Spain in October

[MartinB]

So, this year's tour was to be in Spain and having missed the best weather of the summer we decided that other than the ferry to Santander, we wouldn't book anything, take the camping gear and wing it. Just follow the sun around Spain and generally just bimble about and see where we ended up. We set sail from Portsmouth on 12th October and had a silky smooth crossing, unfortunatley with VERY little to do for 24Hrs.

The ferry, turned out to be going to Bilbao because Brittany ferries are looking at doing the Bilbao route next year so were checking out the port and docking details. Anyway we headed pretty much due south towards Burgos and because it was after 1pm we kept to the motorways so that we weren't setting up camp too late. We ended up in Castrojeriz, a small village at the foot of a tall hill topped with castle ruins. After 16.5 Euros and ''camp were you like'' we grabbed a shower (nice and hot) got some food and a beer in the small campsite cafe, checked some e-mails and the weather for the next day and got off to bed.

The pics here are:
Us posing at Portsmouth ferry port (that's Dad on the left)
The view from the camp site in Castrojeriz on the first night
An early morning view looking back down from the castle ruins
Our first night camping in Spain.

 

[MartinB]

Day 2

It got cold in the night, down to 2Deg. and it didn't get light until after 8am. anyway we decided to have a little ride up to the castle ruins as the guy at the campsite said we could ride up there. So we dropped the panniers off left the tents drying (overnight dew) and did some gentle off road work. The resulting picture is in my first post.

We headed out of the village and kept off the main roads towards Palencia then Valladolid. We picked up the CL 610 to Medina Del Campo, and were rewarded with brand new jet black tarmac all the way through Peneranda and for another 20 miles or so. It was like they laid the road just for us, no traffic great scenery and clear blue skies. Happy days.

It appears that the Spanish workers got behind scedule and hadn't finished the bloody road by the time we got there! suddenly the road turned into a narrow bumpy back road with half prepared sections on both sides ready for tarmac, but NOT finished. You'd have thought they didn't know we were coming So nothing for it, I just had to ride these new roads before anyone else, so fully loaded I dropped onto the unprepared road for as much as I dare before we got turffed off 'our' road and on a diversion. No big deal, the next village supplied a beer stop and a Serano ham Bochadillo (French stick type thing)

The temp. was hovering around 8-9 Deg. all morning, then while we rode south west on the N110 we dropped over the edge of the valley down a fantastic twisty section of road that lasted about 6 miles taking us down to the valley floor, switch back hairpin bends, smooth tarmac and rising temps. when we got the bottom it was 23 Deg.

We started looking for a camp site and ended up riding back up over the ridge into the next valley to the village of Jaradillo, where the first 2 site were closed, the third was open, we were the only people staying all bar a Spanish family in a caravan and were relived off 18 Euros for the night. So a quick shower and back into the village for the evening. The restaurant at the capmsite wasn't open so having ride to the village and back meant no beer tonight.

Still we had a great days riding, got some food and tucked in for the night about 10pm

I've got my pictures out of sequence, so no pics from day 2. I'll post some from day 3 when get a chance to write it up.

 

[MartinB]

Day 3 - Friday 15th October

N roads all day. We rose to a stunning sunrise (pic below) all packed up we rode East from Jarandillo on the CL501, just a few miles out and we pass a couple of Police bikes going in the other way, a couple more miles and they've doubled back and have cruised up behind us. At this point the normal Oh shit what did we do runs through my head. Not speeding, can't think of anything else we might have done, then they jump in between us on the road, now I'm thinking here it comes wait for the blues, get ready to pull over and were did I put my insurance docs ? Then they both indicate and pull off to turn around ! Maybe just curious I suppose. 2 foreign bikes loaded to the hilt in October, probably a bit unusual given the time of year, who knows.

We traverse the side of the valley until we get to Arenas de S. Pedro where we turn south on the N502 again in beautiful sunshine and climbing temperatures, we get roads that change from mountain passes in pine forests to something you'd expect to find in America (pic 2) Spain seems to have such a variation of landscapes that you just don't expect to find, it keeps you guessing as to what's coming next and so far it hasn't disapointed. Further south we ride a steady pace all day enjoying the scenery and taking in all that inland Spain has to offer. Pic 4 is an island in the middle of a damned lake, the land joins one side then the road goes completely around the island (one way) and over the bridge to carry on south, just the sort of engineering solution the brits would think of

We camp at a site I found on the internet before we left and when we got there it was open ! result again we get good service helpful people and some good food (Mixed salad starter, Steak & chips and a bottle red ) seeming that they opened the restaurant just for us we thought 44 Euros all up was pretty good.

