of the provinces / counties of Ireland. It’s time to start.

 

[Ccmp]

My thoughts having done the WAW in full North to South and parts of it South to North?
Don't do it in a camper van, some of the roads are too small for you to get any pleasure out of unless you're on a bike.
Skip Kinsale to Kenmare, there's very little of interest here IMO other than Skibereen, a town full of history.
Head straight to the Beara Peninsula, base yourself somewhere local like Kenmare, be advised it's quite touristy so not particularly cheap but has plenty of decent pubs and eateries.
Base yourself here for a few days, 3 or 4, and don't limit yourself to the WAW, some of the inland passes are fabulous.
Avoid the ring of Kerry.
The Dingle Peninsula only gets interesting after Dingle town which is only any good as a toilet/food stop IMO.
As opposed the the gentleman above I saw nothing of interest scenery wise in Clare so Phil and I headed straight to Leenane from Kenmare via the Tarbert ferry which in September runs every half hour on the hour and half past. We stopped off in Ennis for a coffee and it was a nice little market town with plenty of coffee stops.
The Galway by pass is bloody awful roundabout after roundabout after roundabout.
The route from Galway to Cong was far less busy and just as pretty as the Oughterard option.

View attachment 537880

Hi there, just to correct your geography, the Beara penninsula is between Kinsale and Kenmare. I would contend that there are some stunning roads west of skibbereen including Dunmanus bay , crookhaven, mizen , sheeps head etc. Did some of those roads lately and often bring visitors around them .

 

[Aidan1150]

It may be useful to know that the Hibernia ship does not dock in Cork city Richard but in the deep water harbour out in Ringsakiddy which is about 25 minutes from the city centre. If you were going to Kinsale for example, you'd go via Carrigaline avoiding the city altogether.

Hibernia

 

[Wapping]

It may be useful to know that the Hibernia ship does not dock in Cork city Richard but in the deep water harbour out in Ringsakiddy which is about 25 minutes from the city centre. If you were going to Kinsale for example, you'd go via Carrigaline avoiding the city altogether.

Hibernia

Thank you, Aidan.

That is very useful to know. It’s a bit like Ryan Air’s flight to Stockholm, landing…. Um….. nowhere near Stockholm. There again, the Caen ferry is not in Caen, as my friend discovered one morning.

 

[landmarkjohn]

Couple pics of Clare. It is less busy than Cork/Kerry and that can add to it.

 

[Fireblade]

Thank you, Aidan.

That is very useful to know. It’s a bit like Ryan Air’s flight to Stockholm, landing…. Um….. nowhere near Stockholm. There again, the Caen ferry is not in Caen, as my friend discovered one morning.

The ferry currently arrives in Cork (Ringaskiddy) at 1230.
There’s no fast road West from Cork. You’re looking at about 1.5 hours to Skibbereen, nearer 2 to Bantry. I tend to take the N71 coastal route as it’s more scenic and in better condition than the alternatives.

The SW corner is lovely, Mizen Head, Beara, all worth a look. You could base yourself in Bantry for a couple of days and do day rides from there, then continue Northwards.