As you can see from the last pic, the rain clouds threatened above the camp site but likely never spilt a drop on us.

 

[GS TRV]

keep it coming

 

[Wataboutya]

Craicin report. Love the bit about the 'damned lake'! Just gotta hate those things don't you....lol

 

[MartinB]

Inspired by Oisin

Just a bit of back ground info. I've been on bikes since I was 7 years old thanks to dad. He regocnised very early on that I had an obsession with anything on 2 wheels and decided that if I was as head strong as he was, I'd go and get myself a bike at 16 wether he liked it or not, so he took the opinion that I'd be safer with his help and blessing than without. My first bike was a lovely little Yamaha TY80.
Since then I've not been away from bikes for more than a year or 2 until I realised that I was riding sports bike like a burk, beyond my skill levels and after a couple of close calls got out with my licence and my life !
That didn't last long (the afore mentioned couple of years) So, when I got back to bikes it had to be something big, heavy and lazy. Something I wouldn't want to ride too fast ! Honda Africa Twin was the answer, then a Varadero and now I'm on my 2nd GSA.

I did quite a bit of touring with dad starting on the Varadero which has lead to a whole new dimension in my relationship with him, not many people get to travel like this with there old man, and it really has brought us closer together over the last 3 or 4 years. A great 'side effect' of doing these trips and all dating back more than 30 years to a kid and his dad on a piece of waste ground learning to ride a motorcycle.

Fast forward to May this year, and I stumble accross a thread here on the forum by a chap called Oisin from Ireland riding has GSA around the world, solo. I like lots of other people followed his trip, reading his regular ride reports and seeing pictures from far away places that I could only dream of going to. At first I didn't get why you would want tour on your own let alone to ride around the world solo. But the more I read, the more it made sense. Here's the link it's fantastic reading.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225660

This trip was originally going to be a solo journey around Spain, me and the tent absolutley inspired by Oisin's ride reports. Now I won't pretend to have the to ability to share my experiences in the same way that our Irish friend can, his write ups are so well written and he expresses the moment so well that you feel that you know the guy and almost that your travelling with him some of you will have spotted the spelling and grammer errors, for those of you that haven't spotted them, there deliberate mistakes anyway

Oh, his first trip 'That I may die roaming' is here
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556042


My plans didn't sit well with family and friends when they heard what I wanted to do, the usual concerns of what if's and how will you ? etc. and dad seemed more than a little put out by the idea, although he'd never tell me. So I extended an invite, get a tent and come with me ! and here we are.

Day 4
We woke to an symphony of K9, dogs barking everywhere or so it seemed. The campsite was on a mountain side surrounded by woods and yet when one dog started I think it woke up the Spanish version of Battersy Dogs home just off the campsite !
But the weather was good again, the restaurant was re-opened for us and breakfast (coffee and toast) set us back 3 Euros 20cents. Good start.
We had planned to have an easier day and make our way to Carzorla, the slut nav had a campsite marked so we'd head there.
We rode down the N432 around Corboba and stuck to the N road towards Granada. This part of Spain is Olive Oil central, literally all day the hill sides were covered in Olive groves as far as you could see, we even bought some local produce at at petrol station 2 Euro's for some of the best olive oil I've tasted . We turned left at Alcuadete routed through Jaen then cut cross country via Jimena, Bedmar and Jodar to get to Carzorla.

We stopped for lunch in Bedmar, the normal smoke filled bar full of locals, and started the routine of very broken Spanish and no English in return, but one way or another you get fed and watered. And we got offered a bike swap by an old chap knocking on about 85 years old, he just about got the point accross that he wanted the GSA as a swap for his ....... I don't know what it was except that it was almost as old as he was ! We had a laugh said goodbye and cracked on.

The campsite slut nav sent us to was closed so we rode up into the town (pic 1) and found the town square (pic 2), we asked around about camping with no joy, including a french couple in a motorhome who we passed earlier. So it's mid afternoon, the sun is out, it's warm and we'd got a beer. Nothing for it. HOTEL ! I know it was a cop out and I know Oisin wouldn't have given up that easily, but the though of some creature comforts got the better of me.
Carzorla is stunning, a real old world town, obviously a Spanish tourist spot and I'm miffed that while walking around that evening I left the camera in the hotel, so no photo's from one of the most beautifull places we visited

But here's another link
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cazorla

 

[MartinB]

Carzorla pictures

I had a brain wave

OK, I left the camera in the hotel but I'd forgotten about the pics on the mobile. So here they are.

Not as good as the camera, but better than nothing !
The narrow street is one of a maze of live roads, and the locals don't seem to slow down if your walking in a street that they're driving along. You just have to find a doorway to step into or just breath in and trust there judgement

 

[MartinB]

Day 5 - More creature comforts

We decided to head to Calpe today, Dad has a villa there and while the weather was on our side we'd take the opportunity to get a couple of jobs done on the house, we sort of had it in mind all along but it really depended on the sun, if it was raining in Eastern Spain the jobs would have to wait.

Having done 2 laps of the labyrinth type streets in carzorla and after totally confused slut nav, we found our way north to Villacarrillo where we picked up the N322 towards Albacete. Just a few miles out we ride through Arroyo del Ojanco, now this was one of those towns that must have grown along the length of the road through it, you know the type, one main street with not much either side, the road just runs in one end out the other with very little to grab your attention. Except, for a couple of guys cooking under a tilt behind a van (pic 1) We double back and have breakfast by the roadside, they had a vat of oil over a burner and were cooking a batter swirled into a spiral shape, kind of like a donut mix but without the sugar, just a few seconds each side and 1 Euro each

The N322 was stunning, as the temperature rose the sun burned through the early morning mist to give us a beautiful Sunday ride. This was obviously a popular road with the locals because we passed bikes going in the other direction all the way to Albacete probably the best part of 60 miles ! Freshly fed and enjoying the sunshine we were treated to long constant radius corners one leading to the next for miles at a time. I was flicking the ESA into sport and cranked the bike in to the corners, comparing the sat nav feed with the view of the corner entry. It just flowed all morning, fast without taking risks, the bike just soaked it all up. The fact that it was loaded up didn't seem to matter at all. If you knew these roads you could seriously embarrass sport bikes here, just like at home

I hadn't realised the altitude of Albacete (980 metres according to Garmin) The temperature dropped back to 9 Deg. and the wind seemed to have a real bite. We stopped for fuel but decided to press on hoping to warm up as got back towards sea level.

Pictures 2,3 and 4 were taken on route, just on the straight bits. I was far to busy enjoying the twisty bits and I was reaching a long way into my rather small bag of skill to be taking photo's in the turns !

Not wanting to stay on the motorways any longer than needed, we routed up to Alcoy then took the CV70 to Gaudalest. Again lovely roads and no traffic all the way. There is a new road from Gaudalest to Benidorm another stretch of wide smooth tarmac. Gaudalest is an olde world village pirched on a mountain top over looking a bright turquoise blue lake. It must be attracting coach loads of brit tourists to justify a road like this, but what do we care when you get a treat like this. From Benidorm we use the N332 coast road up to Calpe and bimble round to the villa (pic 5) and no we didn't swim, the water looks nice but it was bloody freezing.

Like I said, I like my creature comforts and made the most of them for the next couple of days.

 

[MartinB]

A change of plan

So, rested and relaxed in Calpe we started thinking about our route home and more to the point checking the weather reports (It's Monday 18th). All the reports said the same for once and ALL forecast heavy rain for the whole of northern Spain from Thursday onwards, we were originally due back at Santender for the return ferry on Sat 23rd.

So, we decided to make a dash for home through France and try to beat the weather to Calais. We set of at first light Tuesday morning, this was going to be a proper numb bum ride to crunch the miles out and get as far north as soon as possible.
We headed out of Calpe on the N332 and up the 'Calpe Bends' as I call them. A quick blast, with the sun breaking over the horizon over my right shoulder, one of those goose bump moments that you just don't get driving a car

The route for the day is simple North to Tortosa hang a left up to Zaragoza, Pamplona and onto to San Sebastian and the french border. We keep the sunshine all day until late afternoon, with the clouds gathering in the distance it looks like were riding straight into the bad weather. We manage 570 miles and call it a day short of Bordeax, and as we check in to the Campanile the drizzle starts.

Pics are up around the French Spanish border, a few nice flowing sections interupted by tunnels (pic 2)

 

[MartinB]

A day to remember

The drizzle kept up most of the night but eased off as we had breakfast (still in the dark) We fuelled and get going about 8am and into heavy traffic around Bordeaux ring road. The sky is clear in the distance and an hour later were back to sunshine and dry roads.

North of Bordeaux we turn right and route via Angouleme to Poitiers just to break up the motorway slog a bit. We got off the main drag looking for a coffee stop in Descartes I think. The bikes seem to attract more attention here than anywhere weve been so far, then after coffee we get refused fuel in the garage opposite the cafe. I'm not sure if they'd run out or didn't want to sell it to the Brits
Just about a mile from the town centre we find a supermarket fuel station and after a few dirty looks from the locals we brim the tanks and get going again.
We had seen some of the reports about the strikes and fuel shortages before we left Spain, so we were already carrying a 5Ltr can of petrol in our top boxes, just in case!
We crack on nicely all morning and I start thinking that a spot of lunch in Le Mans would be good. I'd just about got the sat nav to re-route us onto the famous Mulsanne straight when I get a tyre pressure warning light flashing on the dash. REAR PUNCTURE. BOLLOCKS

We pull into a farmers entrance and break out the repair kit. I've been carrying this kit around for the best part of 5 years, now it's time to find out if these things work !
Less than 30 mins later were back on the road. The kit was easy to use, so much so I wasn't sure I'd actually plugged the hole. (Picture of Quick Fit France) The only small grip was that there are 4 repair plugs in the kit with an CO2 canister for each, we had to use 3 canisters to get 1.2 Bar in the tyre. But we were mobile again so I didn't really care. We rode the 25Km to the next services and topped up the tyre and the tanks (no shortages here)

I can honestly say the tyre pressure control system works very well and while it was a slow deflation rather than a blow out, it probably saved a scary moment at the very least if not full blown 80Mph on my arse moment !

You'd think that would do you for the day, NO, as we travel north the fuel shortages are getting worse to the point that people are queing off the forecourts out onto the motorways ! We start to ease the pace a bit trying to save a litre or 2.
Rouen throws up the next problem. The traffic backs up and grinds to a halt, we filter through the traffic and start to see thick black smoke ahead, I'm thinking Oh this must be a big shunt if somethings on fire !
When we get the front of the queue I'm confronted with about 100 protesters burning tyres in the road. Er, what now ? The first guy to see us raises his hand to stop us but then another 3 or 4 beckon us forward. Not sure what's about to happen I stay where I am. So the protesters come to me ! Oh shit ! Now I've got a couple of these guys each side of me all barking orders at me so fast that my 3 words of french can't keep up !
They make a gap in the line of the blockade and wave us between the burning Pirelli's. I'm not sure if they've seen the number plates and so I don't know if things are going to kick off because were British or not, I decide that once I'm moving I'm not stopping, so without a clear view through the smoke I give the horn a quick double press wave and go for it.
We burst through the smoke onto stretch of empty road except for the traffic jam queing in the other direction. PHEW ! ! !

I had it all under control, I wasn;t worried

We got to Abbeville and holed up in an Ibis for the night, another good meal to celebrate surviving the day finishes us off.

GOODNIGHT

 

[doyle]

As you say,it must be very special going touring with your father.I would imagine that a different relationship altogether would develop than perhaps normal. Dig the number plates by the way

 

[brassmonkey001]

Nice one.
How lucky you are to have had such a great experience with your father.
I never got that kind of opportunity with mine and now he's got Alzheimers I never will.

 

[Nico]

Great report, I have done Spain a few times and it is great, especially in the spring or autumn. I also go touring quite often with my dad, at least once a year. First trip we did was actually the Pyrinees in 1998

 

[MartinB]

The run home

Firstly, thanks for the reply's and coments. This is the first report I've done and it's good to know that people like reading about my experiences.
The relationship I have with my father is fantastic, and over the years we have spent more time doing different things together than anyone else I know. It sounds cheesy, but he really is one of my best mates

The run home would prove to be much more straight forward than yesterday. Again we rise early, but we find the bikes covered with a layer of frost
When we set off for Spain the last thing that entered my head was frosty mornings and sub zero temperatures. However, the frosty start has been the result of clear skies overnight and yet again were treated to a stunning sun rise (pics 1 & 2), and other than a damp start yesterday we complete our fisrt ever 'dry' bike tour.
The temperature stays below freezing all the way to Calais, so with an extra layer under the cordura and the heated grips on flat out we check in for the crossing back to Blighty. The facilities at Calais never seem to improve, under the huge sign signalling food and drink you still find nothing but smelly toilets and a couple vending machines in the lobby that serve the worst coffee I've tasted in a long. long time. Actually since the last time I was here about 3 years ago !

We get prime position on the car deck, front row with a view over the bow. (see the pic coming into Dover)

We have another 120 miles to get home to the Essex / Suffolk border and to re-adjust to british roads and traffic.
Another tour comes to an end, lots of new story's to tell and lots of new roads have passed under our tyres. A few new experiences gained, including camping on a bike, touring without a plan, fixing punctures by the roadside and breaking through a strike blockade !

we get home safe and sound and as always the following day feels very strange to not throw your leg over the bike. Already ideas for next year are filling our minds, lots of options, from more of Spain and Europe to Route 66 and the Grand Canyon, none will be ruled out until we count the pennies and whittle down our choices to find the best tour we can think of for 2011.

Thanks for reading

Ride safe

Martin